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Atlee Dodge Wing Jack

K

KevinJ

Registered User
Canyon, tx
Does anyone have any detailed pictures of their wing jack or one like it that attaches to a high lift jack? Top, middle and bottom fixtures.
 
Not Atlee but still gets it done. Hose clamps holding 2x4 to jack also works for me out in the woods.

Gary
 

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The supports and attachments holding the 2x4 to the jack are just steel scraps welded together. The top piece bolted through the jack's hole holds it on, and the bottom has a cup for the 2x4 on the side of the jack. The silver square U-bolt clamp was added in case the bottom welded cup walks away from the 2x4 on lowering.

Actually a few of these square 2" U-bolt clamps might also work alone. One at the top with the "U" around the 2x4 with the flat cross piece bolted through the top of the jack's holes to let the wood slip up and down, and one at the bottom with the "U" around the jack bolted through holes in the 2x4 to hold it against the jack. Cut the top of the 2x4 in a concave "U" shape to better go around the wing tie down bracket and not slip sideways. I put some thin rubber covering on mine and then a hose clamp over in case the wood end wants to split.

Gary
 

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If I were you I would put a chain hoist in the ceiling with a spreader bar and some Atlee Dodge lifting eyes.
 
Agree on the chain hoist. Next time I have a scissor lift in the hangar I’ll hang one.....After we talked about the reversible rescue gear leg, I thought it might not be a bad idea to put together a wing jack also;-)
 
I've helped when using a wing jack like shown in the photos, but was always nervous about something slipping and poking up through the wing. Never tried doing it just by myself, which was usually the situation. A bottle jack on the inside stub of the axel worked for changing between tires and skis. But I always wished there was another way to do it. Lifting eyes on the wings and a boom truck was used for going on/off floats. Not an option when I was going to skis.

Though extremely useful, using a Handy-Man jack for any situation seems like courting with disaster. Used them many times. I'm also a bit concerned about the geometry of raising the plane by one wing like that. I realize the wing struts are in tension when lifting the wing, and hopefully all the other parts are holding hands. But it always seemed like "Is that the right thing to be doing?" I'm willing to be convinced, because it would solve a problem for me if I want change extended gear legs and struts on skis. I notice in one of the photos that the wing jack is not pushing straight up on the wing spar when the plane is in 3-point attitude, but rather pushing on the bottom of the strut towards the rear of the plane. Could that be twisting the spar? Is it a non-issue?

Jim
 
In my younger days when I was still ski flying, I would just cut an appropriate length of 3 in ABS pipe and slide it over the hi-lift jack. It would only work if you had Wing tie downs at the end of the lift strut. I never seemed to have a problem with it.
 
This^^^^^^is a great tip! Whatever will fit over the jack and the end will fit over the wing tie ring. That ABS DWV Scedule 40 pipe is tough. I use a couple of short pieces to stabilize my motorcycle floor jack. It deforms but has never torn or cracked. Thanks for the idea.

Gary
 
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I use a piece of 2 1/8” ID pipe 43” long (just happens to be the length of pipe I had laying around) and I put it over the vertical part of the wagon jack. The pipe rests on the body of the jack and not only slides up as the jack is raised but has additional stability from being supported by the vertical.

The stability to the plane comes from securing the plane. One tire can be blocked. I tie the tail in both directions so the tail can’t swing at all in either direction. I also tie the plane so it can’t move fore or aft.

I take a piece of wood that will fit through the tie down ring along the strut and put the end of my pipe over the tie down ring. The wood protects the lift strut.

I might add that you should not be using the factory tie down ring to tie down the plane. Use the Dodge tie down that goes around the spar. You can improvise by putting a piece of seat belt around the spar so that the lift strut attach bracket is not involved in the securing the plane when tiying it down.

I see someone suggested using PVC while I was taking pictures Same plan. If I were to use PVC I would use schedule 80 as opposed to schedule 40.
 

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Reference post by 55 Pa-18A, #15: removing gear has a greater risk. A longer fall. I would suggest use the wing jack, AND a bottle or floor jack under the cabane V AND either tie down the opposite wing or hang some weight on the opposite wing tie down. Leave Cabane V and change one gear leg at a time.
 
I made an adaptor for top of atlee jack to attach to the hurricane tiedown on stewarts wildcat cub because it has aluminum strut attach brackets that I was not wild about pushing on....


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org
 
If you are just messing with the wheel or ski, just put about a 10' long 4x4 under the main gear and lift it up. Have a saw horse, barrel or some other brace next to you to slid under the lever to hold it up and go to work. You can notch the lever where it goes under the gear to keep it from sliding. If you are out in the sticks, cut a log for the lever, you can make a brace from 2 poles lashed together in a x. Easy to use alone and a lot steadier than lifting on the wing.
 
Here's my other jack out in the woods. Two adventurers braving the elements in late April-early May when it's time to switch gear. Fairbanks melts out quick but these big deep lakes wait until Memorial Day. Best time of the year to fly tires, fish, and hunt bears.

Note the ice screws keeping the gear in check.

Gary
 

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I was fortunate enough to not need a jack. My gunner was 6' 8". Take off from no snow..........fly to hunting area........ he would lift wing while I changed to skis. Reverse process for trip home. :snipersmile:
 
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