Oops. We were probably supposed to do that.
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Oops. We were probably supposed to do that.
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The heavens declare the glory of God; the skies proclaim the work of His hands. Psalms 19:1DENNY liked this post
Really coming together.
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The heavens declare the glory of God; the skies proclaim the work of His hands. Psalms 19:1
NX1PADENNY liked this post
Yes. Zero thrustline built in. I think the rear of the engine is lowered. The firewall is not only wider, it is deeper too. The square instrument panel makes the corners look more kinked. Especially looking from a low angle. The kink at the top center of the firewall is very minor.
Paul's two 4 place Cubs had a very noticeable difference in the cowl lines. What I understood is that the black/yellow one has a zero thrustline mount and the black/red one does not.
I considered rounding the corners of the panel to improve looks of the boot cowl but I'm glad I resisted. The 172 windshield fits that square-ish shape with no trimming
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Back on the Cub for the next 6 weeks.
Rebuilt engine on today. Everything fits.
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Looking for one sealed front lift strut if anyone knows of a good spare somewhere. They are 4-6 weeks backordered from Univair.
Lower cowl progress
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The heavens declare the glory of God; the skies proclaim the work of His hands. Psalms 19:1jrussl thanked for this post
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The heavens declare the glory of God; the skies proclaim the work of His hands. Psalms 19:1
How can you build the bottom cowl with out the lower boot cowl on to hold the firewall stiff? I always have to have the boot cowl attached to hold the cowl channel attach points where they need to be…
There would be some shrinking or stretching involved. A bit difficult to explain from a distance. Start with a piece of old cereal box cardboard held in the position and angle of the finished lip. Draw a pencil line on the cardboard along the edge of the cowl opening. The pencil line will be your bend line on the metal. Trace that shape on the aluminum leaving enough material for riveting but not too much as you need to move metal. Then decide whether the portion which is to be riveted needs to be stretched or shrunk. I'd initially say stretched. Then it's a matter of working the metal until the fit is where you want it. Alternatively you could make cuts midway between the rivet locations and just form each section individually. If you make cuts, be certain to drill a hole at the end of the cut first to relieve stresses. If you don't drill the stress relief, a crack likely will start once you are flying. It's better to try to form the metal without the cuts. But either way will provide the results. A crack could still start even with the relief hole.
Stretching can be done with a stretcher, a flat section of a bead roller or a hammer on a flat bucking bar. Metal working takes time and practice.
NX1PA
Here is how I did the cooling lip when I built a new lower cowl for my Dad's Clipper. Was over thinking it and asked Nelson Ezell how he would do it. He was a sheet metal magician. Almost 20 years and still no cracks. https://www.shortwingpipers.org/foru...he-Bottom-Cowl
It uses a wider engine mount as the fuselage is wider in the front where the mount attaches.
I don't care who you are, that's some nice looking workmanship!
MTV
The certified 4 place uses a dynafocal mount but I wanted to use the conical mount O-360 we already had so I had Steve Furjesi weld me up a conical version. It fits well but I'm concerned about the upper tube being long and unsupported. It is probably twice as long a lever as on the stock mount. We are planning to reinforce it for peace of mind...even a C-150 has small tubes that connect and triangulate the upper mount points to each other and to the lower ones
Thanks Skywagon and Steve. I see now how the lip could be made without stretching or shrinking. I started with a straight strip of aluminum, that was my problem.
All the rest of the cowl workmanship is Jonathan's. He is turning into a decent metal man.
Big thanks to Lycon. One of their employees is a long time friend and mission aviation guy. He and Lycon teamed up to donate $10K worth of new parts for our engine. A real blessing. It should be better than ever with new ported and polished Lycoming cylinders and new cam.
Unfortunately the Cub is on the back burner again. I'm up in Michigan to support my 34 year old sister (mother of two) who has aggressive brain cancer. Prayers are appreciated.
DJ![]()
The heavens declare the glory of God; the skies proclaim the work of His hands. Psalms 19:1
So the original 4 place STC required you to buy a dynafocal engine mount?
We are building E-AB. Maybe Gabe will answer that.
The heavens declare the glory of God; the skies proclaim the work of His hands. Psalms 19:1
So the instructions allow the STC installer to fabricate the parts or the installer must buy the parts from the STC holder? Does Airframes now hold this STC? Seems like Sean told me that but I could be misremembering.
The STC includes a bunch of drawings to either fabricate your own new parts (such as the fuselage and engine mount) or have someone build them for you. Airframes holds a PMA directed towards the Sullivan STC to manufacture these parts.
Steve Pierce thanked for this post
Wing root fairings are a lot harder than they look! I'm happy with the final result in aluminum.
Not so sure about the front pieces that wrap around the windshield. We raised the incidence 3/8" at the front spar and it created a challenge with the windshield fairing. I figured we could do them in fiberglass but I'm not convinced that I'm getting the mold good enough to produce a good part. After the expanding foam I spread some drywall putty on there to sand.
Advice welcome.![]()
The heavens declare the glory of God; the skies proclaim the work of His hands. Psalms 19:1Crash, Jr. liked this post
There was someone in the UK Auster Club talking about using the so called duct tape to make a fairing. I am battling with the starboard one on my Auster, I cannot get it back on after the re-cover. I like your idea - I wonder how well it will work
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'There can be no liberty unless there is economic liberty".
Margaret Thatcher
I played around with optimizing an aluminum fairing. Looks like a little bit of shrinking on the top of the wing leading edge might be all it needs. Fits tight on the underside of the wing.
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The heavens declare the glory of God; the skies proclaim the work of His hands. Psalms 19:1
The fairing looks great, like everything else you have done. What is on the aluminum where the fairing meets the windshield?
Thanks Brian
Some rubber molding from Spruce
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The heavens declare the glory of God; the skies proclaim the work of His hands. Psalms 19:1
Cub project got lonely in Georgia by itself.
The new digs are a little less deluxe but quite adequate.
13C, central Michigan.
Any Michigan Supercubbers on here?
Still unpacking but excited for forward progress soon. Paint is done so things can start going together permanently.Attachment 66113
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The heavens declare the glory of God; the skies proclaim the work of His hands. Psalms 19:1JeffP thanked for this post
Probably better temps in Michigan vs Georgia this time of year.![]()
Shhh. How close are you to moving into the A/C?
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The heavens declare the glory of God; the skies proclaim the work of His hands. Psalms 19:1
Michigan has been great! One neighbor has a J-2 and J-3. Another has a PA-11 on floats. The local DPE loaned me gear with 26 GYs (his PA-18 is on amphibs) and everybody else is really great.
Tail is on, and rigged. Glass is all in
Loaner gear went on today. We are finally getting some stuff together permanently.
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Starting to look like an airplane
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The heavens declare the glory of God; the skies proclaim the work of His hands. Psalms 19:1Crash, Jr. liked this post
Seats are done thanks to Charlie Aileron.
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Wings on for real.
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The heavens declare the glory of God; the skies proclaim the work of His hands. Psalms 19:1
My Javron tanks have automobile vented caps from the local auto supply store. 900 hours, and not an issue.
I would call the place you got the caps from and send them the picture, see what they say. Is the proper thickness gasket on the cap? That would change the rotation needed for proper seal but a thicker gasket may not allow enough rotation for a proper seal/stability. I would also consider heating the middle section of the upright tube and adjust the alignment to face forward. Make a mark on the base for position you want while they are on the tank then rotate to proper alignment. Some auto caps are not vented so be careful.
DENNY
Put a appropriately sized punch in the vent and with the cap securely held twist into the proper angle. Has worked for small changes for me. Other option is to cut and weld the snorkel back on.
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