Replacing/Repairing a PA-12 cockpit floor
- Thread starter Philly5G
- Start date
TurboBeaver
Registered User
Northern Maine
It is possible but remember the heel brake pedals are connected under neath the front boards and are sandwiched around tubes; so they have to be installed with two people; one laying under the bootcowl: that is preferably "double jointed"!
The rudder pedals with need to come out which involves
cutting holes in bottom panel of the bootcowl;unless you are unriveting the whole boot cowl ?........ And even with holes cut; it's sorta tricky to get them and the springs wrestled back into place.:x It's certainly a BIG job to change it out, if you attempt it make sure you have good clearance on heel pad posts or they will bind........ The master clyinder spring will
Not be able to pull the interconnect rods back, that will lead to a dragging brake which can lead to big problem?
Good luck if you tackle it.
E
The rudder pedals with need to come out which involves
cutting holes in bottom panel of the bootcowl;unless you are unriveting the whole boot cowl ?........ And even with holes cut; it's sorta tricky to get them and the springs wrestled back into place.:x It's certainly a BIG job to change it out, if you attempt it make sure you have good clearance on heel pad posts or they will bind........ The master clyinder spring will
Not be able to pull the interconnect rods back, that will lead to a dragging brake which can lead to big problem?
Good luck if you tackle it.
E
55-PA18A
SPONSOR
Dillingham, Alaska
How long are your arms and do you have an extra elbow in each ?
Sounding like a resounding NO then!!!
Ive noticed the floor to the starboard and just behind the rear brake/rudder pedal giving a little when I get in, hasn’t got worse in the 3 years of ownership but I’m aware of it - what about putting a stiffening board on top of the floor there? and what suggested (thin as poss) material if yes?
Thanks
P
Ive noticed the floor to the starboard and just behind the rear brake/rudder pedal giving a little when I get in, hasn’t got worse in the 3 years of ownership but I’m aware of it - what about putting a stiffening board on top of the floor there? and what suggested (thin as poss) material if yes?
Thanks
P
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
Can you wiggle a small mirror through a hole with a light to see if the wood is cracked? To stiffen from the top you could glue on a piece of 1/8" multi ply birch plywood. Perhaps there is a hobby shop in England where you can find a piece?
The thin multi-ply birch is very strong. So when sandwiched with what you have it should solve your issue.
The thin multi-ply birch is very strong. So when sandwiched with what you have it should solve your issue.
Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
I have repaired cracked floor boards around the brake pedals with an aluminum doubler.
Using a repair piece sounds perfect and a LOT easier!!!! I can get 3.6mm birch plywood and obviously aluminium sheet. The aluminium should be a thinner option (would thickness do you use @Steve?) but which gives the most "firm" feeling I wonder? and is the aluminium also glued to the original floor, or screwed to it?
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
While the aluminum does a good job and makes a good scuff plate, the only grip it has is through the screws. A glued on piece of plywood is attached over 100% of it's surface essentially thickening and stiffening the existing plywood floor.
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
Do both sides, it will look like it belongs there.
Makes sense, thanks!! The floor has been painted at some point in the distant past and there are also some traces of old carpet tape glue. If I glue with PVA do I need to remove all the paint down to bare wood?
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
That's outside of my pay grade. I would assume so for most of it anyway.
If you are doing just the rear floor board, I don’t recall that being too bad a job. I believe turbobeaver was describing the front floorboard. He is 100% correct on that one. I did my rear floorboard a few years back and it wasn’t that bad. As a matter of fact think that I still have it somewhere in my hangar. I’m in the middle of a rebuild and I’m replacing both floorboards.
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Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org
Mikey
FRIEND
Everett, WA
I did both front and rear floor boards
many years ago, but managed to do it by myself
and it was with the fabric on. Did pull the bungee fairings
and side panels aft of boot cowl. It wasn’t fun,
but it was doable.
believe I used 1/4” marine grade plywood, w 3/4” (or so) stiffners
on underside to match the old ones. Finished off both sides w urethane.
Still going strong.
many years ago, but managed to do it by myself
and it was with the fabric on. Did pull the bungee fairings
and side panels aft of boot cowl. It wasn’t fun,
but it was doable.
believe I used 1/4” marine grade plywood, w 3/4” (or so) stiffners
on underside to match the old ones. Finished off both sides w urethane.
Still going strong.
Wow!! Thanks Mikey and sorry for the long reply!! - I ony just saw your post. So you managed to replace the rear and front floor boards WITHOUT taking the fabric off!!!!! Great work!! Have you got the double jointed arms with 2 elbows mentioned above, or did you have to do a lot of jiggling and use of mirrors and flexible tools etc? 
RaisedByWolves
FRIEND
Tx
You can always cut holes in the fabric. I have a supercub in and had to replace the front floorboards. Ended up pulling the engine and boot cowl. Have to change the front gear fittings too so the rear boards came out as well. This was on a supercub though.
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TurboBeaver
Registered User
Northern Maine
I think realistically it will work out faster to simply bite the bullet, cut two holes in lower boot cowl, to get this done. Or like Tom did completely undo the boot cowl. But it is a labor intensive project no matter how you tackle it
Best of luck....
E
Best of luck....
E
