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Stuck Oil seal

coxcub

PATRON
Devon, England
Folks

I'm in a bit of a bind trying to remove a magneto drive oil seal from my Ranger engine in my UC61K which was leaking and allowing oil to splatter the inside of the cowling.

Neither a puller, a slide hammer with a screw or a hook will touch it. The puller arms just spring out, the screw bows the outer rim of the seal and lets go, and the hook bows the outer rim more than the screw - probably 1940s glue!.

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(tube is to prevent debris )

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I've tried acetone and MEK to try releasing any adhesive that may have been used but it will not budge.

I do not want to do damage to any thing else so am trolling for any ideas as to what to try next.

Many thanks all

Frank

PS the Super Cub rebuild has just begun - all new Dakota Cub ribs - a well used Israeli Air Force machine!
 

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Can you drive one side in any farther ? that would brake it loose and then you could pull it out.
 
Do you have a lathe?

Maybe make a shim that slides over the shaft and fills the gap between the shaft and the puller arms. Inside diameter .005 larger than the shaft, and the outside diameter just right to require it to be gently tapped into place, then the puller should work.

I would try to determine the base compound of the glue, maybe some soaking as you cut the shim would help.

This is where MCS Mike would be great to still have around.
 
As a mechanic, this is the kind of thing that makes a customer say..."why did it take 6 hours to do a 2 hour job?" So, when you get it out, let us know what you did. At some point in a job like this you may decide its easier to tear it out of there and pick the pieces out one by one. Before that, I would try some heat as well. One of those micro fancy torches would be the ticket....

Good Luck - And Mike is missed but not gone.
 
If I had that I'd poke the material to see if it's rubbery (like RTV) or hard (like bearing or stud mounting goo). Then as suggested try high test alcohol and/or heat.

Gary
 
Stick wood wedges behind puller arms and giver if there's room big pry bar it will come out or find mechanic with experience
 
I wonder if you could finish cutting it in two where hole is and peel it out around the slot.


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org
 
Many thanks everyone -

I've tried all the 'liquid remedies' to no avail - I'm going to try heat with the puller under tension next but need to get fuel for my wife's kitchen blow torch when the shops open tomorow. Fingers crossed it will just pop out after it cools down. I'll keep you posted on results.

Frank
 
Many thanks everyone -

I've tried all the 'liquid remedies' to no avail - I'm going to try heat with the puller under tension next but need to get fuel for my wife's kitchen blow torch when the shops open tomorow. Fingers crossed it will just pop out after it cools down. I'll keep you posted on results.

Frank

Would tapping the edge of seal with brass drift help loosen. ESP if you carefully cut seal in two where hole is drilled??


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app
 
You beat me to it Charlie,

I finally sorted it yesterday after many days of head scratching and the application of 'gentle persuasion' with a slide hammer with a hook failed to shift it.

After further consultation I was told not to use heat due to the magnesium body in which the seal was seated.

The answer was to use a cut off mini hacksaw blade with the cutting stroke as it was pulled outward to cut a slot in the the side walls without the swarf going inward - there was only about a 1/4 inch stroke available so it took over an hour, and then to force the outer wall inwards with careful use of a punch which pulled the circumferential wall inwards a little thereby releasing the grip - a final go with the slide hammer had it out - about five hours in all plus about ten days thinking about it!

There was no adhesive and the new seal was a very tight fit. Just waiting for decent weather for a ground run and leak check.

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Frank
 

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