DJ
MEMBER
Javron Cub Complete
- Thread starter Mauleguy
- Start date
Paul Heinrich
PARTNER
Illinois & Wisconsin
Impressive performance and piloting skills!!! Thanks for sharing!
Mauleguy
MEMBER
Yes, I have stated I think before but maybe not here that for me slats don't make sense for my kind of flying. I want to see where I am going and what I need to miss and with high angles of attacK (which is where the slats work) they are not going to do me much good for landing.
I believe for me to slow down and still seeing where I am going it is either bigger flaps or flaps that work better i.e. Double Slotted flaps. I think slats do add a great margin of safety in the on the edge slow flight stuff but I feel I am past that danger point in my life now. I do also use VG's for the added flight benefits they offer and almost zero weight penalty. I don't like to hit my tail first for a lot of reasons and that is all you can do with slats if they are working. I think slats do offer a good benefit in slowing down to get a better look at a spot that is a potential landing spot and the slower you can fly the better the look you can get but I don't want the weight penalty for the occasional use for that. If you like them by all means do not take them off, I am old school in a lot of ways.
Greg
mvivion
SPONSOR
Bozeman,MT
REALLY nice demo video, Greg! That is some very impressive performance, particularly with a stock wing. Light is right, obviously.
MTV
Cub junkie
Registered User
My Moms basement
Nice paint choice. Doesn't look like a bag of Skittles was dumped in the paint mixer.
RVBottomly
PATRON
Asotin County Washington (KLWS)
Mauleguy
MEMBER
So I machined every thing down to .090-.100 thick on the wheel halves, I drilled the brake rotors (The thin rotors that work with the 3 rivet brake calipers). I used the double puck brake calipers that use the 3 rivet pads and used my own brake pads that I have machined for others in the past (I don't make pads for the public anymore). I did not do any machining to the caliper housing, there just was not enough extra material for that to make sense. Thin washers but just regular nuts. Probably could save some more with titanium bolts and nuts
farm_boy252
Registered User
Norman wells, NT
do you have any opinion on/experience with the t3 suspension tailwheel from airframes AK? did you consider it or the acme option for this unit?
Mauleguy
MEMBER
You know a cub tail is so light and the way I land it I don't touch tail first but I have considered putting one on my other airplane Bushwacker. When it is heavy with a load I think either one would be really nice. My buddy with his Piper Pacer I told him he needed the T3 and he put it on and loves it. They can land at pretty high angles of attach just stock and that is the way he has always landed so it really benefits his style of touch down. I have never tried one but one of these days I may put one on Bushwacker!
Another impressive build in an impressively short time.
I noticed you said you used a stock engine mount, does that include a stock thrust line? Better visibility without the change? Do you think it works better in concert with angle of incidence mods? Just curious as I don’t have any experience with either mod but would consider the thrust line (for certified cub) during the next engine overhaul/rebuild.
I’ve always enjoyed your videos and appreciate your style of narration. I suspect the insights you have shared over the years have helped a lot of people through some of the initial learning curve of off airport ops. Sharing the thought process/methods you used is way more entertaining and honest about risk than cloaking everything in “movie magic” and making it all seem haphazard or carefree. When I spoke to you at JC a number of years ago you had indicated you were done producing films due to all the time required in the editing process. Here’s to hoping you’ve had a change of heart and want to share some more of your adventures, airplanes, and flying skills.
cheers
I noticed you said you used a stock engine mount, does that include a stock thrust line? Better visibility without the change? Do you think it works better in concert with angle of incidence mods? Just curious as I don’t have any experience with either mod but would consider the thrust line (for certified cub) during the next engine overhaul/rebuild.
I’ve always enjoyed your videos and appreciate your style of narration. I suspect the insights you have shared over the years have helped a lot of people through some of the initial learning curve of off airport ops. Sharing the thought process/methods you used is way more entertaining and honest about risk than cloaking everything in “movie magic” and making it all seem haphazard or carefree. When I spoke to you at JC a number of years ago you had indicated you were done producing films due to all the time required in the editing process. Here’s to hoping you’ve had a change of heart and want to share some more of your adventures, airplanes, and flying skills.
cheers
Mauleguy
MEMBER
I did use the stock one supplied with the Javron kit, I think it has more thrustline built into it then maybe a Piper mount does. It sure looks like it when compared to other cubs. I almost had Jay build me one with the thrustline built into that was 2" lower but I was going to use Vetterman exhaust with heat muffs on both sides. I was pretty sure if I did I would have cowling fit issues, to be honest I did not want to deal with the issues the lower thrustline mount would have made. I had a thrustline mount when I built Got Rocks Cub with 0-360 but I did the 2" drop so I did not loose visibility and liked it but I had to cut my exhaust in a bunch of places to get the cowling to fit. I used a company called Custom Exhaust on that cub and they make nice product but it was a shame to have to cut all the CNC mandrel bent parts to get the lower rails to work the way I wanted it to look.
Thank you for the encouragement on the film/video. I am really thinking about doing it again, I need all knew equipment now because all of my stuff is dated. So I will probably start getting some gear and figure it out again. I won't do a long video just short segments on adventuring, building stuff etc.
Greg
hotrod180
FRIEND
Port Townsend, WA
sorry ryan just throwing in a little humor.
This site needs a double-like button!!
hotrod180
FRIEND
Port Townsend, WA
Greg, thanks for posting about the new Cub.
It's interesting to see what mods were incorporated......
and even more so to see which ones weren't.
I see in the specs you mentioned dual impulse Slicks.
320's generally just have an impulse on one (RH?) mag--
I'm curious as to why you put an impulse on both mags?
It's interesting to see what mods were incorporated......
and even more so to see which ones weren't.
I see in the specs you mentioned dual impulse Slicks.
320's generally just have an impulse on one (RH?) mag--
I'm curious as to why you put an impulse on both mags?
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Take the starter off your wagon Eric and I bet you’ll figure out why
Greg,
Congrats on the Javron build. I think it's the only way to go. Obviously you were trying to save weight. I thought everyone trying to save weight went with like a Catto prop, especially cause that xtra weight of a metal propeller is on the nose. Why did you go with the Borer and not a way lighter Catto type prop?
Congrats on the Javron build. I think it's the only way to go. Obviously you were trying to save weight. I thought everyone trying to save weight went with like a Catto prop, especially cause that xtra weight of a metal propeller is on the nose. Why did you go with the Borer and not a way lighter Catto type prop?
Mauleguy
MEMBER
I figured someone would ask that. I am not against Catto props but I am old school in a lot of ways. Here was my reasons to start with, I know what a Borer is going to get me (2700 rpm on takeoff). I was not sure the Catto would match it so I decided to start with what I know. I wanted the engines full HP on takeoff. I also like the idea of a propeller that is somewhat field repairable and that is actually my first reason. I put a little over 25 hours on it with the Borer and then tried out Carey Grays Catto 84/37. He helped me do a real crude test.
Here is the test and results , like I said this was nothing fancy not that all technical.
I loaded up the airplane with full fuel minus what I burned getting there (8 gallons) and Loni helped me throw 450 lbs of lead shot in the back seat. So the airplane was at around 1850-1900 pounds.
The first test was a full power run no flaps no brakes just rudder for directional control and not trying to get airborne (controls neutral), we guessed at what was maybe 100 yards or so for the distance and this was timed with a stopwatch.
This first test really had the propellers within a few 10th's of a second with the borer nosing it out. In the seat of my pants though it felt like the Borer was pulling harder and I was surprised at the times. The Catto only turned 2400 rpm on take off.
My second test was 2000 ft to 3000 ft climb at full power and tried to maintain the same airspeed for both propellers. The Borer beat it by 10 seconds.
I did not do a cruise comparison but my guess is that I would give up cruise speed with the Catto because I am going to have to pitch the propeller even flatter than 37 to make it work as well as the 82/41
So unless someone else can prove me wrong I guess I will live with the Borer.
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Greg,
One other question. Again, most experimental builders go with the electronic mags and usually the P mags. What was you reasoning not to use those but to use ordinary Slick mags? Also, if you're ever headed through western Montana; I'd like to meet you sometime. You're the real deal.
One other question. Again, most experimental builders go with the electronic mags and usually the P mags. What was you reasoning not to use those but to use ordinary Slick mags? Also, if you're ever headed through western Montana; I'd like to meet you sometime. You're the real deal.
Mauleguy
MEMBER
That goes back to old school vs new school. I have had electronic ignition on Bushwacker (original 1.0) and it seemed to actually work well until it did not. In that system I had 1 slick mag with impulse and the other lightspeed with hall effect. I thought that made sense from the standpoint of not being stranded somewhere by the electronic one failing. I think it worked pretty good for a year or so and then it started with intermittent problems. I contacted Lightspeed and he said I had a wiring problem that it would either work or not work. He kind of pissed me off, did not find him very helpful and decided I know old school and can fix that Sh$# myself. Kind of like having an old Chevy pickup with a small block chevy and no electronics. Nice to be able to work on something without having to have an electrical engineering degree and 100K dollars in equipment to figure out the problem.
There are probably better systems now, that was more than 10 years ago.
There are probably better systems now, that was more than 10 years ago.
wireweinie
FOUNDER
Palmer, AK
DJ
MEMBER
Bolivia
If the Borer is turning 2700 on takeoff, what RPM does it turn in a climb?
Sent from my SM-G965U1 using SuperCub.Org mobile app
Sent from my SM-G965U1 using SuperCub.Org mobile app
wireweinie
FOUNDER
