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Mogas/HP/Compression/Timing/Operating Cost

Interesting discussion.

An engine theory I have developed after racing sleds and watching folks hot rod lots of stuff: Your engine has a fixed amount of horses it will give you, once you have taken that out of it you need to rebuild or replace.

Take an O-320 and hop it up, it will usually have a shorter life than one you don't. I am sure Peter has watched that with boat motors and guys trying to make a 350 into 700 hp!

Cheap horsepower is exactly what Denny has figured out- remove air flow obstructions in and out, (including shaving gasket edges to prevent intrusion into the chambers), Increase accuracy of fuel flow to allow more accurate power balance, and get the gearing correct.

Mousketeer: sounds like carb ice to me. I was WOT on a C-85 climbing out at 6,000 above mountains, running car gas, when she went silent with my father sitting next to me. Not good!

As a cautionary tail, the new sleds are great performance engines, and lots of automatic gizmos to give more power, but a teaspoon of water and they burn down instantly! Also, it is much easier, and common, to tow the new sleds home than get your plane back to the hangar. My old school sleds are far more reliable, and I can put any gas avmaialbe and run it.

MMO: Magic, smoke and mirrors? Lots of folks in all industries from Diesel engines to aircraft talk about engines with MMO history vs those without, and all say the MMO engines are much cleaner internally and show less wear. Stuck valves with MMO engines seem to be rare. If MMO removes or prevents carbon build up, that will help prevent stuck valves. $35,000 for an overhaul this year, after infrequent MMO use, has me convinced.

Stewart, as always your observation on displacement of fuel by additive is on target! Thank you.
 
MMO: Magic, smoke and mirrors? Lots of folks in all industries from Diesel engines to aircraft talk about engines with MMO history vs those without, and all say the MMO engines are much cleaner internally and show less wear. Stuck valves with MMO engines seem to be rare. If MMO removes or prevents carbon build up, that will help prevent stuck valves. $35,000 for an overhaul this year, after infrequent MMO use, has me convinced.

For those of you using MMO, how much are you adding per gallon of fuel?
 
4 oz per 10 gallons is what the instructions call for. I added a quart to every 100 gallons in my bulk tank for years. I stopped a few years ago. No difference that I can tell.

An engine builder told me that the only use for MMO is to verify morning sickness. If a valve starts sticking at first start, add MMO to the oil. If it resolves the sticking? Get the valve repaired correctly.

Increasing compression ratio adds approx 3-4% hp per full number up to 10-1 and then the gain drops off. Valve improvements about the same 3%. Fuel injection has varying increases depending on what you're comparing to what. Think about it. A Pponk 0-520 makes 265 hp. Add venturi valve seats? 275 hp. Add 8.5-1 over 7.5-1? 285 hp. With Cubs go from 7.5-1 to 8.5-1 in a 320? Add 10 hp. When talking about boats, snowmachines, cars, etc you're talking about engines spinning 6,000 to 10,000 rpm. Or state of the art car engines closer to 20,000 rpm. Very different from my airplane engines spinning 2,700.
 
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In my spraying days I used auto fuel with 3 gal MMO in my 1000 gal tank running 235hp O-540's.........never an issue in 3000 hrs.....but auto fuel had a bit of lead in it then. I'm convinced that straight auto fuel today runs too dry......needs MMO or similar for upper cyl lubrication.
 
In my spraying days I used auto fuel with 3 gal MMO in my 1000 gal tank running 235hp O-540's.........never an issue in 3000 hrs.....but auto fuel had a bit of lead in it then. I'm convinced that straight auto fuel today runs too dry......needs MMO or similar for upper cyl lubrication.

Or mix with 100LL.
 
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