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Tube cleaning for recover

My “welder” talked me into blasting my fuselage. I was probably going to do it anyway. Problem is he wants me to have it blasted then bring it to him bare to finish the welding. He says if I treat it with phosphoric acid it won’t rust.

This is the product I am thinking of using-
http://www.ospho.com/directions.htm

He has a Ford Model T hot rod project in his shop. It’s been there at least a year with bare metal that hasn’t rusted. He uses one of those propane heaters in his shop that puts out a lot of moisture but has had no issues with rust.

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I'm a one time 'expert' on stripping a fuselage. Drill motor and wire brush mostly. Hand held wire brush where needed. Scotchbrite pads help. Used oxy/acetyl torch to burn off goo and zinc chromate primer where it was thick if the brushing was taking too long or was inaccessible. It turns to dust and flakes but tried not to over heat the metal. I think the whole deal was then spray washed with a solvent.

Great A&P did two part Ditzler primer while I was out in the woods flying his plane and camping.

Gary
 
I have used Boeing primer before, the Old DP-40 that still had lead, and Variprime over the years, now with the clean air act BS I cannot even get toluene locally. Top coat I liked was PPG Aquapon, it was used as a chemical resistant pant, now no longer made. The new thing is PPG high solids epoxy in Gloss white which I have to buy in Idaho. Most other top coats comes off with the glues used for fabric. I am also sticking with Polyfiber, and polytone, they are tried and true products that are easy to repair. When it comes to stripping the paint, I take it to a local guy, he uses a mix of different medias and he does a lot of airplane parts, most tail feathers are $20 each. I cannot do it for what he can. I dont have to do any clean and it saves the customer money. Good luck, Tim
 
Tango,
Read through this thread and if anyone posted it and I missed it, sorry for the repeat but I will caution you on the use of silica sand. Good sand but bad dust, causes silicosis after x amount of exposure. If you have air supplied respiratory protection, no worries, go for it. We had a work comp nightmare years ago because caused by silica sand and exhaust pipe repairs. Silica dust infused with chromium oxide and lead dust from the avgas plus carbon. Long story, bad ending.

My favorite sand is 30/60 Green Diamond green garnet sand. Aggressive enough on paint and such, leaves a nice smooth finish on the steel with a good tooth for primer or powder coat to hang on to. Non toxic. I do recommend air supplied protection but can do ok with an N100 respirator with the green diamond. Have fun!

Oz
 
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