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threaded ring terminals EGT/CHT

Looks to be silver soldered in. Using amp #8 ring terminal. Hole slightly large for press fit.

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Last time I saw those, they were actually on an Alcor system. Haven't seen them since.

Surprised that you haven't seen the Mouser stuff before. They've become my 'go to' people for electrical items of all sorts.

Web
 
Last time I saw those, they were actually on an Alcor system. Haven't seen them since.

Surprised that you haven't seen the Mouser stuff before. They've become my 'go to' people for electrical items of all sorts.

Web

Remember I don’t do electrical full time like you....

I been using digikey lately. Pay with PayPal and choose first class and it ships for 5$ even if it’s LARGE and heavier than they warn.

I just thought they must be available somewhere. Nice & clean looking.....


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app
 
Mouser is $7.99 for most stuff. It's nice to get $200 worth of stuff shipped for that!

Never have seen those threaded rings outside of an Alcor kit. Maybe something they had made of proprietary for them?

Web
 
Web,

What's your recommendation for connecting EGT/CHT wires in front of firewall? (exp)
The hardware that JPI provides is a real pia. JPI strongly encourages not deviating from their system. Is there some electrical resistance issue related to other connector systems?
Ive seen exp application where they use a barrel and set screws, still a little bulky, but saves chasing tiny loc washers around the shop and second guessing the integrity of your
crimps on ring terminals.

Doug
 
Those barrels with set screws are from Electronics International's newer kits. They're called 'gas tight' or 'overlap' connectors and work pretty well. If you don't like to work with those items, I'd still recommend using the instructions from JPI (very similar to E.I.s older instructions).

Some of the basics: VERY IMPORTANT to check the instructions to see if you can cut temp probe wires to correct length. Some kits, usually older, tell you not to cut certain wires. Assuming that you are using a kit that allows for cutting the wires to length, route the wires into place and trim. Strip the wires as per instructions and compare each conductor to the probe wire it will be connecting to. You'll notice that the probe wires are cut in staggered lengths so match this pattern. As the wires to be terminated are very small diameter, you'll need to double over the stripped end before crimping. When you insert the doubled end into the barrel of the ring terminal you'll see that it gives you more to crimp onto than a single strand of conductor. Crimp the ring terminal securely. Use a ratchet style crimper that will not release until the crimp is complete and stay away from the crimp style that pierces the insulation.

When you connect these wires to the probe wires, use the hardware in the correct order. Slide the heat sleeve on FIRST! Use a star washer BETWEEN the two rings to help maintain a good electrical connection and to keep the rings from rotating, which will allow them to loosen up. When both connections are complete, slide the heat sleeve over them and secure with nylon lacing string. When you secure the sleeve, notice that the connections will not touch each other because they are staggered. You'll also note how handy it is to find some of the threaded ring terminals that MCS Mike showed, above.

As for electrical resistance issues, stay away from the spade terminals from some kits. If they are crimped properly, they work well initially. After a couple of seasons, the repeated heating/cooling will cause the to become intermittent. I'm not sure if I've seen a system with spade terminals that did not develop intermittents over time.

Web
 

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