Let's see, he thinks he has a grounding problem and has a set of jumper cables.... shouldn't be too hard to figure out. Oh well, I'm sure the mixture and carb heat cables will do just fine.
Let's see, he thinks he has a grounding problem and has a set of jumper cables.... shouldn't be too hard to figure out. Oh well, I'm sure the mixture and carb heat cables will do just fine.
mike mcs repair liked this post
Don't forget the primer lines. They're copper just like a cable is! lol
Web
Life's tough . . . wear a cup.mike mcs repair liked this post
I tried that! They glow red on start on a 185... but.....
Might not of been primer, but they were copper lines...
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Life's tough . . . wear a cup.barrow pilot thanked for this post
Mike, care to elaborate on how to start an engine “well”? I grew up around machines including airplanes, but all I’ve ever been told is to crank no more than 15 secs. Wait 1 minute. Try again. After 3 tries it’s time to trouble shoot.
Interested to hear what else I’ve missed!
I shake my head at your saying ground cable needs to be same size gauge as the SHORT GROUND STRAP/CABLE from engine to fuselage(I don’t do engine to mount, to many loose connections in engine mount lugs) basic electricity!!! Big cable Like you say doesn’t hurt, but is NOT anything but extra weight. Look at the chart in 43.13 for length and size. The only way your interpretation would be VALID is if you were running a long ground cable all the way to battery like on a composite airframe. But you are NOT, we are using the fuselage usually to conduct most of the flow. I have used same size wire, mostly out of laziness and not having proper smaller size on hand..... but preferably a #8 is plenty as a grind from engine case to one of those SMALL 8-32 screws poking through firewall
Remember a wire is like a leaky soaker hose, longer it is the more it leaks on the way, so if it’s longer you need bigger...
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Glad I made you shake your head Mike.![]()
How did you make out? I have a cub that has been going through starters
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The ring gear is fine, the starter stops working. Quick tap of the hammer and it works again. Solenoid will click, tap starter. We are on the 6 month plan. Skytec NL. I have never had an issue with skytec for years. That changed when they got sold.
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They have had some solenoid issues, seen it on the Carbon Cubs quite a bit. Done several warrantee replacements on them due to starter failure but thaought it was indicative to the starter they were using. Always had excellent service out of the NL.
Who makes their solenoids? Cole Hersee in South Boston has been making high quality solenoids for decades. I kept having trouble with the Cessna supplied starter solenoid in my 185. Switched to a Cole Hrsee, no more troubles. Perhaps they make a suitable model?
N1PA
Apparently Skytec is experiencing some issues with legacy starters but are working on it. We are on the 6 month plan currently. I will add that it does prop nice with the surefly electronic mag, even on the ice. The starter will click. That's all. Ring gear is good, solenoid is new, new copper starter cable from the starter to the solenoid, good engine ground. The entire starting system was replaced a few months ago. Got rid of the aluminum cable.
968 hours since new barely cranks, installed in March of last year. All that grease is since last 100 hr, just never seems to stop oozing
Factory new so whatever they put inside them
hangarmonkey liked this post
I would take it apart to try to find the issue. Particularly with that amount of time on it.
N1PA
How much voltage at the starter?
Kyle
You should be able to prop a 0320/0360/0470 by hand so if you have to crank it than more 4 -6 blades with the starter it is time to trouble shoot, or learn how to properly start it as Mike suggested. Both my cub and 180 usually start on the second blade unless I screwed up.
DENNY
Crash, Jr. liked this post
If you have a min/max feature on your multimeter it is handy when diagnosing starter circuit issues on any vehicle.
Jerry
Talked with Western Skyways about warranty on one with 318 hours on it. They said that they will add it to their pile, they have a bunch of warranty ones. so its not just me from what it sounds like.
Western skyways warrantied the starter.
Well I got 280 hours on the starter before the solenoid failed...Mechanically
Good thread, I learned a lot. Enough to troubleshoot and fix the issue with my starter.
Turns out the engine-case-to-airframe ground cable has a crimp-on connector (to the engine case) which was barely loose … but loose enough to introduce resistance and keep the starter from engaging. I used the largest pair of vice grips I have to clamp down on the crimp and tighten it up. Now, the starter works as it should.
Now, my question to you guys: what is the proper tool to crimp that heavy of a gauge of crimp connector? I am fairly certain that the vice grips didn’t crimp as well as it should be crimped.
wireweinie thanked for this post
i love skytec starters never a problem gotta figure out how to start your plane
Here is a pic of mine. It's just a no-name knock off version but if you do a search on line you'll find a lot of choices. One detail to watch for is if the crimper is made for insulated or un insulated terminals. Choose the correct one for you as the jaws are different.
Web
Thanks guys. Looks like this one will work:
https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Termina...g+crimp&sr=8-5
If you think you'll only need it for this one crimp,
and don't really want to buy one,
NAPA or a similar auto parts place might be able to crimp it for you.
Cessna Skywagon-- accept no substitute!aviatoraf thanked for this post
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