Panel Help- AV-30? Other? Nothing?

Web - Re post #85

I have been in contact with Uavionix about a remote magnetometer for the AV30 after reading this

https://uavionix.com/uavionix-annou...netometer-support-for-av-30-e-panel-displays/

I wanted to know if and when one would be certfied - the reply was this

"certified by FAA any day now so good for an N reg if you have it. For a G reg we are talking some months"

Frank

wireweinie said:

The AV-30's magnetometer is optional and is built in (i.e. not capable of being mounted remotely). This means it WILL be subject to magnetic interference in the panel area. And since it's mounted inside of a ferrous tube cage, you will need to do some checking to see if it will point accurately. The most accurate check would be using a compass, outside of the aircraft, to line up the fuselage center line with 0º/180º and 90º/270º while the tail is raised to flight level position.

Web

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Thanks Frank. That's good news from µAvionix. My opinion is that all aircraft should use a remote mount flux gate for any magnetic instruments. The remote mount allows you to find the best place, with respect to magnetic interference, to mount the gate, in order to get the best accuracy from the mag instruments. With switches, breakers, bus bars, and most of the wiring in or passing through the panel area, that's about the worst place to mount any kind of compass. Most of the older Cubs up here used a remote compass with the flux gate mounted out near a wing tip (remember the larger square inspection panel? That was for the flux gate). Those were about the only magnetic instruments that I found to be accurate. The flux gate was away from heavy wiring, charging system, and ferrous metals, which improves it's function.

Web

And when you run the power to that remote fluxgate, run the ground back twisted around the power several feet to eliminate any inductance from the power wire.

Or use shielded wire, with the shield as the ground.

Web

skywagon8a said:

And when you run the power to that remote fluxgate, run the ground back twisted around the power several feet to eliminate any inductance from the power wire.

Click to expand...

I'd like to add to this good advice....Also try to run the magnetometer wires away from your strobe/Nav light wires. For example, I ran my Nav/Strobe wiring along the rear spar and the Magnetometer wiring along the front spar. The lower the amp draw the less the Nav/Strobe wiring can will influence stuff, so therefor, LED lights will be less of an influencer than a traditional neon bulb strobe set up. Garmin wanted a 3' separation.

A basic electricity point: magnetism is produced by the current flow in a wire, NOT by the voltage applied. I know, I know, it takes voltage to push amps. That is correct. But until there is a flow of current there will be no magnetic field formed around the wire. For example if you routed a heavy wire near a compass and opened the breaker on it, even if you applied eleventy jillion volts to that wire, it would not affect the compass. As soon as you closed the breaker and current started to flow, a magnetic field will form around the length of the wire. The strength of the field will be proportional to the amount of current. So, as bcone points out above, old school incandescent nav lights pull lots of current compared to LED navs, therefore, you will need more separation between the compass and incandescent wiring than you would when using LED lights. Web