Thanks: 
Likes: Originally Posted by Crash, Jr.
Use my favorite clamps with tab for fastener welded on them... AN741
Use my favorite clamps with tab for fastener welded on them... AN741
I'm just trying to figure out how you would actually get a clamp around the longeron without significant fabric work and an unsightly bulge when it's all done. IMO it would be far better to simply have the forward bracket somewhat wrap the longeron and use a cherrymax or two on each side to hold it to the longeron. That way you could just peel back the bottom cover, rivet it in place, then wrap the fabric back. Once you start peeling the covering back far enough to put 7 or so clamps around the longerons then you may as well just pull the fabric back a little further and just weld the brackets and tabs in place.
Regardless it would be FAR more difficult than just cutting a couple holes for inspection panels in the existing fabric.
Making a two piece clamp that would attach and leave a tab to attach the belly pan would be simple. You shouldn’t need to cut fabric outside of opening up the area between the longerons.
think about it...... it's very simple....
Guess I'll have to take you guy's word on it. I'm not seeing a bunch of clamps on the longerons holding on a tin pan looking all that aesthetic. IMO it's either weld on a proper kit or just do inspection holes.
Last edited by Crash, Jr.; 10-29-2020 at 11:32 PM.
Function over form, there is nothing about my Super Cub that is aesthetic.
You carefully put them UNDER FABRIC
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i take it you guys dont like my idea of a BAG. big *** grommet? glued in to the fabric??
Last edited by tempdoug; 10-30-2020 at 03:09 PM.
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Lol yeah I got that part of it. But now you have a bunch of little bumps all over under the fabric. I know function is the point here but on the spectrum of useful/aesthetic I think tempdoug's BAG (big a$$ grommet) approach is better for already covered planes.
But you're the actual mechanic here. If you think it would be a big seller then you should definitely bring a bolt on tailpan kit to market. Could be a big seller.
If a guy wanted to? He could attach tube saddles to the belly pan on one side and clamp tabs for screws on the other. Engage the saddles and tip into place for the screws. Making tabs that wouldn't show wouldn't be hard to do. Or make pivoting saddles on one side that open and close with a pressure screw. The attach fixtures would be 100% attached to the belly pan. No tabs.
Last edited by stewartb; 10-30-2020 at 12:23 PM.
I do, simple just needs to be close to structure so it doesn't vibrate the fasteners out.i take it you guys dont like my idea of a BFG. big ******* grommet? glued in to the fabric??
Steve Pierce
Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
Will Rogers
OK, You guys have made the little grey cells start working. How about this idea for an already covered fuselage? Make a large trapezoidal shaped reinforcing ring out of 2024-T3 .032". Along the lines of Steve's reinforcing rings shown here.
Cut a hole in the belly fabric 1-1/2" smaller than the inside dimension of the ring. Cut a 45* at each corner to the inside dimension of the ring. Using a contact cement or whatever you like to use for gluing fabric. Cover the 3" around the inside of the cutout with the glue. Place the ring inside, fold over the 1-1/2", stick it all together. Install the fastener receptacle of your choice on the ring. Tinnermans and PK screws? There are numerous options. Make an aluminum cover plate. Simple. Size it to what ever floats your boat.
It may be easier to fold the crease in the fabric before applying the glue.
N1PA
I like it. How big are you thinking? I really need to replace the crappy plywood grommet in the tail of my J3 with something a little nicer for when I finally get around to fixing the trim pulley
Besides the benefit of exposing parts an under tail metal cover can reduce damage while on skis. Like drop the tail into crusty sharp edged snow or short stiff brush. I had to replace one fabric belly before learning the benefits of protective metal.
Gary
Whatever size and shape suits your purpose. If large and you think it is a bit too flexible, you can rivet some stiffeners on the cover plate.
N1PA
From looking at the abuse the fabric on my tail belly takes I would be cautious about anything that does not have a protected forward lip. Sticks/brush/ice/snow crust can all catch that edge and peel the cover and attached fabric back pretty easy. So I think Skywagon8a is on track with a metal trapezoidal cover however the forward edge should have a bit of a jog and slide into the belly for protection. This would allow most things to just ride over the edge without damage.
DENNY
Univair sells sheets of the plastic up to 2x4’. I make big ones where neededi take it you guys dont like my idea of a BAG. big *** grommet? glued in to the fabric??
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The length of the metal belly is optional. If I were building mine would cover the bottom of the fuselage to the boot cowl. Seal it with oil resistant weatherstripping. Simplifies cleaning and inspections. Weighs something but lasts longer.
Gary
Hey guys and gals. I’m new on here. So I’m thinking of installing a metal belly under the cabin section. I’ve already installed the aft section for the tail clean out. What are your thoughts. Also has anyone done under the cabin section. Maybe have some pics you could share with me? Thanks Nick
I have an A model with the original metal belly still installed. I'll snap some pictures of it next week for you. The access is really nice. When I eventually rebuild, I will probably lose the metal belly except for the tail and under the cabin...
A model with metal belly:
Szzzm
Is the plane already covered?
I had an A model with full metal belly. It was wonderful.
Factory metal belly didn't cover under the cockpit, that was still fabric. Factory panels weighed 9 lbs 10 oz.
I removed the factory metal belly on my A when I re-did the fuselage. The rear panel was kept but the rest was removed along with all associated tabs. As much as I thought I’d like it when I got it, it was kinda useless as it didn’t go forward of the rear pedals. So the only thing to look at was what I could see from the rear panel and the bottom of the cargo floors. Pretty useless IMO, but it made sense for ag use with a sprayer.
Now if it went all the way forward to the boot cowl, I’d have kept the front panel, but that’s it.
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I recall sitting rear gear fitting deep in snow with ice covering some of the nearby snow tops. Nice to have that metal but today a pod would make most of it unnecessary.
Gary
That’s true. I guess I’ve had the pod since before I recovered, but I still think I’d remove the middle panels. Belly fabric is pretty easy to repair since it’s not as cosmetically important. The panels had also taken quite a beating and needed to be replaced anyway, so that made it a no brainer. Heck, I’d guarantee they were the same ones that were on it when you buried them to the gear fittings.
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