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Thread: Back seat step missing

  1. #1

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    Back seat step missing

    I have a fuse that doesn't have a back seat stirrup step. What can I do, that is light, to "make up for that"? The Dodge step that would work that goes on the right landing gear is like 3 lbs. The stirrup was probably about 1/2 pound. Any suggestions for something light?

  2. #2
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    ????

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    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Did you lose it? It only bolts on the aft gear leg bolt and a tubing clamp. There must be lots of those floating around.
    N1PA

  4. #4
    Speedo's Avatar
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    Or fabricate one?
    Speedo

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    Bearhawk Builder's Avatar
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    I have one if you want it.

  6. #6
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    I have several. Did they cut the clamp off the longeron for the rear attachment? You can drill the Dodge step and get it down to 2 lbs. I had to put mine back on because my wife has been flying with me recently. I need to take the time to drill it.
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    Steve Pierce

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  7. #7
    Crash, Jr.'s Avatar
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    Somebody out there was making a really cool long step with triangular holes in it that looked interesting. Wish I could remember who though. Honestly I'm not a fan of the long steps up high, doesn't seem to help much for me getting in and out of a front seat. The middle steps are way better for front seat. Long step is great for fueling and rear seat entry/exit.

    If you're just trying to install the stock stirrup step it may be difficult on aftermarket fuselages. I know Airframes and Dakota don't include the tabs to bolt it onto the fuselage so you would have to add the appropriate tabs aft of the gear fitting and on the bottom of the fuselage by welding them on. Kind of difficult with fabric already installed. The long step kits from Atlee are probably the easiest to just bolt on and go. Like Steve said, you can save a bunch of weight on those with judicious use of a drill press.

  8. #8
    Amy's Avatar
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    You can add a clamp for the stirrup step as well. You be able to buy this from Dakota Cub. Somehow we missed re-welding the bracket on my fuselage during rebuild but were able to put a clamp on. It’s a little tedious but I have always found the stirrup step preferable to most long step installs (I am 5’2” with a 29ish inch inseam and the log steps are almost always too high up for my short legs).

    —Amy
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    I had to take my rear step off when I installed my belly pod (should have bought a belly pod that opened on the opposite side of the plane - oops). I've been going without, but I think I'm going to install a long step like that shown above.

    As for the weight, while I certainly understand the idea of weight creep - that ounces turn into pounds and pounds add up quickly, I also have a hard time believing that one or two pounds is going to affect my takeoff roll or landing distance. Again, I get it - it all adds up - but that small amount of weight isn't a concern on my radar when I'm considering which step to install.
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  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Crash, Jr. View Post
    I'm not a fan of the long steps up high, doesn't seem to help much for me getting in and out of a front seat. The middle steps are way better for front seat. Long step is great for fueling and rear seat entry/exit.

    ^^^^This! I don't know if Airframes will do it but Atlee made me a long step with custom clamp spacing. Put it where you want it. I rarely use the long step for anything other than fuel. A mid step is better for the pilot and a long step lowered a couple of inches is better for the passenger, and it isn't too low for fueling. My TK-1 gear's long step is lower than standard gear location and it's definitely more useful.

  11. #11
    Charlie Longley's Avatar
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    You’re welcome to mine. I am going to put in an Atlee long step.

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    supercub's Avatar
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    Can the Atlee long step be added to the gear after it's covered? If so, what's the best way to do it? Thanks

  13. #13
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by supercub View Post
    Can the Atlee long step be added to the gear after it's covered? If so, what's the best way to do it? Thanks
    Yes. But it’s a pain in the ass figuring where to cut. If you guess wrong you will be patching.


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app

  14. #14

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    Yes,
    My fuse came without a stirrup step tab. I had no idea they wouldn't have added that. I have paid lots of money taking pounds off this project and not going to put a 2-3 lb step on when the stirrup is all I need and works quite well for the passenger and the pilot. I think it was Amy that said I can buy a clamp from Dakota that would be the tab. I just wonder how much trouble that is to put on and would it interfere with a belly pod some day? I did get the belly pod tabs installed when I bought the new fuse. I don't understand why the stirrup would have been left off but it was.

  15. #15
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Kid View Post
    Yes,
    My fuse came without a stirrup step tab. I had no idea they wouldn't have added that. I have paid lots of money taking pounds off this project and not going to put a 2-3 lb step on when the stirrup is all I need and works quite well for the passenger and the pilot. I think it was Amy that said I can buy a clamp from Dakota that would be the tab. I just wonder how much trouble that is to put on and would it interfere with a belly pod some day? I did get the belly pod tabs installed when I bought the new fuse. I don't understand why the stirrup would have been left off but it was.
    Just add a 15" loop of 1/8" cable between the pod tap and rear landing gear bolt.

    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"

  16. #16
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    The long step is popular because it works with the pod. Put some anti-skid on the rear gear leg tube. Worked great for me but my wife not so much. Pretty ungraceful for sure. Airframes or Univair fuselage?
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers

  17. #17

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    How do you fuel the plane without a step?

  18. #18
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stewartb View Post
    How do you fuel the plane without a step?
    I stand on the tire.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers

  19. #19

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    Skis?

    To me the utility of long steps is worth the weight.

  20. #20
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    LOL, I live in Texas. I like the long step for balance when fueling and back seat passengers ease of getting in and out. It's all a compromise. Down to 2 lbs.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers

  21. #21

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    Yep, compromises. Like how 35s add 50# more than 31s. And yet we choose them. And then talk about shaving ounces.
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  22. #22

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    I have stock steps on both Cubs - never use them. I just step inside.

    We also have stock steps on the J4 legs. We had a gear leg failure a while back, and now I don't let anybody use them.
    Tough little airplane - when I taxied it to the hangar I noticed that only one skinny AN-4 was holding the entire aircraft up. And there were two pilots aboard.

  23. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Kid View Post
    Yes,
    My fuse came without a stirrup step tab. I had no idea they wouldn't have added that. I have paid lots of money taking pounds off this project and not going to put a 2-3 lb step on when the stirrup is all I need and works quite well for the passenger and the pilot. I think it was Amy that said I can buy a clamp from Dakota that would be the tab. I just wonder how much trouble that is to put on and would it interfere with a belly pod some day? I did get the belly pod tabs installed when I bought the new fuse. I don't understand why the stirrup would have been left off but it was.
    They most likely did not put the tab on because everyone uses a gear mounted step in todays rebuilds especially if using a pod. Very good chance the stock step will intertfere with a belly pod door (may have to bend door as you open it ) and you will have to notch pod to make it fit. I use a long step, helps getting in the plane and with fueling. However I am not all that impressed with it. For a certified plane it works fine. I would prefer the rear section to be 6 -10 inches lower and the front step at gear bolt level. a experimental so I will be able to just weld steps on the gear at that point. The nonskid on the tube that Steve mentioned is great to have. Safe fueling is another thing to consider, the long step helps with that also.
    DENNY

  24. #24
    Crash, Jr.'s Avatar
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    Yeah very few to no fuselage builders include the tab for the stirrup step anymore because it just fell out of favor with “real” bush pilots. It’s assumed that if you just gotta have the stock step you can add a small clamp over the lower longeron to attach it.

    If fabric is already on then it’s too late and I’d just get an atlee step for your gear. If your gear is covered...well it’s a pain and a lesson that you gotta think ahead on a cub build before final assembly.

  25. #25
    cubdrvr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Kid View Post
    I have a fuse that doesn't have a back seat stirrup step. What can I do, that is light, to "make up for that"? The Dodge step that would work that goes on the right landing gear is like 3 lbs. The stirrup was probably about 1/2 pound. Any suggestions for something light?
    Put the long step on ( you'll love it)...........make up the 2.5# by giving up ice cream and beer
    "Sometimes a Cigar is just a Cigar"

  26. #26
    SuperCub MD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cubdrvr View Post
    Put the long step on ( you'll love it)...........make up the 2.5# by giving up ice cream and beer
    Ice cream and beer, that's rough, how about one or the other.. If you want the stock step just cut the fabric and slide a clamp around the longeron,no big deal. I probably have some old steps in the barn if you need one. The atlee long step is great. I am all about saving weight, but I am not drilling mine full of holes. If that thing breaks when you are out on the front end of it fueling the right tank, you will be coming down hard on a jagged piece of metal, right where you never want to land hard on a jagged piece of metal.

  27. #27

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    Airframes made the fuse. The stirrup step isn't for me; it's for the passenger. Now, the only way for the passenger to get in is with a stool I guess. I ain't carrying no stool! Or maybe I should give rides to Kangaroos?

  28. #28

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    I don’t have have a stirrup, got rid of the long step.
    Fueling - I stand in 31” bushwheel, there’s one on both sides.

    I rarely haul passengers, when I do I instruct them to put their ass on the door frame via bushwheel, grab turtleneck tubes and scooch into the back seat. Same thing getting out. Sliding the pilot seat forward helps swing their legs in. Not a big deal.

    Recently hauled this guy into a remote site for insurance assessment work. 6’5” 250 lbs, 75 years old, Only complaint, said his face hurt from grinning the whole ride.

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  29. #29
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperCub MD View Post
    Ice cream and beer, that's rough, how about one or the other.. If you want the stock step just cut the fabric and slide a clamp around the longeron,no big deal. I probably have some old steps in the barn if you need one. The atlee long step is great. I am all about saving weight, but I am not drilling mine full of holes. If that thing breaks when you are out on the front end of it fueling the right tank, you will be coming down hard on a jagged piece of metal, right where you never want to land hard on a jagged piece of metal.
    Dang Boz, how much beer and ice cream have you had to break a drilled step?
    Steve Pierce

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    Amy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cubdrvr View Post
    Put the long step on ( you'll love it)...........make up the 2.5# by giving up ice cream and beer
    As a Wisconsin kid, this notion is sacrilege.
    Proud owner of a collection of airplane pieces (sometimes in one big piece) known as the Oklahoma Kid.

  31. #31
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    Every Cub I have ever seen had a strap clamp for the rear step bolt. Never saw one with a tab welded on?

    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"
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  32. #32
    RaisedByWolves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cubdriver2 View Post
    Every Cub I have ever seen had a strap clamp for the rear step bolt. Never saw one with a tab welded on?

    Glenn
    My cub had the clamp welded on the fuselage. It came off during the rebuild


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  33. #33

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    Easy to wrap an AN742-12 around the lower longeron, with the willow mountain lower floor you have it’s easy to lift the floor up and get the clamp around from the inside and a small cut in the fabric. Will probably have to change out the rear gear bolt too, will need a longer one think is an6-27
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  34. #34
    Charlie Longley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by supercub View Post
    Can the Atlee long step be added to the gear after it's covered? If so, what's the best way to do it? Thanks
    Measure twice and cut once. I recently did one on a PA-12 with 18 gear.

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  35. #35
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    This is what every J3 and 11 I ever saw had. Less the ski tab

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    Glenn
    Last edited by cubdriver2; 11-15-2020 at 04:37 PM.
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"

  36. #36
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cubdriver2 View Post
    Every Cub I have ever seen had a strap clamp for the rear step bolt. Never saw one with a tab welded on?

    Glenn
    Usually a welded on clamp on everything I have seen.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
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  38. #38

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    Will the clamp then "interfere" with a future pod?

  39. #39

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    The clamp won't, however the front part of the step will (pod will have to be notched). The step itself can have interference with opening the pod door.
    DENNY
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  40. #40

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