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Thread: New kid on the block - Smith Cub

  1. #321
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Nice glass install on the lower door. I welded tabs to the top tube so no fasteners in the door window junction. I then layed out my holes in the square door frame tubing. Drilled and then using a nut plate jig drilled the rivet holes. Used a washer on a piece of safety wire to pull the nut plates through the tubes and maneuvered into place with a scribe, clecoed, 3/32" stainless countersunk pop rivets for the nut plates and it is all installed with screws for easy replacement later. Also welded an Allen head cap screw head to the outside of the door latch so the door can be fastened from the outside with an Allen wrench.
    Pictures in this thread.
    https://www.supercub.org/forum/showthread.php?58562-Windowed-lower-door
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers
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  2. #322
    CamTom12's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buzzcola777 View Post
    Under Floor Metal Belly:

    When I researched infos about this Metal belly, it seems that the main concern about this modification was scooping water(floatplane) or snow (on skis) into the belly causing all kind of problems. Here is what I suggest...

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    I had tabs welded by Nick when he built the fuselage.

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    So the metal belly goes under the metal plate. The metal belly is sealed with the foam. The metal plate is sealed with a rubber strip against the fabric (when installed) and snow will not be able to be scooped inside. Can't wait to try this!

    More to follow

    Dan
    My metal belly mounts very similar to yours. Nice work!
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  3. #323
    Hardtailjohn's Avatar
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    Dan, is that com antenna running up through the center of those ribs? If not, it's gonna stick out like a sore thumb and get beat to death by the fabric in flight......

    John

  4. #324
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    John, it is outside. Thanks for pointing that out!
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  5. #325
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    FABRIC - Part 4 - Fuselage

    At last, it is now time to take care of the fuselage.
    Started with the fuselage bottom and went with the ceconite heavy duty fabric. Easy to install due to the flat surface.

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    In anticipation of the overlap I marked the 1'' line using a gauge.

    For the rest of the fuselage, I chose the Superflite medium fabric.

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    To insert the fabric into the window channel...You do what you have to do
    This little iron from Top Flite is probably one of the best tool while covering.

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    I've glued wooden blocks and inserted them into the channels in order to hold the fabric firmly.

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    Time for grommets & tapes.

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    You don't want to run out of paper towel when gluing long tapes...

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    You can see here the Comm Antenna through the fabric.

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    Seaplane grommets / Bottom

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    From a dripping pan, I made the fairings for the rudder cable exit

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    Glued couple strips inside fuselage for the screws. Cheap fairings and easy to make.

    Dan

  6. #326
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    Seats & Seat Belts

    SEATS
    I have flown a number of years with the cushion base / lumbar combo manufactured by Oregon Aero and really liked it. So, opted for their seats and bought 2 RV-7 / RV-9 seats from them and trimmed them to fit the cub.

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    SEAT BELTS
    I bought the Crow restraint systems aimed at the RV Aircraft. Also got a set of retract mechanism on eBay that needed a bit of TLC...

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    Changing all belts with new ones...Measuring / Cutting & Sewing, thanks to my lovely wife!!
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    Here, I made a support for the retract belt (Pax seat)
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    ...and connected the shoulder harness with the retract belt
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    I let somebody else do the recovering of the seat cushions. A skill that I don't have...

    More to follow!
    Dan
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  7. #327
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    Upholstery

    Leather & Tweed material were used for the upholstery. I might not be loading a hind quarter of a moose in the cabin for now. I'll wait a couple years...

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    Started with the cabin roof. Notice that I made a slot cover for the Pax retract belt.
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    Using a heat gun, I was able to curve the leather enough to fit the shape of the ''D'' window.

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    Upholstery is pretty well done! Ouf!!

    More to follow.
    Dan
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  8. #328
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    Wheel - Hub Cap Cover

    I wanted to buy a set of hub caps but the price was ridiculous. Just for the kick of it, I beleived that I could make them using my 3D printer. Here is what I did: Name:  06-00010.jpg
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    Hub Cap sold by Aircraft Spruce

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    Little drawing...


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    Voilà, for a minimal cost.

    More to follow!
    Dan
    Attached Images Attached Images  
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  9. #329
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    Baggage Doors

    Now was the time to attack the baggage doors.

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    More to follow!
    Dan
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  10. #330
    Scott A's Avatar
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    Looking good! Thanks for the update. I have read through your whole thread of course.

    What is the width of your 3 in 1 shear? (sorry if you said and I missed it).

    Any of the big tools you bought back at the start that you have found you didn't really need? Silly question, one can never have too many tools.

    Scott

  11. #331
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott A View Post
    Looking good! Thanks for the update. I have read through your whole thread of course.

    What is the width of your 3 in 1 shear? (sorry if you said and I missed it).

    Any of the big tools you bought back at the start that you have found you didn't really need? Silly question, one can never have too many tools.

    Scott
    Hey Scott, no silly question here...
    The width of this 3 in-1 shear brake roll machine is 30 inches. It did 95% of all the metal work on the cub and on a bunch of other projects as well. I highly recommend it fo a small workshop like mine.
    Concerning the other tools...As you said: ''one can never have too many of them''
    Cheers!
    Dan

  12. #332
    Scott A's Avatar
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    Perfect, thanks! Was wondering if needed to jump up to the 40 inch size but looks like for what we need the 30 will do.

    Quote Originally Posted by Buzzcola777 View Post
    Hey Scott, no silly question here...
    The width of this 3 in-1 shear brake roll machine is 30 inches. It did 95% of all the metal work on the cub and on a bunch of other projects as well. I highly recommend it fo a small workshop like mine.
    Concerning the other tools...As you said: ''one can never have too many of them''
    Cheers!
    Dan

  13. #333
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott A View Post
    Perfect, thanks! Was wondering if needed to jump up to the 40 inch size but looks like for what we need the 30 will do.
    Keep in mind, aluminum comes in 48" wide sheets.
    N1PA
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  14. #334
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    They get expensive over 30''
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  15. #335
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    Fuel System - Fuel Probe & Gauge

    To complete the fuel system, I wanted a dual fuel tanks display that was accurate for quick reference of each tanks's level. I bought the Princeton Capacitive Fuel Level Probe (Non-bendable). You can find this probe now under RED Avionics.

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    Princeton Fuel Probe

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    The non-bendable probe mount on top at the highest point of the fuel tank.

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    You have to determine the length of the probe. You measure from the bottom of the probe head to the top of the tank. Add 1/2 inch to the measurement. This is the amount to shorten the probe.

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    Double-check your measurements!! Cut probes cannot be exchanged or returned...

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    Now you drill a 1/2 inch hole in the tank in order to place the rubber grommet.
    During the installation the probe will be press through the grommet.

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    Next step, determine the location in the tank cover and make appropriate hole to receive the probe.
    Since that the probe sticks out, I have to make a cover for it. You can see the pattern here.

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    Still using the 3D printer, this cover fits well on the tank cover.

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    To complete the fuel system. I bought from Electronics International their Digital Fual Fuel Level (FL-2) all compatible with my GRT.

    More to follow.
    Dan
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  16. #336
    frequent_flyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buzzcola777 View Post
    To complete the fuel system, I wanted a dual fuel tanks display that was accurate for quick reference of each tanks's level. Dan
    How does your chosen system give an accurate reading for both ground and flight attitudes? Does it have two calibration curves or perhaps a continuously variable calibration based on pitch attitude?

    If I had fuel probes I'd like them to be at least as useful as the sight gauges and I think that would need more data processing than available with typical off-the-shelf systems.

  17. #337
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    ''Does it have two calibration curves or perhaps a continuously variable calibration based on pitch attitude?''

    Well, Princeton probe stipulates that the output is 0 - 5 volts. I guess it meets the definition of variable voltage...I will be able to give you a better answer when this system is up and running. Maybe we have some players here that have the Princeton probes installed and could tell us if they satisfied with the accuracy...

  18. #338
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buzzcola777 View Post
    Well, Princeton probe stipulates that the output is 0 - 5 volts. I guess it meets the definition of variable voltage...I will be able to give you a better answer when this system is up and running. Maybe we have some players here that have the Princeton probes installed and could tell us if they satisfied with the accuracy...
    I'm sure the probe will give an accurate and repeatable output signal that depends on the immersed length. The problem is that, for any given fuel quantity (except completely full), the immersed length is strongly dependent on pitch attitude.

    I'm only curious because you said "I wanted a dual fuel tanks display that was accurate for quick reference of each tanks's level". Just wondering how you were going to do it. My mind wandered off to pondering a data processing unit that received raw probe data and ADAHRS pitch and lateral acceleration signals. Could be a fun project but I doubt I would ever install the probes.

    Sorry for the diversion. I'm enjoying your build reports.
    Likes Buzzcola777, alva1 liked this post

  19. #339
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    Windshield & Skylight

    The dreaded windshield!!! The fear of cracking it, cutting it too short and on and on...
    There is an excellent video made by Backcountry Cubs that explains step-by-step the installation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Na3UVc56HBc

    WINDSHIELD

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    Everything has to be perfectly centered. Take your time...
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    Notice that the holes for the inner & outer strips are offset
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    CAUTION! While drilling the holes in the metal strip I drilled also the both forward fuel lines. AAARGHH!!! I had to redo
    both lines!!!

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    To start with, I riveted in inner strip to the cowling and sat the windshield on the lip.
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    All strips ready to be installed. Next the outer strip is installed with machine screws
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    Lastly the side strips...


    SKYLIGHT
    For the skylight ,I bought a piece of lexan (3mm) smoke grey.

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    The front part is pretty well flat while the rear part has an angle to it.
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    The rear was heated untill I reaching a 7 Degrees angle which fits the fuselage.
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    I splitted a rubber grommet in two and squezzed it between the skylight and the frame (middle section).
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    All windows completed!

    More to follow...
    Dan
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  20. #340
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    The rear skylight part actually has three angles in it. The other two start at the forward center going aft diagonally to the trailing edge corner of the wing. Perhaps with Lexan this is not an issue.
    N1PA

  21. #341
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    Quote Originally Posted by skywagon8a View Post
    The rear skylight part actually has three angles in it. The other two start at the forward center going aft diagonally to the trailing edge corner of the wing. Perhaps with Lexan this is not an issue.
    It does not take too much heat to form it like you want. Actually, the skylight is the only piece were I used lexan.

  22. #342
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    Dan, Thanks for posting all these details on your build. This information is really helpful (I'm building a Smith/Back Country Cub in Anchorage). Question: Have you checked for any interference between the forward end of your control stick torque tube and the wood flooring / carpet? The front end of my tube rubs on the wood floor panels so I'm going to have to do a little modification to the flooring.
    Chris Gill
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  23. #343
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    Chris,
    I had the same problem.
    Instead of digging into the floor, I rounded the forward end of the torque tube as well as the torque tube connector.

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    Square end hitting the floor

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    Once the end is rounded,you now have enough clearance between the connector and the floor / carpet.
    I hope that this is what you where refering to...
    Dan
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  24. #344
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    Ooooh. I like that solution Dan. Thanks for the photos. I’ll look at this and get out the grinder when I get back to Anchorage. I also have to do a little grinding where the elevator control cable passes through a fitting on the back of the control tube and rubs..
    Chris
    Chris Gill
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