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Play in federal skis. Question about new bushings.

A

adamgrenda

Registered User
King Salmon, AK
I have federal skis on my cub and the issue I have is there is play at the ski tip 1-2”. The cables are hooked to the front gear bolt and I know that pulls them into the center more so. I’ve researched this and some say it’s okay but I don’t like the idea of play or movement as it stems from the axle area.

I have some uhmw or Delrin rod same diameter as the pedestal. I’ve thought about milling that into a new bushing to try for the skis. I’m concerned with the fact the pedestal might not be perfectly round in the center and might not work. Also I loose some impact absorbing benefits from that rubber bushing.

If I do mill out the plastic do I still put a 4130 sleeve inside of just make the ID the size directly for my axle?

Experimental cub federal skis with extended plastic and TK1 shocks on 3” gear.
 
Maybe 3” at most on the right ski which is the worst one. Am I being too concerned about a common issue?
 
What advantage do skis with rubber bushings have over those with solid pedestals? I've flown both but never could figure out the benefit of Federal's design. Just asking those with more experience on Federals.

Gary
 
I have Federal 2500’s on one Cub with some side to side movement at the ends and Landes 2500’s on the Monster Cub with little movement as there is no rubber bushing just steel sleeves to space for the 1 1/2” axles. The movement with the Federals is a non issue and due to the rubber spacer used same with Federal 1500’s which I run on a GlaStar.
 
adamgrenda said:
I have federal skis on my cub and the issue I have is there is play at the ski tip 1-2”. The cables are hooked to the front gear bolt and I know that pulls them into the center more so. I’ve researched this and some say it’s okay but I don’t like the idea of play or movement as it stems from the axle area.

I have some uhmw or Delrin rod same diameter as the pedestal. I’ve thought about milling that into a new bushing to try for the skis. I’m concerned with the fact the pedestal might not be perfectly round in the center and might not work. Also I loose some impact absorbing benefits from that rubber bushing.

If I do mill out the plastic do I still put a 4130 sleeve inside of just make the ID the size directly for my axle?

Experimental cub federal skis with extended plastic and TK1 shocks on 3” gear.
Click to expand...

I have a set of Federal 2000’s also with extended UHMW all the way around out 2”. My rubber bushings were in bad shape so I turned some new ones from Delrin based on a suggestion from the guys at Aero ski. The Delrin bushings work great and greatly reduced any sideways movement of the ski.

Jeff


Sent from my iPad using SuperCub.Org mobile app
 
jrussl said:
I have a set of Federal 2000’s also with extended UHMW all the way around out 2”. My rubber bushings were in bad shape so I turned some new ones from Delrin based on a suggestion from the guys at Aero ski. The Delrin bushings work great and greatly reduced any sideways movement of the ski.

Jeff


Sent from my iPad using SuperCub.Org mobile app
Click to expand...

The skis is still going to follow the path of least resistance while moving, with play or without

Glenn
 
My Datums have quite a bit of side-to-side play. The bungee from the ski tip to the lower engine mount really pulls them toward the centre a couple of inches. I've tried to "fix" this but, really, there's no need. When the ski is forced under the wheel they straighten somewhat and then on landing (as has been pointed out above) they straighten out. No problem.
 
On weaker gear like factory taylorcraft we have to be careful about toe-in, especially on hard ice with frozen raised patches. The raised patches can quickly force the ski nose sideways. The former owner of mine had Atlee Dodge add Piper-like lower gear bracing which greatly reduced twisting.

Gary
 
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