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Stewarts glue removal

Oliver

Registered User
I’m stripping a Cub previously covered with Stewarts, last guy used batting around tank bays and all leading edges. Left lots of glue residue when I removed fabric.
Any tips on removing old glue?
tried rubber “pinstripe/decal remover wheel” very slow process.
Tried 3M adhesive remover, slow.
Best thing so far is brake parts cleaner in aerosol can.
Maybe this is payback for all the times I’ve badmouthed Stewarts.
Any ideas?

thanks,
 
Karmic retribution indeed ;)

I'm thinking if the sheetmetal was so bumpy it needed felt when it was covered last its twice as bad now? Might be easier and more practical to replace the leading edges etc and move forward?


Rocket

ok, back to lurk mode...
 
Yep tough stuff. I’ve not seen a chemical that will easily remove it. The rubber wheel or eraser stick is slow but will peel it off
 
I considered stripper but all wing components are epoxy primed and in pretty good shape. I’d hate to cut into and compromise paint layer.
Fuselage tubes cleaned up pretty quickly with some rags and brake parts spray, didn’t seem to affect paint. I’ll keep plugging away with that and see what happens.
 
Ironic that you can apply coatings in your living room, but need a haz mat permit to remove it.
Definitely tough stuff though!

I try to avoid MEK anymore.
Per Steve’s suggestion, I’ll try a little acetone.
 
Just go down and get a sanding belt dressing block from Harbor Freight. Quicker and easier than anything else you'll use.
John
 
I tried the rubber wheel on a drill motor, minimal success.
tried John’s suggestion of using rubber belt sander cleaner, worked well on large flat surfaces. Issue is more delicate surfaces - ribs, tank bay edges etc..
to Marty’s suggestion, found an aerosol product appropriately named “aircraft decal and adhesive remover” at the auto parts store right next to “aircraft paint remover”
worked better than anything else I’ve tried. I think the key is using a “jell” product that loiters a bit vs something that flashes off quickly (acetone, brake parts cleaner etc..)
Im thinking laquer thinner may work well too but don’t have any.
thanks for suggestions!
doug

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I've used lacquer thinner, and it works - sorta. Like you say, flashes off quickly. Stewarts glue is one tough glue.
 
I have an inline air tool that takes a variety of 100mm wheels, wire, solid rubber and segmented rubber are my common wheels, the segmented rubber is the best when dealing with heavy buildup.
I also have a solvent that does not flash off quick that works well, need to find where it is hiding. It is a decal remover designed for vinyl graphics that we needed to rotate through on race cars.
Have not used these in a decade since we no longer travel the country to races.
 
Anything that generates heat (friction heat) tends to make a mess with the glue. Thin aluminum skins heat up quickly with eraser disc on drill motor.
 
A car detail buddy dropped this stuff off.
By far surpasses everything I’ve tried.
I put some in a plastic spray bottle, misted an area of glue, waited about a minute and wiped it with a Terri cloth rag.
glue rolled up and came off in chunks and does not gum up the rag.

tank bay rib
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One wipe with rag
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second wipe
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Product:
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If you feel like mixing up your own potion, the SDS lists Xylene and Naphtha

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