Stewart System review

KJC · Jan 23, 2021

Regarding seaplane grommets; I did my first Stewart System elevator like I had always done dope and Polyfiber and made doilies for the grommets. I soon learned however you don’t need doilies with Stewart’s. Take the gromet and rub the backside on some medium grit emery cloth to remove any glaze then glue it on. Done. Yep, seems like you are skipping an important step leaving the doilies off but you don’t need them. If your unconvinced, glue one on and try to remove it with a pair of needle nose pliers. It won’t come off without distorting the gromet and the fabric. Also the glue doesn’t dry out like dope.

Marty57 · Jan 23, 2021

Charlie Longley said:
Well the flap is ready to spray. I was hoping it would warm up a little but no dice. We’ll see how the primer and paint likes a 65 degree hangar.

it was a bit of a learning curve. I think time wise it’s about the same as Poly Fiber. The hardest part was getting the seaplane drain doilies on. I figured out a technique on the third one.

View attachment 53690

Before you spray, don't forget to fill the weave with 3:1 Ekobond to distilled water by weight as per our manual.

Marty57

Charlie Longley · Jan 24, 2021

Marty57 said:
Before you spray, don't forget to fill the weave with 3:1 Ekobond to distilled water by weight as per our manual.

Marty57

Yep will do Marty. I’ve been following the manual and your videos closely.

Charlie

Steve Pierce · Jan 24, 2021

KJC said:
Regarding seaplane grommets; I did my first Stewart System elevator like I had always done dope and Polyfiber and made doilies for the grommets. I soon learned however you don’t need doilies with Stewart’s. Take the gromet and rub the backside on some medium grit emery cloth to remove any glaze then glue it on. Done. Yep, seems like you are skipping an important step leaving the doilies off but you don’t need them. If your unconvinced, glue one on and try to remove it with a pair of needle nose pliers. It won’t come off without distorting the gromet and the fabric. Also the glue doesn’t dry out like dope.

The problem I have had is over the years the grommets dry out and shrink and then start popping off.

hottshot · Jan 28, 2021

I did a set of Super STOL wings this summer and with the help of Monika it was a breeze!! Im getting ready to strip my Maule and do it next... Maybe I should finish the Cub first....

Hardtailjohn · Jan 28, 2021

She's sharp and does excellent work!
John

Charlie Longley · Feb 4, 2021

Well I finally got started on spraying the flap. Right off I can tell spraying with the part vertical isn’t going to work at 65 degrees. I thought I was spraying the first cross coat pretty light but it ran anyway. I know Poly or butyrate silver wouldn’t have run in these conditions. My plan is to spray one or two more cross coats, sand and see what I have.

The solids are much harder to dredge up then the other two systems I use.

The bay areas were fine but it ran at the tapes.

skywagon8a · Feb 4, 2021

Wipe it with a piece of scrap fabric and turn it flat while still wet.

Marty57 · Feb 4, 2021

Charlie Longley said:
View attachment 53975
The solids are much harder to dredge up then the other two systems I use.

View attachment 53976

You are right, the solids do build up at the bottom of the can. If you didn't get those solids mixed up into the EkoFill before spraying that would cause the runs you have. You were spraying on essentially EkoFill without the solids. You will need a new can of EkoFill at this point as the mix will be way off with the amount of solids still in the can. You can use a paint mixer in an electric drill motor to mix in the solids. Use a paint stir stick to dislodge first, than use the drill motor to mix. 65 degrees won't cause any issues; I shoot EkoFill at 60 regularly. PM me if you like and I can give you more insight into the process or go over the issues you are having over the phone.

Marty57

Charlie Longley · Feb 4, 2021

I got all the solids mixed back in before I sprayed. Doing the second coat now with the flap laid flat.

Charlie Longley · Feb 4, 2021

Talked to Marty and he helped me get my gun dialed in. This stuff sprays really different then anything I’ve sprayed on fabric before!

I am going to sand it down tomorrow and shoot it hanging up.

Marty suggested I spray some cardboard. Used quite a bit of Ekobond on this box!

Cleaning the gun is awesomely easy!

Marty57 · Feb 5, 2021

Charlie Longley said:
Talked to Marty and he helped me get my gun dialed in. This stuff sprays really different then anything I’ve sprayed on fabric before!

View attachment 53990
I am going to sand it down tomorrow and shoot it hanging up.

View attachment 53991
Marty suggested I spray some cardboard. Used quite a bit of Ekobond on this box!

View attachment 53992
Cleaning the gun is awesomely easy!

We figured out some of the issues with the runs. When I teach, and in the videos I have done, I use the DeVilbiss FL4 gun; Charlie is using the Tekna Pro gun. Both are great guns but the settings are very different. The FL4 gun has a coarse thread to the material flow knob; the Tekna Pro has a finer thread. The FL4 gun with the 1.3 tip uses a material setting of about 1 to 1-1/4 turn for most paint applications with our system as a starting point. The Tekna Pro uses much less, I think about 1/8 turn (I haven't used it myself). Before shooting any EkoFill, get a box and set the material flow so that the EkoFill sprays on the box very dry with a sandpaper like feel to it (with the manufacturer suggested air pressure). Increase the material until the dry texture goes away and it looks just a bit wet. Then, increase it a bit more till it runs or sags. Turn it back to the setting where it just looks wet and you have the setting for your gun and your flow pressure. The FL4 gun says to use 23 psi; I like a little higher around 26. Experiment a little with the sir pressure to get the same finish. If the Tekna Pro gun is set at 1-1/4 turn like the FL4 gun, you are putting out way more paint than needed and it will likely run. Charlie properly mixed the EkoFill so it came down to the setting on the gun. It is really important to dial in your gun on cardboard first before spraying on any aircraft parts. There are so many different manufacturers of spray equipment out there; I wish I had settings for most of them but that's not practical. If you run this kind of a test first to establish your settings you will be able to lay down the EkoFill without any issues. Follow a similar test for the topcoat as well. Hope this helps some.

Marty57

Dan Gervae · Feb 5, 2021

I had orange peel pretty bad at 23 lbs with my Fl-4...26-27 helped that. Honestly I had the most trouble with the EkoPrime white....it curdled up like cottage cheese until I upped the pressure. I have a spot on top of my fuselage that I sanded out and sprayed Ekopoly yellow over...I had wiped a curdled area with a wet towel and it felt like I had sanded it all out. After the ekopoly flowed out I can see the spot pretty clearly. I had moved on before I noticed it. Maybe someday I will fix it... but (I doubt it) You won’t see it from 500’��

Charlie Longley · Feb 5, 2021

Like Marty said I have a Tekna Pro gun. With a little experimenting on cardboard I found 1/2 turn on the material knob and 25 psi works well. Part of the problem was I am used to shooting butyrate. The Ekobond is really, really different.

I got my runs sanded down and a couple of cross coats on today. I am going to sand tomorrow and shoot two more cross coats then top coat it Monday. I like the way Ekobond sands. It’s a lot easier then poly or butyrate.

boarfish · Feb 6, 2021

I have to agree with Marty. I religiously scrape the bottom of the can with a stir stick then a blade in my drill every time I pour paint in the gun. It does settle out fast. I’ve applied a lot of EkoFill at between 60 and 65 degrees and had very little trouble. I paint surfaces vertically any time I can, because I have less trouble with other airborne contaminates landing in the paint, or accidentally dragging a hose or part of my tyvek suit on an edge.
With solids not mixed in well, the EkoFill is essentially over thinned and will run.

Sent from my iPad using SuperCub.Org

Charlie Longley · Feb 6, 2021

boarfish said:
I have to agree with Marty. I religiously scrape the bottom of the can with a stir stick then a blade in my drill every time I pour paint in the gun. It does settle out fast. I’ve applied a lot of EkoFill at between 60 and 65 degrees and had very little trouble. I paint surfaces vertically any time I can, because I have less trouble with other airborne contaminates landing in the paint, or accidentally dragging a hose or part of my tyvek suit on an edge.
With solids not mixed in well, the EkoFill is essentially over thinned and will run.

Sent from my iPad using SuperCub.Org

Yep it’s amazing how fast the solids settle! Seems like about half of it settles in 12 hours. That wasn’t the issue with my runs though.

Bearhawk Builder · Feb 6, 2021

Been spraying white all week. Ekofill and even Ekoprime settles out quick and over time you loose the ability to stir those solids back in. I've found with all Stewarts to order product as you need it rather than have it sit around more than a couple months. Buy in quarts instead of gallons unless spraying large items.

Hardtailjohn · Feb 6, 2021

Put the paddle stir on a drill press and turn it on slow, then leave it stir for a half hour or so. My favorite stirer is 5 links of light chain, welded on the end of a 14" rod. It does a fantastic job of mixing, but doesn't beat up the can or cause bubbles.
I've stirred product well over a year old and had it all go back in. The other thing I use is a rock tumbler to turn the can kind of like a cement mixer. A couple hours of that and it will stay in suspension for quite a while.
John

Gordon Misch · Feb 7, 2021

Ugh, that is a genuine PIA. Kinda like getting Clydsdales to pull a real load. 8)

FWIW I have a pic somewhere of a Clyde standing on a sled being pulled by - I can't remember - Belgians, Shires? 'twas funny, nonetheless.

Thinkin' that's Nellie (Shire) and Burt (Belgian) mowing hay in my avatar.

Sorry for the hijack - now back to Stewarts, which I happen to favor.

Bearhawk Builder · Feb 7, 2021

Drill press, hadn't thought of that. I guess I'm not patient enough, stirring ekofill is the 'bane of my existence'. (Def - Something that is so disagreeable with your spirit that it feels like its existence might negate yours)
A little joking but I wish they could formulate it so it doesn't settle out to a dry cake on the bottom. And I'm an all in Stewarts disciple.

Dave Calkins · Feb 7, 2021

John. can yu give more details of your mixing chain please?

“...5 links of light chain...”. tailwheel chain? dog chain? go kart chain?

thanks.

Marty57 · Feb 7, 2021

Hardtailjohn said:
Put the paddle stir on a drill press and turn it on slow, then leave it stir for a half hour or so. My favorite stirer is 5 links of light chain, welded on the end of a 14" rod. It does a fantastic job of mixing, but doesn't beat up the can or cause bubbles.
John

Thanks John, great idea. Short video attached.
Marty57
https://fb.watch/3w6GIejDbD/

Hardtailjohn · Feb 7, 2021

Dave Calkins said:
John. can yu give more details of your mixing chain please?

“...5 links of light chain...”. tailwheel chain? dog chain? go kart chain?

thanks.

I use 5 links of light chain...the links are out of 1/8" diameter wire and are about an inch long each. I weld #3 to the end of the rod, so it's balanced. I'll try to grab a picture of one tomorrow.
John

Hardtailjohn · Feb 7, 2021

Gordon Misch said:
Ugh, that is a genuine PIA. Kinda like getting Clydsdales to pull a real load. 8)

FWIW I have a pic somewhere of a Clyde standing on a sled being pulled by - I can't remember - Belgians, Shires? 'twas funny, nonetheless.

Thinkin' that's Nellie (Shire) and Burt (Belgian) mowing hay in my avatar.

Sorry for the hijack - now back to Stewarts, which I happen to favor.

Haha... Clydes are great on a mower! They can cover some ground!

It's actually not a PIA at all.. When I know I'll be painting tomorrow, I throw the unopened can on the roller and give it a couple hours or rolling, while I'm doing whatever. The next morning when I get there, I throw the open can on the drill press when I first get there, then go get the booth all ready and warmed up, by then, it's well mixed. Just gotta think ahead a little.
John

Charlie Longley · Feb 7, 2021

Marty57 said:
Thanks John, great idea. Short video attached.
Marty57
https://fb.watch/3w6GIejDbD/

Nice!

Charlie Longley · Feb 9, 2021

First fog coat is looking good! The gas company is going to love it. I have it cranked up to 68 degrees in here.

Charlie Longley · Feb 9, 2021

Finished!

Hardtailjohn · Feb 9, 2021

Here's the chains....

Charlie Longley · Feb 10, 2021

OK here’s my final review. This stuff is fantastic! Why isn’t everyone using Stewart’s system?

Bit of a learning curve switching from Consolidated Aircraft Coating products but well worth it. Once you figure it out the primer is very user friendly and easy to sand. I got a great result spraying in my drafty cool hangar. Little bit of dust in the paint but perfectly acceptable on a Pawnee. I am for sure going to use this product on my Super Cub project. If I can get a decent paint booth set up it’ll look really good!

Special thanks to Marty Feehan for taking all my calls and steering me straight.

Dave Calkins · Feb 10, 2021

“... a little bit of dust in the paint but perfect for a Pawnee...”

that should be a bumper skicker

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