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Thread: New kid on the block - Smith Cub

  1. #161
    courierguy's Avatar
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    FWIW: Maybe it's the dry mountain air I fly in, but in 10 years of ski flying I've never felt the need for a windshield defrost vent (notacub, but a Rans S-7S, similar HVAC though). My cabin heat enters down by my toes, between the rudder pedals. I sure need it in my vehicles though, I wonder why my plane doesn't need it?
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  2. #162

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    When I get into a cold plane my breath and body heat instantly fog the inside of the windows. Warming to take off is more about defrosting than warming the engine. If you have any moisture in your clothes the problem is more difficult to manage. Opening a window to promote airflow Through the defroster is pretty common.
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  3. #163

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    Great work. My cub was set up with a rear seat heat box that go's directly to the dash for defrost, I have to be careful because it will make my GPS too hot. I run the stock floor heat through a scat tube under the seat to the rear. My wife loves the heat especially in the winter. My feet are usually too hot so I don't want any extra floor heat, in the winter turning on the rear seat heat helps keep the back of my neck warm. The scat hose is over 200 degrees thanks to the Attlee Dodge Hot Rod muffler. No right or wrong just things to ponder.
    DENNY
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  4. #164
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    All great comments Gents! Usually the pilot is comfy up front but the passenger suffers from cold. If I want to keep my wife supporting this project I better keep her warm in the back . Back to part 2 of the heating system...

  5. #165
    courierguy's Avatar
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    I probably don't have a problem with foggy windows thanks to my tail/rudder post junction being uncovered. A trick I learned here, to make it easier to keep an eye on that heavily stressed area. Numerous other leaky areas also, ensure plenty of airflow, winter or summer, for better or for worse, but maybe a fog free front window is a unexpected benefit. My vehicles are tight, thus the need for a defroster in them.

  6. #166
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by courierguy View Post
    I probably don't have a problem with foggy windows thanks to my tail/rudder post junction being uncovered. A trick I learned here, to make it easier to keep an eye on that heavily stressed area. Numerous other leaky areas also, ensure plenty of airflow, winter or summer, for better or for worse, but maybe a fog free front window is a unexpected benefit. My vehicles are tight, thus the need for a defroster in them.
    Courierguy,
    Interesting concept here. Would you have a picture of this uncovered area?
    Thanks!
    Dan

  7. #167
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    Quick question: What is the air temperature entering the cabin heat box / cockpit coming from the exhaust heat exchanger for a 0-360 engine?
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  8. #168

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    A 160 HP is over well over 200 degrees at the scat tube in the cabin, measured with one of them fancy temp guns. This is an Attlee hot rod exhaust with heat robber.
    DENNY
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  9. #169
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DENNY View Post
    A 160 HP is over well over 200 degrees at the scat tube in the cabin, measured with one of them fancy temp guns. This is an Attlee hot rod exhaust with heat robber.
    DENNY
    Denny, Thanks for your reply, very appreciated!

  10. #170

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    Outlet temp is dependent on airflow. How you pressurize the shroud will determine that. Most Cubs in AK use a heat robber to preheat intake air to improve heater output.
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  11. #171
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    Heating System - Part 2

    I bought the basic standard homebuilders cabin heat box and modified it to have the arm moving up & down versus sideways.
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    Just a little bit of reverse engineering.

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    Here, the lower part connects to the Cabin Heat Box.

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    A better view of how heat will be distributed in the cockpit.

    Early in the morning, taxing slowly on floats with mist in the windshield, you have lots of heat coming from the engine but no velocity to bring up there. So, in order to pump the warm air on top i needed some sort of a fan. Here what I did...
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    I bought an FMS Ducted Fan Jet 50mm - 11 blades / 12 V / 40A / Thrust 625g and integrated to 2 x 2'' ABS reducing coupling.

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    This turbine fits perfectly in the coupling and is sealed with clips...Easier for maintenance.

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    Since these fans are dedicated to Radio Control Aircraft, the Electronic speed controller needed to be converted from batterie (2200 mAh) to 12 V. A little fan was added to the cover and a bunch of holes to the support to take care of the heat generated by the system.

    More to follow...

    Dan
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  12. #172

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    The fan is interesting but probably unnecessary. It'll be interesting to see if it improves the airflow. In a perfect world I'd like my Cub heat to have a cold air mixer that increased volume and reduced the temperature like a Cessna heater does. It wouldn't be hard to do in my plane but in truth I never use much heat. If I can take some of the chill off my face, ears, and fingers I'm good. The rest of me is dressed for the OAT.

  13. #173
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stewartb View Post
    The fan is interesting but probably unnecessary. It'll be interesting to see if it improves the airflow. In a perfect world I'd like my Cub heat to have a cold air mixer that increased volume and reduced the temperature like a Cessna heater does. It wouldn't be hard to do in my plane but in truth I never use much heat. If I can take some of the chill off my face, ears, and fingers I'm good. The rest of me is dressed for the OAT.
    I can assure you it really improves the airflow. I tested it with a sheet of paper about 6 inches in front of the cabin heat box and it sucked it in all the way to the fan...Pretty powerfull. Now, by opening the lower flapping valve and by controlling the amount of hot air coming from the heat box I can mix the right temp going to the Windshield / Cockpit. That'll be interesting to see if it really works as advertised once the aircraft is flying in these different weather conditions.
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  14. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buzzcola777 View Post
    I can assure you it really improves the airflow. I tested it with a sheet of paper about 6 inches in front of the cabin heat box and it sucked it in all the way to the fan...Pretty powerfull. Now, by opening the lower flapping valve and by controlling the amount of hot air coming from the heat box I can mix the right temp going to the Windshield / Cockpit. That'll be interesting to see if it really works as advertised once the aircraft is flying in these different weather conditions.
    Have you flown this yet with the heat on?

    I ask because I used an abs Y for a bit....until the heat in my 18-95 melted quite a bit of it..


    Transmitted from my FlightPhone on fingers...
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  15. #175
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    Farmboy,
    Not yet, still building the plane but as I mentionned earlier this hot air coming from the engine must be mixed with the cold air from the cockpit. In theory it should work but yet to be seen...

  16. #176
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    I did a Stinson years ago, and the owner wanted fans in the ducts. We went with individual computer fans (they have something like a 10,000 hour life). They're much appreciated on cold and hot days.... especially when taxiing out.
    John
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  17. #177
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    Heating System - Part 3

    To finish this installation, I bought from Old Air Product different louvers in order to diffuse the air.

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    These ones are installed to diffuse the warm air to the windshield and around it. They swivel 360 deg.

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    Both scat tubes connected to the louvers

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    Better view

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    To get rid on the heat from radios and other gizmos I drilled couple holes on both sides.

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    These ones are installed on the instrument panel for cabin heat

    On my way to next project!
    Dan
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  18. #178
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    Brake Pedals...

    While assembling for the umpteenth time the cabin sidewall I noticed that the rod bearings attached to the tubes welded to the brake pedals were rubbing slighty against that wall. To fix that problem I printed with the 3D a cover that is inserted in the wall to give a good clearance for the bearings & tubes movements.

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    Here is the problem...Rod bearing rubbing against the wall when moving the brake pedal.

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    Rough print out.

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    To make it smooth, I dissolve ABS chips in Acetone then apply it to the the part.

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    Ready to be installed.

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    Problem fix

    Interesting quote:
    Bill Peterson, a Florida State football coach:
    "You guys line up alphabetically by height... and, "You guys pair up in groups of three, and then line up in a circle."

    Dan
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  19. #179

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    Dan,
    I am very impressed with your fabrication skills, but it pains me to watch that plane getting heavier by the minute ,
    You had mentioned emphasis on creature comforts earlier, but light nimble Cubs are such a pleasure to fly.
    I should probably mind my own business, but weight adds up quick and should factor into every decision during build.
    just my 2c
    keep up the good work!

    doug
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  20. #180
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oliver View Post
    Dan,
    I am very impressed with your fabrication skills, but it pains me to watch that plane getting heavier by the minute ,
    You had mentioned emphasis on creature comforts earlier, but light nimble Cubs are such a pleasure to fly.
    I should probably mind my own business, but weight adds up quick and should factor into every decision during build.
    just my 2c
    keep up the good work!

    doug
    Hey Doug,
    No worries, I welcome all comments. Yes you are right, it is a game of give and take. The projected Instrument panel will have one IPAD & one IPhone...No steam gauges. A Catto prop and for the last year I lost 20 pounds at the Gym...Just trying to compensate for the little goodies added to the plane...

    Dan
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  21. #181

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    Finding solutions is part of the fun. That one's creative. Very nice.
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