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Thread: Brake Lines

  1. #1

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    Brake Lines

    I currently have hard lines from the booster to the gear leg, maybe 8" long on both sides. Any reason I can't just put another piece of stainless braided instead? Hard to imagine I'd give up any more pressure on that short of a run.

    Thoughts?

  2. #2
    Grant's Avatar
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    I think it would be fine to do that.

  3. #3
    Steve's Aircraft (Brian)'s Avatar
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    Our Cub is stainless braided line from the master all
    The way to the caliper... about 40 inches or so long... gets rid of all the extra fittings that can leak...

    Brian


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  4. #4
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve's Aircraft (Brian) View Post
    Our Cub is stainless braided line from the master all
    The way to the caliper... about 40 inches or so long... gets rid of all the extra fittings that can leak...

    Brian


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    That is how I do it as well.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers
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  5. #5

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    What kind of grommet etc are you using where it passes through the fabric? I currently have a 90 degree hard line AN fitting with a jam nut to the fabric where it passes through.
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  6. #6

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    You likely have a bulkhead fitting. I recently removed hard lines and replaced them with SS braided teflon lines from masters to bulkhead fitting and will have the same from fitting to calipers. Simple.

  7. #7

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    For the SS braided, do you guys order them pre-made to length or make them up yourselves?

    Thanks!

  8. #8

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    Myself? A local hydraulics shop makes them to order in an hour or two. The fittings are steel instead of aluminum but they work perfectly.
    Thanks Sam D thanked for this post

  9. #9
    Crash, Jr.'s Avatar
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    Stewart, who do you have make those? Been looking for a source for a while

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    Alaska Rubber.
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  11. #11
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"
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  12. #12
    PerryB's Avatar
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    Mine are all Aeroquip 303, with bulkhead fittings. I made the outboards myself when I installed +3" gear legs. It's pretty easy stuff to work with. A very light film of something like dielectric or fuel lube on the inner nipple makes it go together much easier.

  13. #13
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Steve Pierce

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  14. #14
    AkPA/18's Avatar
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    Just a thought I am not real fond of the one piece line for dealing with straight floats and amphib floats. Otherwise I like it.
    http://thrustline.com/

    Takeoffs are optional--Landings are mandatory
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  15. #15
    coxcub's Avatar
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    These one piece lines sound just what I need but.............is there an STC? - certified PA18-150.

    Thanks

    Frank

  16. #16
    Grant's Avatar
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    Steve Pierce Wrote:
    EXACTLY

    Quote Originally Posted by AkPA/18 View Post
    Just a thought I am not real fond of the one piece line for dealing with straight floats and amphib floats. Otherwise I like it.
    This is how I do mine for that reason..

    I have not had trouble with the high spot in the brake line, but if we do, we can easily shorten the line and reverse the installation and it will remove the high spot.

    There is a bulkhead union in the floor with some custom made large area washers on both sides. THe union was is secured with an internal lock washer and permenant lock-tite. if it ever needs to be replaced you can cut it out and put in a new one in thirty minutes.

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  17. #17
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Brake lines coming out the center of the fuselage is a pet peave of mine. I bring it out at the gear fitting. Piper had nice fairings for the exits on the later model Super Cubs.
    Steve Pierce

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    Will Rogers
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  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    Brake lines coming out the center of the fuselage is a pet peave of mine. I bring it out at the gear fitting. Piper had nice fairings for the exits on the later model Super Cubs.
    So down through the floorboard near the master cylinder, then between floorboard and fabric and routed toward the gear and exiting the fabric near the gear?

  19. #19

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    Weld in a plate to install a bulkhead 90* fitting.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  20. #20
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam D View Post
    So down through the floorboard near the master cylinder, then between floorboard and fabric and routed toward the gear and exiting the fabric near the gear?
    That is how I do it. I'll get a picture.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
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  21. #21

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    I had a tab welded in similar to Stewarts. All lines and fittings above floor and easy to reach. Not a simple job on a covered cub but with the right IA it is can be done. Hard part is I had one of the cubs that need the dash removed to get to the front side panels so it was a major pain to get at.
    DENNY

  22. #22

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    Mine come out just inboard of the gear legs through the belly - anyone have a part number for the 45 out of the caliper? Mine are installed like the drawing so I plan to flip them over and make new, shorter lines.

    Steve, I also think that the 45's out of the master cylinder are AN3 - do they make those fittings you posted at Summit in that size or is it a different one since it's a flare?

  23. #23

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    Something like this but what size comes out of the caliper?
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-220-6412

    Right now I am thinking its a 3 for the 45 out of the master cylinder then I believe Steve said it would be a 4 to the bulkhead fitting and down to the caliper?

  24. #24

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    Can be -3 or -4. Doesn't really matter. You just need to get the right fittings and lines for what's there.

  25. #25
    RaisedByWolves's Avatar
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    I'd bet you mechanic has a drawer full of fittings that would work

  26. #26
    Crash, Jr.'s Avatar
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    -4 is a little more universal as most brake boosters and calipers use 1/8" NPT fittings which are normally found with -4 flare adapter nipples in a wider range of types/angles.

  27. #27
    AkPA/18's Avatar
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    I used -3 with a 2 piece line setup for my Cleveland brakes on my wheel gear which works well for the wip amphibs. The amphibs come stock with -3 line running to grove double pucks.
    http://thrustline.com/

    Takeoffs are optional--Landings are mandatory

  28. #28
    AkPA/18's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Then put some stainless clamps on---seemed easier with -3. No big deal it all works
    http://thrustline.com/

    Takeoffs are optional--Landings are mandatory

  29. #29

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    Alright, looking for opinions - one option may be Steve's pet peeve and dropping them straight down. With the parking brakes reinstalled, I will have to cut some new holes in the floor. These holes will be forward of the support tube under the front of the seat while the old holes are just aft.

    That being said, the new holes will need to be right where the boot cowl and fabric meet on the belly. Thinking I need to run them aft and outboard maybe - I think if I undo the boot cowl I can get access for the bulkhead fittings but I can't get to the old location the hoses were routed to due to the aforementioned airframe tube under the seat.

    Does that make sense?

  30. #30
    mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AkPA/18 View Post
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    Then put some stainless clamps on---seemed easier with -3. No big deal it all works

    stealing that idea!...

    did you make them or are they a part i can buy?

  31. #31
    AkPA/18's Avatar
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    Mike, I originally used the clamps off an o 360 intake tube. That worked fine for standard gear. One thing I didn't like is that the tabs for the screws were 180 from the brake line. So the brake line would be aft on the tube and the tab would be forward on the tube and stuck out in a way you could snag things. Like skin. With the larger tubed 3-inch gear those had to be made. The brake line is still aft on the tube but the tab is 90° on the inside of the landing gear tube. Steal away!
    http://thrustline.com/

    Takeoffs are optional--Landings are mandatory
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  32. #32
    Grant's Avatar
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    I use stainless firesleeve bands for this.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I have also used these but they are a little harder to fool with. I use the firesleeve tool and carefully cut the tail off with a whiz wheel.

    Stainless Zip Tie
    Last edited by Grant; 08-27-2020 at 06:47 AM.

  33. #33
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    I drill a hole in the floor board if needed and run the brake line from the parking brake valve to the gear leg between the floor and the belly fabric. Installed more than I can remember.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers
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  34. #34

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    My old brake lines used an adel clamp to an adel clamp to secure the lines. The new stainless braided lines are too abrasive to tie to the gear legs so I figured I'll use Griplock Ties with a short hose standoff. Simple and effective, and with the rubber they don't slip, scratch the gear, or get abraded by the hose sheath. Dang nice zip ties, these Griplocks.
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  35. #35
    NDRII's Avatar
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    I also used the fire sleeve clamp, but added this metal line clamp and silicone tape for friction/cushion to clamp against, from Aircraft Spruce, has been on for 10 years:

    Click image for larger version. 

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  36. #36

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    Griplocks and some 5/16 hose.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  37. #37

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    STEWART
    DAM!! That is a simple, clean, and neat way to do it. Now I am going to have to get me some of the Griplock ties.
    DENNY
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  38. #38
    mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Brake Lines

    Quote Originally Posted by NDRII View Post
    I also used the fire sleeve clamp, but added this metal line clamp and silicone tape for friction/cushion to clamp against, from Aircraft Spruce, has been on for 10 years:

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    Ordered some of those to have on hand also.


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app
    Last edited by mike mcs repair; 08-28-2020 at 01:31 PM.
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  39. #39

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    If you have a 3D printer, here is a model you can use for free:

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3519258/files

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    I used regular zip ties, but I am sure it would work fine with the griplock ties as well.
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  40. #40

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    motosix, NOW you tell me I admire all these small, thoughtful details you've incorporated, which add up to a nice package. It'd be interesting to see something similar for Cessna flat spring gear.

    Thanks. cubscout
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