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Thread: CP machine tool foot shear

  1. #1

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    CP machine tool foot shear

    I finally found a foot shear for sale fairly local, it's a CP 5216 model. I have very limited experience using a foot shear, so I'm not sure if CP is a reputable brand or not... Anybody here have any thoughts or recommendations? I'm to the point where I'll be making interior panels before too long, and it seems like a shear is a must-have tool, just not sure what to look for...
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    Cub junkie's Avatar
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    I've seen one but never used one. They look to be built similar to other name brands. Any used shear is all about the condition of the blade. Mine is a wysong 52" The usual 16ga. rated shear kind of struggles with a full length cut of 16 ga. mild steel. I will cut .050 4130 in 12" lengths. As far as aluminum I've done 2024 T3 in 3 ft lengths of .071. Anything in 032,025 and thinner doesn't work the shear hard at all.
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    What's one worth? This one, the guy bought new 10 years ago, used it for 2 jobs, then got put into storage, where it's been since. He says that it hasntvmade over 30 cuts...
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    Hardtailjohn's Avatar
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    I've had one for about 25+ years. It's fine. Not near the price of a Tensmith or Pexto...but straight is straight and this cuts straight. I took the blades down to a saw shop right away, when I got it, as I couldn't get it to cut paper smooth. They put them on a grinder and gave them the relief cuts and angles that they're supposed to have, and it was about the best $100 I've spent! It just slices through everything, nice and smooth and straight. As far as value, I'd really say it's got to be between $500 and $1,000, but without pictures and seeing it, I'd hate to guess. Good luck!
    John
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    mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    better yet.. I have this one... can't bend a long strait piece accurately, but the shear and rollers work great...

    https://www.grizzly.com/products/gri...-machine/g0629
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  7. #7
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Here are some comparisons. New shears are expensive but properly treated will last a life time.
    https://www.aucto.com/bid/2013-cp-ma...-shear/3642294
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/391990226480

    If the shear you are looking at is as represented here, it should be in excellent shape. Are the removeable extension arms there? They are helpful for larger pieces. When you get it in place be certain it is setup correctly. The blade spacing is important. Place two pieces of paper on the shear, step on the foot, the top piece of paper should shear with the bottom piece just bending over.

    Look at the condition of the two blades, particularly at the right edge which is always used. Look for damaged edges and nicks. If there are any, they are good for price reducing negotiations. Each blade has 4 edges. So are easily turned over/around. If that shear was only used 30 times and was stored in a good environment, with the possible chip on a blade, it should be as good as new.
    N1PA
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    I bought a 52” Grizzly about 10 years ago and I and another builder have used it quite a bit. It has held up well to our light duty uses with aluminum and kydex. And shorter pieces of steel are fine too.

    Early on I realized the alignment edge on the left side wasn’t square with the blade but there is an adjustment for that.

    It isn’t a production machine but then no foot shear is.
    "Fast is fine, but accuracy is everything." Wyatt Earp
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    Thanks for all the input! He's going to video cutting a piece of paper and send to me, so I'll get a pretty good idea of how it cuts before I make the drive to check it out. It does have the extension arms.
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  10. #10
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1934A View Post
    Thanks for all the input! He's going to video cutting a piece of paper and send to me, so I'll get a pretty good idea of how it cuts before I make the drive to check it out. It does have the extension arms.
    Don't worry about that, it is an easy adjustment. Probably best done after you have it located in it's new home.
    N1PA
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  11. #11
    Cub junkie's Avatar
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    A great tool to have. The new prices can give you a heart murmur. I paid $1957.00 for my shear in 1991.

  12. #12
    Hardtailjohn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike mcs repair View Post
    better yet.. I have this one... can't bend a long strait piece accurately, but the shear and rollers work great...

    https://www.grizzly.com/products/gri...-machine/g0629

    I always thought one of those would be as handy as a shirt pocket!!
    John
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  13. #13
    mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1934A View Post
    Thanks for all the input! He's going to video cutting a piece of paper and send to me, so I'll get a pretty good idea of how it cuts before I make the drive to check it out. It does have the extension arms.
    shearing PAPER, and metal require 2 different gap settings between blades..... what's good for paper, is too narrow for thicker metal use...

  14. #14
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike mcs repair View Post
    shearing PAPER, and metal require 2 different gap settings between blades..... what's good for paper, is too narrow for thicker metal use...
    That is what I was taught by a good friend who was in the sheet metal business for decades. Using two pieces of paper to set up the shear as I described is what is recommended for our general aircraft usage. It the gap is too wide the edges will be torn not sharp. My shear was set up like this 40+ years ago and I haven't had to touch it since.

    Using two pieces of paper as a setup gauge, only cutting one piece with the second piece bending over the edge makes the gap the thickness of one piece of paper.

    I do not use the foot shear for thick .125 aluminum or 1/16"+ steel. That's where a band saw or table saw are used.
    N1PA

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