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Windowed lower door

beau206

Registered User
Snohomish, WA
Hello all - new member and SC owner here.

I recently purchased a 77 PA-18-150, and I'm interested in swapping out my fabric covered lower door with a windowed version. I want to keep my current door just in case I want to switch back later.

Is there anywhere that sells the lower door already modified? If not, what's the recommended process? Buy a lower door from univair, buy some lexan, and go at it? Any pointers would be greatly appreciated!
 
PM me, I have a new matching top and bottom door (black) from a 1979 with plastic I want to sell.
 
I think you will need some tabs welded on the upper frame like this:

36CC17AD-ACB1-4610-92DE-D646ECF41372.jpeg
 

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I grabbed a picture of it because I wanted to do the same thing. Imitation is the highest form of flattery they say. :lol:
 
I was told that cubcrafters uses a double sided 3M tape on some of their window applications. Saw a nice -18 earlier this fall with the lower glass attached that way. I may try it next time.
 
I was told that cubcrafters uses a double sided 3M tape on some of their window applications. Saw a nice -18 earlier this fall with the lower glass attached that way. I may try it next time.

And how many of the d windows have blown out of the carbon cubs? A bunch. You can’t fly with the windows open.


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I was told that cubcrafters uses a double sided 3M tape on some of their window applications. Saw a nice -18 earlier this fall with the lower glass attached that way. I may try it next time.

Kevin, if you get the glass in your door then you’ll have to start flying with pants on.
 
The major benefit of a clear lower door for me was the ability to see the right skis and floats. Skis in deep snow looking for overflow water especially in turns. On floats watching the water line with a heavy load while gradually inching up to get on step. Tracking fur animals like wolves from above was made easier with less banking and S-turning. And the dogs in back liked to have a look out too.

Gary
 
And how many of the d windows have blown out of the carbon cubs? A bunch. You can’t fly with the windows open.


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It just needs a C channel installed on the front edge. Couple guys have done It.
Of course while you’re doing that a few mm thicker wouldn’t hurt either.


Transmitted from my FlightPhone on fingers...
 
The major benefit of a clear lower door for me was the ability to see the right skis and floats. Skis in deep snow looking for overflow water especially in turns. On floats watching the water line with a heavy load while gradually inching up to get on step. Tracking fur animals like wolves from above was made easier with less banking and S-turning. And the dogs in back liked to have a look out too.

Gary
I did it (ok had it done) primarily for back visibility and its really helpful when landing from back there.
 
I did mine....it appears it was just for practice since it cracked on the last rivet...lol. I’ll try again after I get over messing up the first oneB382D2C0-31D5-482E-B941-C6264B46BD3D.jpgs oh
i stop drilled it just to make myself feel better
 

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I did mine....it appears it was just for practice since it cracked on the last rivet...lol. I’ll try again after I get over messing up the first oneView attachment 52660s oh
i stop drilled it just to make myself feel better

Fun fact, don’t use locktite thinking that will help hold the screws when you don’t want to crank them down tight. It will crack the plastic as you walk away.


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Oversize holes in the material and nylon (or ?) washers under fasteners let it grow and shrink with temps.

Gary
 
I don't have the tabs on mine. Just used pop rivets into door frame (I hate pop rivets but just replaced what was there with old glass. One big question is how tight is the door seal? This is a big issue at -20 not so much at +80. DENNY
 
I don't have the tabs on mine. Just used pop rivets into door frame (I hate pop rivets but just replaced what was there with old glass. One big question is how tight is the door seal? This is a big issue at -20 not so much at +80. DENNY

Make the forward and aft edges with about 3/4" overhang. Then put some thin foam under the overhang to kill the wind.

Web
 
Thanks for the all information - very helpful!

Excellent point that a replacement door most likely won't fit without alteration.

This seems to be more work than I was originally anticipating, but at least I have a better idea of how to tackle this project. Thanks again!
 
I welded tabs to the top tube so no fasteners in the door window junction. I then layed out my holes in the square door frame tubing. Drilled and then using a nut plate jig drilled the rivet holes. Used a washer on a piece of safety wire to pull the nut plates through the tubes and maneuvered into place with a scribe, clecoed, 3/32" stainless countersunk pop rivets for the nut plates and it is all installed with screws for easy replacement later. Also welded an Allen head cap screw head to the outside of the door latch so the door can be fastened from the outside with an Allen wrench.
DSCF5532.jpg
 

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I welded tabs to the top tube so no fasteners in the door window junction. I then layed out my holes in the square door frame tubing. Drilled and then using a nut plate jig drilled the rivet holes. Used a washer on a piece of safety wire to pull the nut plates through the tubes and maneuvered into place with a scribe, clecoed, 3/32" stainless countersunk pop rivets for the nut plates and it is all installed with screws for easy replacement later. Also welded an Allen head cap screw head to the outside of the door latch so the door can be fastened from the outside with an Allen wrench.
View attachment 52679

Fishing the nut plates through is fun, but they will be there and won’t loosen up for a long, long time.


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Oversize holes in the material and nylon (or ?) washers under fasteners let it grow and shrink with temps.

Gary
FYI Gary, Plexiglass will expand and contract .090" for every 50 degrees of temperature change, #8 screw can go as large as a 3/8" in a long window and even bigger when the temps go from 100 to -50...you are looking at 1/4" or bigger if you never want it crack out due to a screw hitting it.
 
FYI Gary, Plexiglass will expand and contract .090" for every 50 degrees of temperature change, #8 screw can go as large as a 3/8" in a long window and even bigger when the temps go from 100 to -50...you are looking at 1/4" or bigger if you never want it crack out due to a screw hitting it.

Thanks Tim for the dimension info. I had my first Cub lower clear door crack at the tight fasteners requiring replacement. Next design used 1/16" Lexan and larger holes with slip washers under the rivets. We also extended the front and rear edges like Web suggests above to incorporate air seals made from P-shaped self adhesive silicone cold weather material. With dual cockpit heaters/defroster and a sealed Dodge baggage plus lower floor I could maintain up to 80* temp differential (outside/inside air) for the pilot's area. Too warm and snow on clothing would melt and frost the windows including the lower door. Flying a -40F was less of a concern.

Gary
 
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