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Brake Lines

T

TxAgfisher

MEMBER
East Texas
I currently have hard lines from the booster to the gear leg, maybe 8" long on both sides. Any reason I can't just put another piece of stainless braided instead? Hard to imagine I'd give up any more pressure on that short of a run.

Thoughts?
 
Our Cub is stainless braided line from the master all
The way to the caliper... about 40 inches or so long... gets rid of all the extra fittings that can leak...

Brian


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
What kind of grommet etc are you using where it passes through the fabric? I currently have a 90 degree hard line AN fitting with a jam nut to the fabric where it passes through.
 
You likely have a bulkhead fitting. I recently removed hard lines and replaced them with SS braided teflon lines from masters to bulkhead fitting and will have the same from fitting to calipers. Simple.
 
For the SS braided, do you guys order them pre-made to length or make them up yourselves?

Thanks!
 
Myself? A local hydraulics shop makes them to order in an hour or two. The fittings are steel instead of aluminum but they work perfectly.
 
Mine are all Aeroquip 303, with bulkhead fittings. I made the outboards myself when I installed +3" gear legs. It's pretty easy stuff to work with. A very light film of something like dielectric or fuel lube on the inner nipple makes it go together much easier.
 
Just a thought I am not real fond of the one piece line for dealing with straight floats and amphib floats. Otherwise I like it.
 
These one piece lines sound just what I need but.............is there an STC? - certified PA18-150.

Thanks

Frank
 
Steve Pierce Wrote:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FCC0420
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM1101
Click to expand...

EXACTLY

AkPA/18 said:
Just a thought I am not real fond of the one piece line for dealing with straight floats and amphib floats. Otherwise I like it.
Click to expand...

This is how I do mine for that reason..

I have not had trouble with the high spot in the brake line, but if we do, we can easily shorten the line and reverse the installation and it will remove the high spot.

There is a bulkhead union in the floor with some custom made large area washers on both sides. THe union was is secured with an internal lock washer and permenant lock-tite. if it ever needs to be replaced you can cut it out and put in a new one in thirty minutes.

IMG_6532.jpg​


IMG_6534.jpeg​
 

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Brake lines coming out the center of the fuselage is a pet peave of mine. I bring it out at the gear fitting. Piper had nice fairings for the exits on the later model Super Cubs.
 
Steve Pierce said:
Brake lines coming out the center of the fuselage is a pet peave of mine. I bring it out at the gear fitting. Piper had nice fairings for the exits on the later model Super Cubs.
Click to expand...

So down through the floorboard near the master cylinder, then between floorboard and fabric and routed toward the gear and exiting the fabric near the gear?
 
Weld in a plate to install a bulkhead 90* fitting.
 

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I had a tab welded in similar to Stewarts. All lines and fittings above floor and easy to reach. Not a simple job on a covered cub but with the right IA it is can be done. Hard part is I had one of the cubs that need the dash removed to get to the front side panels so it was a major pain to get at.
DENNY
 
Mine come out just inboard of the gear legs through the belly - anyone have a part number for the 45 out of the caliper? Mine are installed like the drawing so I plan to flip them over and make new, shorter lines.

Steve, I also think that the 45's out of the master cylinder are AN3 - do they make those fittings you posted at Summit in that size or is it a different one since it's a flare?
 
-4 is a little more universal as most brake boosters and calipers use 1/8" NPT fittings which are normally found with -4 flare adapter nipples in a wider range of types/angles.
 
I used -3 with a 2 piece line setup for my Cleveland brakes on my wheel gear which works well for the wip amphibs. The amphibs come stock with -3 line running to grove double pucks.
 
Resized_20200427_212746.jpeg

Then put some stainless clamps on---seemed easier with -3. No big deal it all works
 

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Alright, looking for opinions - one option may be Steve's pet peeve and dropping them straight down. With the parking brakes reinstalled, I will have to cut some new holes in the floor. These holes will be forward of the support tube under the front of the seat while the old holes are just aft.

That being said, the new holes will need to be right where the boot cowl and fabric meet on the belly. Thinking I need to run them aft and outboard maybe - I think if I undo the boot cowl I can get access for the bulkhead fittings but I can't get to the old location the hoses were routed to due to the aforementioned airframe tube under the seat.

Does that make sense?
 
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