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Budget hangar heat


Well, it's better than a N'braska Rest Area:

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Thanks. cubscout
 
Curious about the forumla, it would seem that forced air, proximity, reflectors, etc would change the BTU output.
Nope, BTU/hour and watts are both power, i.e. rate of energy transfer - one in British and the other in metric (SI) units. How 'bout calories per week?
 
Does your hangar currently stratify by temp floor to ceiling? If it's not much - a few degrees - then moving air too much can cool it down via surface contact especially with the floor if it's uninsulated.

Gary
 
Nothing fancy but it is insulated. This will be just to keep the chill out of the air.

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I use a torpedo heater using Jet A. The hangar is 60x50 and well insulated. The heater was meant to be temporary but I just keep this hangar 45 degrees.
The kerosene heater used less than $100 of jet A $1.75/ gallon last winter..so my temporary heater became permanent.
I live in SW Ks. and the insulation is sprayed foam and the building is very tight..
Pretty simple installation, fill tank, plug in, adjust thermostat, top off tank every couple weeks.
 
Can't beat spray foam, for both r value per inch and for airtightness, nothing comes close. I have a flying buddy who's family has been in the business for 40-50 years. Spud cellars, hangars, you name it. When I built my shop and attached hangar (conventional framing) I had him spray my HydroSwing doors. The saying "insulation doesn't cost, it pays," is oh so true.

Both my hangar and crane building have radiant floor heat. The crane building is in town and I had natural gas plumbed right to the building when I built it. But I used an electric boiler instead of a gas one, primarily because an electric boiler is 100% efficient, no flue losses anyway. They are also cheaper to initially buy. My slab stays 50 degrees all winter.
 
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Can't beat spray foam, for both r value per inch and for airtightness, nothing comes close. I have a flying buddy who's family has been in the business for 40-50 years. Spud cellars, hangars, you name it. When I built my shop and attached hangar (conventional framing) I had him spray my HydroSwing doors. The saying "insulation doesn't cost, it pays," is oh so true.

I created an encapsulated attic with closed cell foam on our house when we gutted it. The stuff is amazing, the savings on energy cost is unreal. It is hard to deal with if you have any overspray!

sj
 
I assume you don’t have a gas supply or a place for propane, but I’ll throw this out. I installed two Monitor GF500 direct vent heaters here in the cold northeast, and they have heated 3000 sq feet for 20 years, basically up to mid 60’s and burned very little propane.


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Does your hangar currently stratify by temp floor to ceiling? If it's not much - a few degrees - then moving air too much can cool it down via surface contact especially with the floor if it's uninsulated.

Gary
Warm air rises and if there is no air movement the heat will stratify. Very slight air movement is what you want, according to the materials that came with my Big Ass fan you should just be able to barley feel the air moving on your arm hair (which for me is about 33-35% on the speed controller, vs 90% for summer which makes quite a breeze).
 
Is there such a thing as a heated floor mat? Something like that could be a cheap alternative to in-floor heat....
 
Curious about the forumla, it would seem that forced air, proximity, reflectors, etc would change the BTU output.
Law of conservation of energy means KW to BTU conversion is a fixed thing, thus a standard formula.

On the other hand, BTU does NOT necessarily correlate to "heat output", much less "apparent heat output"... There can be losses due to reflectors, inefficient designs, etc. Some "reflector" designs heat up the area aligned with them via "radiation", while other disperse it over a broader area. We've probably all walked in front of a radiant heater that could cook you if you stopped for too long, yet the air 10 feet away might be below freezing... A fan circulating the air helps even out the heat.
 
Curious about the forumla, it would seem that forced air, proximity, reflectors, etc would change the BTU output.

I've worked on a number of commercial construction jobs where old demo'd out forced air furnaces were used for temp heat.
On one job, the furnace was running full bore, but producing very little heat.
We blocked off about 70% of the air inlet, and presto! we started getting heat.
Less airflow resulted in a higher "delta t" (temperature differential) across the heating coil.
Running full bore, the same amount of BTU's were produced, but were absorbed by way more air....
so less of a temperature gain.
 
We have a waste oil heater in our shop... It will heat our 50X50 shop to 70 degrees or more at about 8 to 10 gallons a day. Just set the thermostat and it will burn that oil very clean with no visible smoke out the exhaust stack.

We get the oil for Free from various auto shops, local mechanics and people that do their own auto oil changes... we have a 275 gallon tank on a trailer that we use to transfer large amounts from a couple of the shops. A small Gas powered transfer pump gets that job done. Main expense is the electricity to run it.

Some drawbacks is it does need some periodic maintenance to keep it running right.. we do that start of the heat season and probably two to three times during the winter. Maintenance includes cleaning the oil inlet screen, burn nozzle and cleaning out around the burn chamber. We also have a lot of storage. Two 350 gallon feeder tanks and a couple storage tanks of 750 and 1000 gallons. We keep the feeder tanks inside a concrete “tub” so it contained any possible spillage. It is also very loud. The main heater is inside our parts room and with it running you can not hold a normal conversation near it without an elevated voice to almost a yell.

Brian


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I've learned not to use that sort of container. Old acetone bottle for me to prevent mistakes....
Well, since I personally think Gatorade tastes pretty much like what I'm putting in that bottle, it's not an issue for me – not interested in drinking either one! But I do like the large mouth on the bottle, and given that it's an "orange" Gatorade bottle, it's a bit better "camouflaged" if I need to carry it into an FBO... LOL
 
Menards has hanging fan forced electric heaters that are reasonable and easy to install 7500 watts 40amp 240 vac ckt. they work well .
 
My hangar does not have a door. Seen it -36 below here some years. I do all my own maintenance. At zero with a breeze I can work with my coat off and bare hands if this is less then 8' away. Stand it up in front of prop and do what needs doing

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Glenn
 

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I should have mentioned... it's not really a rest "room".... :) (quite an artsy photo with the handsome guy in the mirror, eh? :roll: )


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As my dear friend Bob told his wife on their set net site in Alaska - All you need is a heated seat and a bag to put over your head so no one knows who it is.
 
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