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Which airforms baffle set for pa-12 Kenmore 150?

Kodiakmack

Kodiakmack

Registered User
winters in Utah, Summers in Idaho
Hoping for someone who has been before. I called airorms and they were not sure which set I need. They have a non-PMA "pa-12 150" kit or they have the pa-18 PMA'd kit.

The Kenmore STC calls for PA-18 baffles.

Here's the catch. They'll take the PA-18 set back if I order them and they don't fit. But they WON"T take the pa-12 kit back if I order it first and it doesn't fit.

Is there anyone that has installed one of their kits on a Kenmore 150?
 
I used the PA12-150 non-certified kit. Had the owner send an email to build to his specs per owner produced parts. PA18 baffles will interfere with the top cowl rails. Pictures of the baffles installed on a Kenmore STC'd 320 powered PA12 and PDFs I got from Airforms with pictures of the individual baffles.
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Thank you so much! As always, someone steps up and hits a home run!!
 
Steve Pierce said:
I used the PA12-150 non-certified kit. Had the owner send an email to build to his specs per owner produced parts. PA18 baffles will interfere with the top cowl rails. Pictures of the baffles installed on a Kenmore STC'd 320 powered PA12 and PDFs I got from Airforms with pictures of the individual baffles.
View attachment 56065

View attachment 56066
Click to expand...

Steve, with the baffles so close to the cowl channels is there any issue with those interacting/fretting?
 
Engine Baffles on a modified 12 is like every other PA12 part: cut and fit, cut and fit, cut and ..... wish you bought a plane that didn’t need so much personalized fabrication.

You should expect to do some tweaking in the engine compartment to get the airflow/cooling just right for each cylinder. It is one area where one size never fits all.
 
No different than an 18, depends on who rebuilt it and the effort they put into not butchering it so that anything and everything has to be custom fabricated.
 
Finally getti mg around to installing these. Happy for the most part but the way the rocker cover baffles fit requires you to take them off to remove a spark plug, and they’re riding pretty hard on the leads 1732622C-EC77-4D78-931A-3D791BA51449.jpg Might need to bend/cut, or just live with a few more screws to remove to play with spark plugs. Everything else so far has fit well with a minor amount of modification.
 

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Bump….

getting the baffles final fit but still haven’t figured a way to get the plugs/leads on/off without loosening the rocker cover baffles. Thoughts/fixes?
 
I have the old Plumb military issued spark plug sockets with a hex on the top so I can use a wrench when there isn't room for a ratchet.
 
Thanks Steve,
I think we have one of those somewhere. That takes care of the plug, might just have to put up with it for getting the leads in/out.
 
It is a pain but if it was easy everyone would do it.
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