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Thread: Stewarts glue removal

  1. #1

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    Stewarts glue removal

    I’m stripping a Cub previously covered with Stewarts, last guy used batting around tank bays and all leading edges. Left lots of glue residue when I removed fabric.
    Any tips on removing old glue?
    tried rubber “pinstripe/decal remover wheel” very slow process.
    Tried 3M adhesive remover, slow.
    Best thing so far is brake parts cleaner in aerosol can.
    Maybe this is payback for all the times I’ve badmouthed Stewarts.
    Any ideas?

    thanks,
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  2. #2

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    Karmic retribution indeed

    I'm thinking if the sheetmetal was so bumpy it needed felt when it was covered last its twice as bad now? Might be easier and more practical to replace the leading edges etc and move forward?


    Rocket

    ok, back to lurk mode...

  3. #3
    Bearhawk Builder's Avatar
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    Yep tough stuff. I’ve not seen a chemical that will easily remove it. The rubber wheel or eraser stick is slow but will peel it off

  4. #4
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Paint stripper? I have always used acetone on small spots.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers

  5. #5

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    I considered stripper but all wing components are epoxy primed and in pretty good shape. I’d hate to cut into and compromise paint layer.
    Fuselage tubes cleaned up pretty quickly with some rags and brake parts spray, didn’t seem to affect paint. I’ll keep plugging away with that and see what happens.

  6. #6

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    MEK removes EkoBond, but that might effect the wing component's coating too.

  7. #7

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    Ironic that you can apply coatings in your living room, but need a haz mat permit to remove it.
    Definitely tough stuff though!

    I try to avoid MEK anymore.
    Per Steve’s suggestion, I’ll try a little acetone.

  8. #8
    Bearhawk Builder's Avatar
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    It won't touch it

  9. #9
    Grant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bearhawk Builder View Post
    It won't touch it
    Acetone will work better than anything I've tried. The only thing that removes it faster is to get a good chunk of it lifted and peel it up, otherwise acetone works best for me.
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  10. #10
    Hardtailjohn's Avatar
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    Just go down and get a sanding belt dressing block from Harbor Freight. Quicker and easier than anything else you'll use.
    John
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  11. #11
    Marty57's Avatar
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    We did find a product that works nicely to remove the glue; here's a link to the FB post about it a while back. We have it available to order or it may be available locally.

    https://www.facebook.com/StewartSyst...8760335656343/

    It works pretty good at softening up the glue; I used it at Oshkosh between sessions to clean the frames we cover each day.
    Marty57
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    N367PS
    Psalm 36:7 "High and low among men find refuge in the shadow of His wing"
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  12. #12

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    Yup, saw you using it.
    Regards, Charlie
    Super Coupe E-AB build in process
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  13. #13

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    Wire wheel on drill?


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org

  14. #14
    Marty57's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flynlow View Post
    Wire wheel on drill?


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org
    I wouldn't use a wire wheel, it will get clogged up real easy and be pretty hard on aluminum leading edges.. This will work nicely on a drill. You can find these on Amazon and many other places also.

    https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/pro...RoCFWsQAvD_BwE

    Marty57
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  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by flynlow View Post
    Wire wheel on drill?


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org
    I would think a fine wire wheel on a drill would work..

    A pressure washer might be worth a try??

  16. #16

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    I tried the rubber wheel on a drill motor, minimal success.
    tried John’s suggestion of using rubber belt sander cleaner, worked well on large flat surfaces. Issue is more delicate surfaces - ribs, tank bay edges etc..
    to Marty’s suggestion, found an aerosol product appropriately named “aircraft decal and adhesive remover” at the auto parts store right next to “aircraft paint remover”
    worked better than anything else I’ve tried. I think the key is using a “jell” product that loiters a bit vs something that flashes off quickly (acetone, brake parts cleaner etc..)
    Im thinking laquer thinner may work well too but don’t have any.
    thanks for suggestions!
    doug

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  17. #17
    Gordon Misch's Avatar
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    I've used lacquer thinner, and it works - sorta. Like you say, flashes off quickly. Stewarts glue is one tough glue.
    Gordon

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  18. #18

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    I have an inline air tool that takes a variety of 100mm wheels, wire, solid rubber and segmented rubber are my common wheels, the segmented rubber is the best when dealing with heavy buildup.
    I also have a solvent that does not flash off quick that works well, need to find where it is hiding. It is a decal remover designed for vinyl graphics that we needed to rotate through on race cars.
    Have not used these in a decade since we no longer travel the country to races.
    Regards, Charlie
    Super Coupe E-AB build in process

  19. #19

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    Anything that generates heat (friction heat) tends to make a mess with the glue. Thin aluminum skins heat up quickly with eraser disc on drill motor.

  20. #20
    jimboflying's Avatar
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    Some formulations of auto gas attack the glue so there must be a chemical solvent that would work.
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  21. #21

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    A car detail buddy dropped this stuff off.
    By far surpasses everything I’ve tried.
    I put some in a plastic spray bottle, misted an area of glue, waited about a minute and wiped it with a Terri cloth rag.
    glue rolled up and came off in chunks and does not gum up the rag.

    tank bay rib
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    One wipe with rag
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    second wipe
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  22. #22
    fancypants's Avatar
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    If you feel like mixing up your own potion, the SDS lists Xylene and Naphtha

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