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Thread: Changing a tundra tire

  1. #1

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    Question Changing a tundra tire

    Hello - Iím a new super cub owner and need to change my tundra tires due to wear. Iíve changed tires on a Pawnee but these are bigger with much lower pressure. Does anyone have any tips?

  2. #2

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    Bushwheels? If so, they’re the easiest tires to change since there are no tubes. Split the wheel, replace tire, reassemble the wheel. Squeezing the wheel halves together can be frustrating. A piece of threaded rod, two big washers, and two nuts make a good squeezer.
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  3. #3
    wireweinie's Avatar
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    If you have not seen these tires off the rim, they are 'self contained'. Imagine a glorified tire tube that you just bolt the wheel halves together, through the center. And, like Stewart said, don't forget to have a threaded rod or some other squeezer handy for pushing the wheel halves together. Not impossible to do it without but it makes life easier.

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  4. #4

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    I usually remove the valve core first. Then remove the bolts holding the tire rims together. You may need a tire iron to work them free/sometimes putting the valve stem back in and adding 1 lb of air helps but not always. Once apart clean the rims I use threaded rod/washers, 1 lb of air and tire talc when mounting. The air helps the center grow larger, really helps with the big beaver tires. Airframes may have a few other hints if the rim is stuck in the tire. DENNY
    Last edited by DENNY; 09-03-2021 at 12:17 PM.
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  5. #5
    mvivion's Avatar
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    ALWAYS fully deflate ANY tire before you split the rim. Even a Bushwheel, though there’s less risk there.

    The term “Tundra tire” has now been associated (incorrectly in my opinion) with the Goodyear “Blimp” tire or 26 inch. If you have one of those, by all means remove the inflation valve BEFORE you split that rim.

    MTV
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  6. #6
    hotrod180's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stewartb View Post
    ........... A piece of threaded rod, two big washers, and two nuts make a good squeezer.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #7

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    I prefer to remove the valve core rather than the valve stem. Inner tubes are expensive.

    Anyone new to Alaskan Bushwheels should be aware they must not be inflated if not mounted. The valve cores should not even be in the tires unless they are mounted. I always partially inflate inner tubes before fitting them. It reduces the risk of them getting pinched.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by frequent_flyer View Post
    I prefer to remove the valve core rather than the valve stem. Inner tubes are expensive.

    Anyone new to Alaskan Bushwheels should be aware they must not be inflated if not mounted. The valve cores should not even be in the tires unless they are mounted. I always partially inflate inner tubes before fitting them. It reduces the risk of them getting pinched.
    Doesn't ABW recommend off rim storage with a pound or two of pressure?

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by stewartb View Post
    Doesn't ABW recommend off rim storage with a pound or two of pressure?
    If they do I'd appreciate a reference. Mine have been shipped with valve cores removed and a placard cautioning that they should not be inflated more than 1 psi unless mounted. I never took this warning as a requirement or recommendation that they should be inflated to 1 psi when not mounted.
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