• If You Are Having Trouble Logging In with Your Old Username and Password, Please use this Forgot Your Password link to get re-established.
  • Hey! Be sure to login or register!

Pa-18 w/150hp prop choice?

The only reason I'd buy a new borer, is so you can have a shelf prop flown out when you bend the new one. I agree with Skywagon that much of the performance between the three borer pitches and even a chopped 80" (which I currently use on an A model) is psychological. Given conditions at any mountain/valley strip are different every 5 minutes. So many more factors than prop performance. They will all pull a properly loaded cub (for the conditions, whether over gross or way under) off your 400-500' hunting strips all day. The problem is we convince ourselves we have to be able to land (and takeoff) from every strip at all times, and believe the prop has a lot to do with that---wrong. Give respect where its due. Easier said than done.

I'd buy a really nice used borer and use whichever for everyday, having a spare. Take the rest of your money to the bank and be ready to pay out for the minor mistakes here and there that are $5k a pop. Destroyed tailwheels, broken cabane V fittings, bent prop, overflow swallows your ski plane, on & on.

As for brakes, save your money some more. Bleed them, especially if you're going into a strip you know you want brakes. The originals due a fine job if maintained. If you're just dinking around in the flats you can maintain them less and still land in 200' with no brakes.

Buy AVGAS, build time, make smart decisions. These old cubs with the majority of AK mods do a fine job for normal working class hunters/adventurers. If money is no factor, disregard!!
 
The only reason I'd buy a new borer, is so you can have a shelf prop flown out when you bend the new one. I agree with Skywagon that much of the performance between the three borer pitches and even a chopped 80" (which I currently use on an A model) is psychological. Given conditions at any mountain/valley strip are different every 5 minutes. So many more factors than prop performance. They will all pull a properly loaded cub (for the conditions, whether over gross or way under) off your 400-500' hunting strips all day. The problem is we convince ourselves we have to be able to land (and takeoff) from every strip at all times, and believe the prop has a lot to do with that---wrong. Give respect where its due. Easier said than done.

I'd buy a really nice used borer and use whichever for everyday, having a spare. Take the rest of your money to the bank and be ready to pay out for the minor mistakes here and there that are $5k a pop. Destroyed tailwheels, broken cabane V fittings, bent prop, overflow swallows your ski plane, on & on.

As for brakes, save your money some more. Bleed them, especially if you're going into a strip you know you want brakes. The originals due a fine job if maintained. If you're just dinking around in the flats you can maintain them less and still land in 200' with no brakes.

Buy AVGAS, build time, make smart decisions. These old cubs with the majority of AK mods do a fine job for normal working class hunters/adventurers. If money is no factor, disregard!!

Well, now we all know that if we spend $5000 on a piece of airplane equipment, that airplane WILL perform much better......

Otherwise, good advice.

MTV
 
Bailey thanks for that. I see a lot of truth in your post. My current prop hasn’t let me down yet and has hauled every load I’ve thrown at it and we’ve gotten airborne everytime. Just being a new pilot and having never flown different props I wouldn’t know if they make a difference or much of one.
my cub does pretty good. I’ve never landed shorter than 350’ in a normal situation. My legs may be to short to reach the brakes very good. My stick hits the seat already. But I’ll bleed them when I put my wheels back on and see what that does for them. They won’t hold the plane past about 1800rpms on a run up before.
 
Non boosted Cleveland brakes stink on anything over 8.50s. I might even include 8.50s as too big to run without boosters. To me it’s a safety issue if you are landing anything off airport or confined. Heck, I want vented, boosted brakes if taxing very far in a stiff xwind. Brake fade sucks
 
Non boosted Cleveland brakes stink on anything over 8.50s. I might even include 8.50s as too big to run without boosters. To me it’s a safety issue if you are landing anything off airport or confined. Heck, I want vented, boosted brakes if taxing very far in a stiff xwind. Brake fade sucks

And I’m on 31’s
 
Exhaust,

Since your post was about props I'll make it short. When you get it back, bleed those brakes and make certain pads are in good order. always inspect a system end to end. a double puck brake on a 31 is more than adequate.

Your black "A" model is great looking. In the hands of a skilled cub pilot you'd be amazed. So spend your money and time to gain the experience and be that pilot. Don't throw money at parts (at least initially). Safety is a term thrown around loosely and prioritized differently by individuals.

I trust you're a hard-charger who wants to get after it...so take what you got and fly the snot out of it each and every day!
 
Bailey I’m flying as much as I can. Got the plane in July so we are still new best friends but doing what I can to learn how it works.
my pads are all good. Just put skis on few weeks ago so got a good look at everything. I think they needed to be bled before. I’ll skip the prop for now unless a screaming deal pops up. Luckily I can run auto gas so I get double the flying time for my money!
 
Back
Top