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Thread: New kid on the block - Smith Cub

  1. #81
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buzzcola777 View Post
    Attachment 50225
    Now that the top piece is lined up, I'll make the part surrounding the ''V'' tubes

    Attachment 50226
    Template and its brother aluminum

    Attachment 50227 Attachment 50228
    Rounded the front part and riveted it.


    More to follow...
    Dan
    Make certain that you consider the length of the tool to fasten the rear piece in place with the windshield installed. Your screwdriver may be too long to fit.
    N1PA

  2. #82
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    Point taken!
    Thanks

  3. #83

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    I am kind of surprised you are not forming a lip on the panel edges where the filler panels are up close and may contact the tubes as things flex about?
    Regards, Charlie
    Super Coupe E-AB build in process

  4. #84

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    Take your front interior side panels out, put you dash in place and then try to get the front side panels back in. Most of the ones I have seen are a major pain to remove with the dash in place. Yours look kind of tall and I suspect will be very difficult to remove without taking the dash off. Something to fix now. Your work is excellent for fit and finish however making everything tight can have drawbacks when it comes to working on the plane down the road. The fuselage is going to change as you fly it leave some space for it to grow and adjust over time.
    DENNY

  5. #85
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharlieN View Post
    I am kind of surprised you are not forming a lip on the panel edges where the filler panels are up close and may contact the tubes as things flex about?
    Not too sure what you mean Charlie?

  6. #86
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    Denny, I did exactly that when I made the interior side panels. I trimmed them as much as possible for play and to be honest with you, it is still a pain to remove them but feasible without removing the dash. I would not like to remove them too often!! Thanks for the advice!

  7. #87

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    Quote Originally Posted by Buzzcola777 View Post
    Not too sure what you mean Charlie?
    I would need to look for an image.

    What I do where the edge of the aluminum or other sheet could get against a tube, I cut the sheet proud and then hammer form the edge back such that it would have a 5 to 8mm surface, call it a flange against the tube rather than the thin edge of the sheet which will in short order damage the paint/ powder coat and soon wear into the steel itself.
    This provides a much larger bearing area that can be cushioned to reduce the chance of wear on ether part.
    Regards, Charlie
    Super Coupe E-AB build in process

  8. #88

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    This is aluminum against aluminum. A baffle inside a dry sump oil tank I build a few decades back. The edges of the internal baffle in this case are simply folded such that no edge will bear on the surface of the tank skin.
    It is the fold formed be it simple or complex that spreads the load against it's mating surface that lets the parts live allot longer as vibration or other stresses work the parts.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Regards, Charlie
    Super Coupe E-AB build in process
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  9. #89
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    Charlie,
    an image is worth 1000 words!!
    Thanks Charlie!

  10. #90

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    I spent a bunch of time looking through my image folders of the past 20+ years of both customer as well as my own protects, it appears I have not taken pictures of formed edges of my sheetmetal work. Plenty of formed weldments but nothing showing edge work of panels.
    A few decades back a partner in one of my aircraft builds introduced me to "helicopter tape" this being a clear tape that is used on the leading edges of blades.
    I have put this on tubing where the aluminum will be touching, be it an edge or laying flat against it.

    Between the tape and making sure no direct edges are in reach of the tube I have not even had to touch up paint in contact areas.

    I have more recently bought some double sided very high bond tape for where a panel will lay against structure. This has it's value to quite things down.

    Your work looks sweet, it is very clear you have a long history working with sheetmetal.
    Regards, Charlie
    Super Coupe E-AB build in process
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  11. #91
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    The helicopter tape that you mentionned really drawn my attention. I did a search on the web and here what I found:

    https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/...sell-sheet.pdf

    Well, if it is good for blades spinning at 355 RPM in rain / sand / snow, it is certainly good enough for a little bit of shake & bake on the structure.
    Thanks for this eye opener!
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  12. #92

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    Yes, I almost wrote it as Polyethylene, not Polyurethane, I left that out since I could not recall. When I first was working with it had to make sure we had real good scissors in reach since a knife did not cut the material.
    Back in the late 80's I bought the only new car in my life. It soon was showing paint chips on the wheel flairs and front end. I covered these surfaces with the "helicopter tape" I had. It stopped any further surface damage and today the tape is still in place, it has some yellowing and cracking it is still in place.

    Looking at Mcmaster Carr it looks like "Surface Protection Tape" might be right.
    https://www.mcmaster.com/fastening-t...otection-tape/

    I expect many options are out there.
    Last edited by CharlieN; 07-31-2020 at 10:43 AM.
    Regards, Charlie
    Super Coupe E-AB build in process

  13. #93
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    Hey hey! Good story there!
    I'm sure that this protective tape would be way less expensive than this helicopter tape. I will buy a 1'' roll for the area prone to chafing or maybe I could use the anti-chafe tape use for the fabric covering?

  14. #94

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    I have areas under the fabric that will need added protection, In the past I have put a strip of reinforcing tape under the fabric, this might be an option.
    One consideration might be if the fabric is to be free to slide about or needs to be bonded, I doubt that one can bond to this tape. It is a great consideration to use it for edge protection, might slit the tape to use in ½" strips.
    Curious how cleanly it will adhere over fabric such as the LE of the stabilizers or the wear spots around the cabin entry.
    Regards, Charlie
    Super Coupe E-AB build in process

  15. #95
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    I think that I will stick (pun intended) to the anti-chafe tape for the covering and the Mcmaster Carr's protective tape for the structure, probably safer that way.

  16. #96

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    I agree,
    I do know there are areas where I want added protection over the fabric as well which this tape is probably the best available.
    Regards, Charlie
    Super Coupe E-AB build in process

  17. #97

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    Quote Originally Posted by CharlieN View Post
    Yes, I almost wrote it as Polyethylene, not Polyurethane, I left that out since I could not recall. When I first was working with it had to make sure we had real good scissors in reach since a knife did not cut the material.
    Back in the late 80's I bought the only new car in my life. It soon was showing paint chips on the wheel flairs and front end. I covered these surfaces with the "helicopter tape" I had. It stopped any further surface damage and today the tape is still in place, it has some yellowing and cracking it is still in place.

    Looking at Mcmaster Carr it looks like "Surface Protection Tape" might be right.
    https://www.mcmaster.com/fastening-t...otection-tape/

    I expect many options are out there.

    CharlieN/all,


    While on the topic of tapes and protections.. Is the black tape at the mcmaster link above the typical stuff folks use on leading edge of wing struts and leading edge of tail feathers? If not what do you all use, something better out there? I've been meaning to cover my struts to protect from rocks as I see more chips adding up.

    Thanks!
    Jeff

  18. #98
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    Tgskillskill, good question. I'm curious to see what others do to protect these parts.

  19. #99

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    https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...QaAomNEALw_wcB

    What about this stuff.....I used it on a previous plane and liked it. The tape goes on clear and was pretty thick stuff.
    Thanks bush4 thanked for this post

  20. #100
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    Tailpilot, Did the tape turn yellowish after a while??

  21. #101
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    Carpeting

    Nothing fancy here but just something to protect the floorboards.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I'll be using the floorboards as templates in order to cut the openings. So with some masking tape, I made sure that I would have a very close fit.

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    Bought it from Home depot. Not expensive and apparently very durable...Yet to be verified!

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    All openings were made using a soldering iron which cuts ans seals at the same time.

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    Makes perfect holes

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    Close fit with all openings.

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    Done!

    Next I will install the pedals

    Dan

  22. #102

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    Quote Originally Posted by Buzzcola777 View Post
    Tailpilot, Did the tape turn yellowish after a while??
    Unfortunately I don't remember that well. the spots that I had it on were blue, so it was hard to tell. I would think that on a white plane it would give off a yellowish tint over time.

  23. #103
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tailpilot View Post
    Unfortunately I don't remember that well. the spots that I had it on were blue, so it was hard to tell. I would think that on a white plane it would give off a yellowish tint over time.
    Well, if you don't like the tint, you can still remove the old tape and stick a new one...

  24. #104
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    Rudder Pedals Installation

    Time to work on the rudder pedals. First, I cut a bunch of steel plates (.062'')

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    Then I took a 5/8'' round bar and formed the clamps for the pedals

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    Clamps done!

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    Now making aluminum spacers (1/8'') so that the rudder springs won't rub against the metal plates (tabs) that are welded to the fuselage.

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    Bolted them together and sanded them to the right size.

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    There is a steel plate (link) on the other side to prevent the bolts to dig in the floorboards.

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    Now the spacers

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    ...And the clamps with spring and rudder pedal. I used ''Lubricate 630-AA'' to grease the pedals.

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    Front pedals installed as well as the brake pedals.

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    Voilà! I've tried as well the brake kit bought from Larry Bauer...Fits nicely.

    More to follow!
    Dan
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  25. #105
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    Fuel System - Gascolator Bracket

    I bought the ACS Homebuilder Gascolator and decided to fabricate the bracket in order to make it a little more sturdy than the one sold by ACS (.016'' SS). Here we go..

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    draw it first...

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    ...Then stick it to your preferred piece of metal

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    I used the circular hole cutter...Cheap & good tool to have.

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    Trial fit the bowl

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    Folded it as per plan

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    Gascolator in its bracket.

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    Use bracket as template and cut a hole for the fuel line.

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    Verified the AN fuel line fitting for connection.

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    Made a bracket that would be installed on the back of the firewall with anchor nuts to support the gascolator.

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    Installation completed!

    More to follow!
    Dan Poirier
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  26. #106
    Olibuilt's Avatar
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    Very nice work!



    But: How Dare You to post a picture of a ACS Gascolator on SuperCub.org....!!!!






    I'll post a better pic, just to make things right...

    Click image for larger version. 

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  27. #107
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    New kid on the block - Smith Cub

    Quote Originally Posted by Olibuilt View Post
    Very nice work!



    But: How Dare You to post a picture of a ACS Gascolator on SuperCub.org....!!!!






    I'll post a better pic, just to make things right...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Not a CHANCE IN FUCKING HELL I WILL USE ANY GASCOLATOR OTHER THAN A STEVE’s GASCOLATOR... that ancient one you posted is safely hazard!!! Buy Brian’s steve’s gascolator!!!


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app

  28. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike mcs repair View Post
    Not a CHANCE IN FUCKING HELL I WILL USE ANY GASCOLATOR OTHER THAN A STEVE’s GASCOLATOR... that ancient one you posted is safely hazard!!! Buy Brian’s steve’s gascolator!!!


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app
    You're among friends Mike. Relax and tell us how you really feel about gascolators.

    Web
    Life's tough . . . wear a cup.
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  29. #109
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wireweinie View Post
    You're among friends Mike. Relax and tell us how you really feel about gascolators.

    Web
    I apologize if I was wishy washy in my post....


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app

  30. #110
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    So......After all this commotion about the ACS Gascolator....Please explain the problem with it?

  31. #111
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    You look at the bail and they start leaking


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  32. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buzzcola777 View Post
    So......After all this commotion about the ACS Gascolator....Please explain the problem with it?
    That design of the ACS style was an improvement over the older, glass, gascolators. They use a pressed, sheet metal bowl, held in place by a wire bail and sealed with a cork or fiber gasket. Compare that to the Steve's gascolator with a turned, aluminum bowl that physically locks into the mounting head and is sealed with a trapped o ring.

    And if you think we're a little over the top in our opinions on gascolators, I'm sure almost everyone on this forum has had or knows 'a guy' that has had problems with the bail type gascolators, up to and including aircraft and human damage.

    Web
    Life's tough . . . wear a cup.
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  33. #113
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wireweinie View Post
    That design of the ACS style was an improvement over the older, glass, gascolators. They use a pressed, sheet metal bowl, held in place by a wire bail and sealed with a cork or fiber gasket. Compare that to the Steve's gascolator with a turned, aluminum bowl that physically locks into the mounting head and is sealed with a trapped o ring.

    And if you think we're a little over the top in our opinions on gascolators, I'm sure almost everyone on this forum has had or knows 'a guy' that has had problems with the bail type gascolators, up to and including aircraft and human damage.

    Web
    Thank you kindly for the explanation!!! So, Steve's gascolator it is. I will have a 0-360 installed on my Cub, what model do you suggest and is there a specific drain plug for this gascolator?

  34. #114
    wireweinie's Avatar
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    Look at their website. It's probably either the SA3-00 or the SA3-00-A. It would be best to call them and explain your exact setup with fuel lines, primer system, etc., and get their recommendation.

    Web
    Life's tough . . . wear a cup.

  35. #115
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    Yeap! All do that right away!
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  36. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike mcs repair View Post
    Not a CHANCE IN FUCKING HELL I WILL USE ANY GASCOLATOR OTHER THAN A STEVE’s GASCOLATOR... that ancient one you posted is safely hazard!!! Buy Brian’s steve’s gascolator!!!


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app
    EMERGENCY SECURED MIKE!!! I just ordered a SA3-00 from Steve's gascolator...
    Likes mam90, Hardtailjohn, silflexer liked this post

  37. #117
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buzzcola777 View Post
    Thank you kindly for the explanation!!! So, Steve's gascolator it is. I will have a 0-360 installed on my Cub, what model do you suggest and is there a specific drain plug for this gascolator?
    Model is determined by the number of gallons in tanks. And line size


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app

  38. #118
    Buzzcola777's Avatar
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    I called Steve's shop and was told to buy the SA3-00 with the Curtis 1550 with 48 gallons of fuel. Fuel line 3/8''.
    Dan

  39. #119
    55-PA18A's Avatar
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    Buzz,
    Once you get the new gascolator in hand, you'll understand the strong emotions. Considering the quality of work we can see going in to your plane, it's the right one to use. You'll really like it.
    Jim
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  40. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by 55-PA18A View Post
    Buzz,
    Once you get the new gascolator in hand, you'll understand the strong emotions. Considering the quality of work we can see going in to your plane, it's the right one to use. You'll really like it.
    Jim
    Jim,
    I just can't wait to get this new gascolator in order to compare it to the ACS one. Furthermore, I believe that the strong emotion will come from the fact that because of you guys , I am eliminating a fire hasard and that's serious business!

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