• If You Are Having Trouble Logging In with Your Old Username and Password, Please use this Forgot Your Password link to get re-established.
  • Hey! Be sure to login or register!

Cargo pod issues

The Kid

FOUNDER
Thompson Falls
I am thinking of buying a cargo pod for my Super Cub. I know two people that have them. One guy flys a Citabra and with the pod attached; he overheats. The other one has a Carbon Cub and with the pod attached; he has a carbon monoxide problem. I don't know if I want one or not. WHATDAYATHINK?
 
It's highly unlikely that the cargo pod is the direct cause of those issues. If the added drag of a pod (negligible at best) causes overheating then the plane was already running very hot. If the pod caused carbon monoxide in the cabin it's because there's some penetration that is allowing CO into the cockpit or perhaps an issue with the cabin heat system. In either case, the pod isn't at fault.

There's lots of cubs flying around with cargo pods with zero issues.
 
It's highly unlikely that the cargo pod is the direct cause of those issues. If the added drag of a pod (negligible at best) causes overheating then the plane was already running very hot. If the pod caused carbon monoxide in the cabin it's because there's some penetration that is allowing CO into the cockpit or perhaps an issue with the cabin heat system. In either case, the pod isn't at fault.

There's lots of cubs flying around with cargo pods with zero issues.

What he said !
 
I fly a Super Cub with a pod and have a highly sensitive installed carbon monoxide detector with the sensor located under the panel and it very rarely goes off (and then no higher than 6-8 parts) and then only in a long extended steep climb.
 
For some Carbon Cub owners elevated CO levels after the installation of a pod is real. Cub Crafters forum has details.
 
I was getting high CO in our TopCub with a pod,, taped up the holes in the pod that the float wires go through and the high CO levels went away.
 
My layman’s aerodynamic understanding of the pod causing hotter running is it creates a higher pressure area in front of the pod. This higher pressure lowers the cooling airflow through the engine and exiting on the bottom ever-so-slightly. The reason for the “seaplane lip” is to create a lower pressure area in that same spot. However, that higher pressure area also envelops the draggy gear/bungee/vee causing free air to flow around it and ever-so-slightly increases airspeed.

Now where’s my Holiday inn express key?


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org
 
I can't imagine not having a cargo pod. Many of the adventures I take with my plane wouldn't be possible without the pod. I've never had problems, and have that thing stuffed with gear more often than not.
 
If it improves your mission, I wouldn’t be without one. If you are ordering a new one, ask about the XL versions wether it’s Firman or Airglas. With any flavor of bushwheel you’ll have plenty of clearance and few know the difference in pod size wether legal or not. Airglas’s version is legal I think.
 
Yes, I would order the Airglass XL carbon fiber from Airframes (my favorite super cub supplier). The overheating was in a Citabra and the CO was in a Carbon Cub.; I fly a regular 1956 super cub. Gee, if I could pick up a few miles an hour; Wow! But CO is real, real bad news. I would have to get a CO detector. Someone said there is one that apps to your I Phone via Bluetooth I believe. That sounds good but CO is CO. The crating and shipping is like $1100 too. Big decision.
 
Aren’t you running a ground adjustable Sensenich on your 180hp cub? How do you like it?
 
I would go with Carbon Concepts pod for versatile.

If I had to have more fuel, the Airglass combo pod would be my next choice, and what I had on my last cub.

Waiting for pods to be approved for the Maule, then I will be very happy.
 
I really like it! For starters, it's light. Like 20 lbs total weight which is way lighter than anything else made for the 180. It also has a real sharp ergonomic looking spinner. It's, of course, adjustable which only takes a flunky like myself about 20-30 minutes to change. And setting the angle is a cake walk. BUT I haven't changed it much. I run 6 out of 2-7. 7 being the most bite. Maybe when it gets a little colder I might change it to 5. MY formula is not over 2575 at 60 indicated. That's about 83% of the speed of sound at my usual DA. I am finding that, even now, I'm turning about 2470 and it still performs and I have noticed that at altitude, say 6000 or so, it still climbs like a rocket because the speed of sound is lower so the 2575 is too high and my 2470 to 2540 or so is best. I guess Sensenich is STCing them for the 0320 too. I guess you can tell I like it?
 
But the Carbon Concepts pod isn't STC'd is it? How much does it weigh? How long and deep and wide?
 
I would have to get a CO detector.

If you don't have a CO detector right now, go get one and stick it to your instrument panel before your next flight. It's your only chance of detecting it if you develop a leak in your heat system.

Web
 
I would go with Carbon Concepts pod for versatile.

If I had to have more fuel, the Airglass combo pod would be my next choice, and what I had on my last cub.

Waiting for pods to be approved for the Maule, then I will be very happy.
What do you like about the Carbon Concepts pod over the Furman and Airglas?
And yes, Carbon Concept is experimental only.
 
If you don't have a CO detector right now, go get one and stick it to your instrument panel before your next flight. It's your only chance of detecting it if you develop a leak in your heat system.

Web

What he ^^ said. I was flying a 206 with pax from Bettles to Fairbanks in winter. One passenger was getting really sick….but smooth flight. They asked to land, so I stopped at a pipeline strip. Ten minutes later, everybody was puking and had violent headaches. I thanked that passenger for demanding I land. Might have turned out waaaay worse.

i had throbbing headache for 48 hours. Bad exhaust was culprit. CO is bad stuff.

MTV
 
Experiencing the elevated CO issue now with our new XL Piatt pod from Airframes on a Legend AL18. 120-130 ppm in climb and 50-70 during landing. No bueno.
Have to start sealing penetrations on the belly and perhaps add exhaust extensions.
 
Experiencing the elevated CO issue now with our new XL Piatt pod from Airframes on a Legend AL18. 120-130 ppm in climb and 50-70 during landing. No bueno.
Have to start sealing penetrations on the belly and perhaps add exhaust extensions.

What are the levels without the pod?
 
Experiencing the elevated CO issue now with our new XL Piatt pod from Airframes on a Legend AL18. 120-130 ppm in climb and 50-70 during landing. No bueno.
Have to start sealing penetrations on the belly and perhaps add exhaust extensions.


Is the tail of your fuselage open or closed?
 
I have noticed that a lot of the experimental stuff is not built that tight so lots of places for CO to get in. It is fine if you are always flying with the door open. But if you are flying in the cold and close everything up you can get a negative cabin pressure and have a CO issue it is time to close things up in the exhaust stream. Having a positive pressure in the cabin via a clean fresh/heated air intake will pressurize the cabin and keep CO out. If I close off the fresh air intake on my 1959 180C I will get a CO buildup. Keeping it open and adjusting the hot air damper keeps a cabin at a positive pressure and no CO issues. The latter ones had the little air scoops on the cowl to provide positive cabin pressure. I have not heard any issues with the bigger Piatt pod other than the guides just keep stuffing more crap into it!! So I would would be looking at the aircraft and not the pod as the issue.
DENNY
 
....... my 1959 180C I will get a CO buildup. Keeping it open and adjusting the hot air damper keeps a cabin at a positive pressure and no CO issues. The latter ones had the little air scoops on the cowl to provide positive cabin pressure.
DENNY
Those scoops on the cowl are for radio cooling. The scoops on the upper sides near the tail are for pressurizing the cabin with clean air.
 
I experienced no measurable CO levels prior to the installation of a pod then levels 25-50 during ground ops, 50-100 during climb and slow decent, 0 at cruise. After applying painters tape at the cabane and gear penetrations, fuel sump and seam where metal bottom meets fabric all levels dropped to 0-15. After removing tape this Spring for cleaning as expected levels went back to previous numbers.
 
I went through the same thing when I installed a pod. I put blue tape everywhere I could and at times it helped but it never went away. The mod that cured the problem was extensions. My tail pipes are now about a foot below the cowl. Clint at Vetterman made them for me. I have the detector that 40M has an image of above.
 
Taping up leading edge of belly cleanout pan at tail plus taping around the twin belly fuel sumps aft of cargo pod resulted in a 50% reduction of detectable CO (from 130 to 66ppm) during takeoff and climb out and a 35% reduction (from 70 to 45ppm) during landing.

Removing the pod while still taped up resulted in no alarms (below 35ppm on our digital unit) during 30 minute test flight consisting of 3 takeoffs and landings, performance climb from 400’ to 4,500’, max speed run, and cruise for 10 min at 60% power.

Finished by taping inspection panel on belly under front seat, sealing the metal boot cowl to fabric seam and sealing small 1/2" holes next to gear leg attach points. Results with pod on were no detectable CO gases during all phases of test flight.
 
Last edited:
Add a short exhaust pipe tip extension for road vehicles sized to fit the aircraft's outlet. Weld, bolt, or clamp-on. Chrome will get you home.

Gary
 
That's the final piece of the puzzle.
I've gotten the CO down today to undetectable with current digital detector by taping up belly panel seams and other penetrations, but agree that extensions would be prudent.
Add a short exhaust pipe tip extension for road vehicles sized to fit the aircraft's outlet. Weld, bolt, or clamp-on. Chrome will get you home.

Gary
 
With extensions there's a chance for cracking at the muffler - pipe weld, so maybe a gusset would be needed? Early C-185's with an extended exhaust pipe to reduce cowl flap hinge wear and surface corrosion, experienced some issues. Later mufflers had added bracing as I recall.

Gary
 
Back
Top