Edo2000 on Pa18, pulling out of water?
- Thread starter redfin
- Start date
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
The strongest place is where the front spreader attaches to the floats. If you have the streamline spreader fairings you will need to protect them by attaching right next to them with something to prevent the tow rope from slipping towards the center of the spreader. If your tow rope moves toward the center of the spreader, you risk doing damage.
DO NOT PULL ON THE CLEATS. They are not designed for those loads.
DO NOT PULL ON THE CLEATS. They are not designed for those loads.
Grant
FRIEND
At Work.....
You could also pull at the FWD strut fittings at the float. Depending on how steep the bank is it may want to dig in and roll up on the nose of the floats. Just be careful. It may help to place some wood planks under the floats to reduce the friction and help it slide.
Last edited:
BC12D-4-85
SPONSOR
Fairbanks, AK.
Placing slippery plastic tarps under the floats helps reduce wear and friction. Fasten them around the bow of the floats. Wet the ground along the path. The tarps can get torn but better than the floats.
Gary
Gary
55-PA18A
SPONSOR
Dillingham, Alaska
How far do you have to move it? My mechanic used to move over-enthusiastic landings (and under enthusiastic take-offs) off the tundra surrounding Shannon's Pond using sheets of plywood wetted down with buckets of water. I think I would distribute the stresses out as much as possible by attaching to both the bases of the front spreader bar and front float strut.
Jim
Jim
BC12D-4-85
SPONSOR
Fairbanks, AK.
I've carried one of these in the plane for years. Makes shelter summer and winter, good for dragging stuff like firewood or killed game to camp, and engine cover. I holed a float once and put the tarp under the floats then drove it up on the shore to patch. Just like duct tape only more.
Gary
Gary
Attachments
aktango58
FRIEND
18AA
some PVC pipe under the keels will help also. Put pipe under each side if only short pieces, or even wood. pull it up a bit, move the back pieces to the front and keep working it. I had loaded mine onto the trailer with a simple come-a-long.
boards are really easy to use, wet is best.
boards are really easy to use, wet is best.
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
With this in mind, not knowing how you plan to transfer from the ground to the trailer or how high the trailer is........ Use caution not to tip the bows up too high so as to damage the water rudders and/or the rear bulkhead on the floats. Lifting just the bows can easily dig the rudders into the ground.
cubdriver2
FRIEND
upstate NY
Floats go thru mud quite easy, you might be able to get to solid ground with power if not rocks. My float pond is very shallow, 2' deep in most of it but the bottom is soft. One year during a drought I had about 150' area where the bottom was above the water about 50' in front of my dock. I kept waiting for rain but it never came. I figured I had better make a run for the open water before it got worse. It went across the mud flats so easy that I kept flying all summer crossing over the mud between the dock and open water
Glenn
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
I've landed on wet grass and then taxied to the hangar. It helps to move by pushing the stick all the way forward rolling the floats forward up onto the curved portion of the keels. If you hold the stick back, it may not move at all, even with full power.
Hardtailjohn
Registered User
Marion, MT
We ran 185's, Beavers and even Single Otters off and on the grass like that, with never a problem. If it was a bit sticky, we'd loop a really small loop over the back side of a bow cleat and give it a little help.
John
