Bias tapes are nice. When using the straight cut for some curves where you get a lot of puckers, glue the center of one end first, then pull the tape around the curve stretching the center of the tape. There will be fewer puckers at the edges.i wasnt good at doing some of the sharper corners on the control surfaces and wished i would have tried a bias tape instead of a straight one, fought some wrinkels, how do some of you guys feel about bias (cross weaved)tapes? they a lot easier?
i wasnt good at doing some of the sharper corners on the control surfaces and wished i would have tried a bias tape instead of a straight one, fought some wrinkels, how do some of you guys feel about bias (cross weaved)tapes? they a lot easier?
If you use a bias tape around a corner, just be aware that the width will shrink considerably. Otherwise, it lays down nicely.Make sure you waste a bunch of it and dont leave the sewn seam. But they are great for going around corners
i wasnt good at doing some of the sharper corners on the control surfaces and wished i would have tried a bias tape instead of a straight one, fought some wrinkels, how do some of you guys feel about bias (cross weaved)tapes? they a lot easier?
My daughter is the same way, she hates bias tapes. Me, I'm lazy and like them.Haven't used a bias tape in 30 years. If you anchor one end and work it slow and even, you can shrink some incredible tight corners. If you're in a hurry, it's not going to turn out so well.
John
I would highly recommend using a digital iron and heat (air) gun. I am using them on my current build and past. The digital iron is basically a ski wax iron and works great. The heat gun allows the tip of the gun to be as close to the surface as you want. This works great for working out wrinkles in the tapes.
I would stay away from the heat gun; I don't recommend its use when I teach. The digital iron is a must and allows very controlled temps on the fabric. When working out a stubborn wrinkle it would be way too easy to overheat the surrounding fabric and render it non-airworthy. Look up heat guns and ceconite and you will see it is not recommended; same as with Stewart Systems. https://www.conaircraft.com/aboutceconite
As John said, apply a bit more tug on the fabric and take it slow with the iron and you can put fabric on a pretty tight curve without any difficulty.
Marty57
Here are some photos of the last fuselage my daughter and I covered. We find the more you cover the more tricks you figure out and you do a better job the next time. This one does not have a headliner so I used clear Polybrush in that area so the pink tinted Polybrush wouldn't show from the cockpit.
View attachment 63770
View attachment 63771
notice how steve didnt put the round inspection covers grommets under the stabs and has a belley pan for access at the backend, i wish i would have done that.
You may want to do a second layer of perimeter tapes. Rib tapes are encapsulated under the perimeter tape; same on the wings, ailerons, elevators, etc. On the two pictures I attached, you can see how the rib tapes are under the perimeter tapes. On the aileron, it is pretty clear, in this picture, that the end of the rib tape needs to be under the final tape, not on top. Perimeter tapes are always the last tapes applied. No need for bias tapes on that gentle curve; regular tapes will shrink around that curve very nicely. And yes, this is in my kitchen.My first fabric job. Surface #1 was the elevator. Used bias tape on the long curved trailing edge. The rest were straight tape. As mentioned before, after tacking, the ripples can be ironed out at 250deg and then glued. Just finished taping one set of elevator/stabilizer. View attachment 63788
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