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Thread: New kid on the block - Smith Cub

  1. #241
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    No, you remove the cowl rails, one screw and nut in the firewall end and same on nose bowl end.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers
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  2. #242
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    If you ever have to do any maintenance on the accessories on the rear of the engine I'd think you'd want the swing out engine mount. The Husky doesn't have a swing out mount and it's a b***h to do anything on the rear of the engine.
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  3. #243
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    So being a newbie here with swing out engine mount, how does it work? You install brackets were the engine mount attachs to?

  4. #244

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    The mount pivots on the stock bracket. Just pull the two bolts on the right and it opens to the left.
    DENNY
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  5. #245

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    Way back in time I had to do magwork on an -18 on floats tied up on the Conn river. Working alone and needing to swing the mount. What a treat. I had every tool tied or taped to me during that session.
    Regards, Charlie
    Super Coupe E-AB build in process
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  6. #246
    DJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DENNY View Post
    The mount pivots on the stock bracket. Just pull the two bolts on the right and it opens to the left.
    DENNY
    Do you need to support it with a hoist?

    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using SuperCub.Org mobile app
    The heavens declare the glory of God; the skies proclaim the work of His hands. Psalms 19:1

  7. #247
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    Does anyone have a close-up photo of these stop brackets?

  8. #248
    RaisedByWolves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJ View Post
    Do you need to support it with a hoist?

    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using SuperCub.Org mobile app
    No just make sure the stock exhaust doesn’t hit the boot cowl. It will dent it. The stop is there to prevent that but get removed when the Thrustline goes on


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  9. #249

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    Quote Originally Posted by Buzzcola777 View Post
    Does anyone have a close-up photo of these stop brackets?
    Reread the post, it is STOCK bracket not STOP bracket. http://www.javronaviation.com/Engine...hment-Bracket/ This is how you attach the engine mount to the fuselage with bolts. The bolts are vertical take two out of the right side and the mount hinges on the left. Original cubs had an extra bracket on the mount that would hold the mount out. Mine was removed in one of the many wrecks/rebuilds the plane has had a 9/16 box open end wrench will do the same stick the box in bracket and drop bolt through the open end wrench will hold the mount flange. In 3 point the weight of the engine will hold everything in place. https://www.univair.com/piper/piper-...gaAkohEALw_wcB has the bracket to hold it open.
    DENNY

    edit: That may be a bigger box open wrench than 9/16 Try a few use what fits.
    Last edited by DENNY; 10-25-2020 at 12:16 PM.

  10. #250
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DENNY View Post
    Reread the post, it is STOCK bracket not STOP bracket. http://www.javronaviation.com/Engine...hment-Bracket/ This is how you attach the engine mount to the fuselage with bolts. The bolts are vertical take two out of the right side and the mount hinges on the left. Original cubs had an extra bracket on the mount that would hold the mount out. Mine was removed in one of the many wrecks/rebuilds the plane has had a 9/16 box open end wrench will do the same stick the box in bracket and drop bolt through the open end wrench will hold the mount flange. In 3 point the weight of the engine will hold everything in place. https://www.univair.com/piper/piper-...gaAkohEALw_wcB has the bracket to hold it open.
    DENNY

    edit: That may be a bigger box open wrench than 9/16 Try a few use what fits.
    Thanks for your post Denny,
    Got it! Makes more sense now.
    Dan

  11. #251
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    Electrical / Avionic and the like...Part 5

    I chose the Blue Sea Systems for this project:

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    ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover


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    ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Independent Circuits with Cover

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    Dual BusBar - 5 Circuit


    The positionning of the fuse blocks will be on the left side of the cockpit.

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    Start with a drawing

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    First trial...

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    Couple modifications done to the side panel in order to get the box in.

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    Here are the blocks inside the side panel. By removing couple screws, I'll hace a quick access to the wiring dedicated to the fuses.

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    Also, the blade fuse lights up when it trips...Cool

    More to follow

    Dan

  12. #252
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    Electrical / Avionic and the like...Part 6

    In order to eliminate wires crisscrossing behind the panels I have decided to bring everything that has something to do with electrical to a common place with a common ground. This common place is a junction box. Here is what I did...

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    First, draw a wiring diagram that icludes all components needed for Nav, Comms etc...

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    I colour coded these components for better references

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    So that I don't get loss with all the connections and wires, I made some sort of an Operator's Handbook for future references when repair is needed. Here are couple examples of it.

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    Here is the junction box with the molex connector as well as the DB-25s with the busbar. Mind you, it is a prototype...

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    What you see upper left is the Connection for the GRT Engine Information System, the Molex connector on it's right is the OAT (Data) + ILevel Grnd & Pwr and the DB-25 lower right has to do with EIS Fuel Press / Oil Press / Oil Temp /Voltmeter / Tachometer / Fuel Flow ans so on...

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    SEE WHAT I MEAN...

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    The junction box will be attached to the component's platform right in front of the GRT EIS and hidden by the central Ipad. I think that I will eventually replace it with a circuit board...

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    I have mention earlier that I needed a common ground. This a drawing taken from Kitplanes Magazine written by Tom Wilson titled ''Posively Negative''. Very interestling...

    More to follow...
    Dan
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  13. #253
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Wow, thats pretty cool. Very nice!!

    Bill
    Very Blessed.

  14. #254
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Rusk View Post
    Wow, thats pretty cool. Very nice!!

    Bill
    Thanks Bill

  15. #255
    RaisedByWolves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buzzcola777 View Post
    Does anyone have a close-up photo of these stop brackets?




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  16. #256
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    RaisedByWolves,
    Greatly appreciated!!
    Thanks for the pics!
    Dan

  17. #257
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    Electrical / Avionic and the like...Part 7

    USB
    Nowadays, a USB charging port is a must. I bought from the scrapyard a cigarette lighter socket assy for a buck and wired it so it can be integrated to instrument panel.

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    LANDING LIGHT
    I don't really want to to cut an opening for the landing lights in the wing leading edge. On top of that, the price for the landing lights is astronomical! After looking around I stumbled upon this company by chance. RIGID is the company, made in USA. I choose to install the light on the landing gear cabane.

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    Small but very powerful. Model D-Series Pro #601213

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    Made a bracket to fix the light support.

    For those who haven't see the promo video from RIGID, take a couple minutes to watch it. It is called: TORTURE - RIGID INDUSTRIES


    INTERIOR LIGHTING
    I intend to do some night flying with this aircraft. Without interior lighting it gets pretty dark in the cabin and if you drop something on the floor or anywhere else for that matter ... Well, you what I mean. LED lights have low heat emission and a low profile.

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    I made a drawing of the type and location of the LED lights. A potentiometer will be wired in order to dim the lighting system.

    Using the 3D printer, a supports were printed for 2 different types of lights.

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    First support: long strip dedicated for cabin / Baggage area

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    3D printer doing its job!


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    LED strip light installed in its support. This light is located in front of the ILevel under the instrument panel.

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    You see here the support for the ILevel (back) and light in front.

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    Second support, a square one: Cabin upper & lower panels.

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    A long strip in the back and 2 square ones up front.

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    Couple squares in the upper baggage area. Also a view how it is installed on top.

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    ...And 2 long strips in the lower baggage area.

    More to follow!
    Dan
    Last edited by Buzzcola777; 11-13-2020 at 05:29 PM.
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  18. #258
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    Throttle Quadrant - Part 1

    Having 2 doors on the aircraft brings 2 problems. The first one is that you have to re-route the fuel lines and the second one concerns the throttle. You don’t want the throttle to get in the way (cut-off position) when trying to exit through the left door. It is already difficult enough to get out of the cub as it is. I have seen few pics of 2 door cubs with the throttle installation and that gave me couple ideas. Also, I shopped around for a throttle quadrant but they were either too big / too wide for the proposed location. Furthermore, I want the throttle to be paired with the carb heat for obvious reasons.

    After considering all options, I have decided to built my own throttle. Once you understand the architecture and the movements of the levers, it is pretty straight forward. As you have seen so far in my previous posts, I like putting on paper the parts to be made. Here it is the drawing…

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    Took a little bit of brain juice here but it is a nice challenge to come up with a custom made throttle (read nuts!)

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    So, as per plan here is the plywood support and brackets for the throttle assy. The plywood received 3 coats of varnish.

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    For the Throttle Guide plate, it is made from a 90 degree angle bar aluminium 3/32'' thick. I made a pressing jig with a piece of 2 x 4 and using my 12 ton hydraulic jack (obviously an overkill...) and bent it into shape.

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    Here is the location for the throttle assy.

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    Using a dremel tool, I cut the openings for the throttle and carb heat levers. Also, inside the aluminium frame I will have a piece of teflon with guides that have smaller openings so that the levers don't rub against the aluminium.

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    More to follow...
    Dan

  19. #259

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  20. #260
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tempdoug View Post
    Tempdoug,
    Thanks for the post. I had seen these quadrants which are really nice but I would have to modify it for the limited space I have. Well, I'll give it a try with my custom made throttle and if it fails I'll give them a call.

  21. #261
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    Throttle Quadrant – Part 2

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    Now for the throttle handle grip, I bought a pair of bicycle handles and shorten it to the right length. I made one for the pilot and also for the passenger.

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    Took a broomstick and sand it down to fit the opening and...

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    threaded 2 holes into the throttle lever.

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    All the parts required to make this throttle quadrant are seen here. The teflon drums are 1/4'' thick and 2 1/8'' in dia. The friction tab plates are 6061 AL .050''. The throttle has a bottom hole in order to connect with the passenger's throttle.

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    Here is the sequence to put all pieces together. I think that by having a high contact volume with the large drums gives a very smooth and consistent travel, no sticking fore & aft. The knob regulates the right amount of pressure for the phase of flight. Really happy with the result!!

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    I was not satisfied with the grip on the carb heat lever. So I made a drawing and computerized it for the 3D printer.

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    I think it look and feels better.

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    As mention earlier I also made a smaller throttle version for the pax.

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    You can see here how the fore & aft throttles are connected. Aldo the rod is right below the door tube.

    More to follow...

    Dan

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