New kid on the block - Smith Cub

The helicopter tape that you mentionned really drawn my attention. I did a search on the web and here what I found:

https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/827007O/rotorblade-protection-sell-sheet.pdf

Well, if it is good for blades spinning at 355 RPM in rain / sand / snow, it is certainly good enough for a little bit of shake & bake on the structure.
Thanks for this eye opener!

Yes, I almost wrote it as Polyethylene, not Polyurethane, I left that out since I could not recall. When I first was working with it had to make sure we had real good scissors in reach since a knife did not cut the material.
Back in the late 80's I bought the only new car in my life. It soon was showing paint chips on the wheel flairs and front end. I covered these surfaces with the "helicopter tape" I had. It stopped any further surface damage and today the tape is still in place, it has some yellowing and cracking it is still in place.

Looking at Mcmaster Carr it looks like "Surface Protection Tape" might be right.
https://www.mcmaster.com/fastening-...rotection/heavy-duty-surface-protection-tape/

I expect many options are out there.

Hey hey! Good story there!
I'm sure that this protective tape would be way less expensive than this helicopter tape. I will buy a 1'' roll for the area prone to chafing or maybe I could use the anti-chafe tape use for the fabric covering?

I have areas under the fabric that will need added protection, In the past I have put a strip of reinforcing tape under the fabric, this might be an option.
One consideration might be if the fabric is to be free to slide about or needs to be bonded, I doubt that one can bond to this tape. It is a great consideration to use it for edge protection, might slit the tape to use in ½" strips.
Curious how cleanly it will adhere over fabric such as the LE of the stabilizers or the wear spots around the cabin entry.

I think that I will stick (pun intended) to the anti-chafe tape for the covering and the Mcmaster Carr's protective tape for the structure, probably safer that way.

I agree,
I do know there are areas where I want added protection over the fabric as well which this tape is probably the best available.

CharlieN said:

Yes, I almost wrote it as Polyethylene, not Polyurethane, I left that out since I could not recall. When I first was working with it had to make sure we had real good scissors in reach since a knife did not cut the material.
Back in the late 80's I bought the only new car in my life. It soon was showing paint chips on the wheel flairs and front end. I covered these surfaces with the "helicopter tape" I had. It stopped any further surface damage and today the tape is still in place, it has some yellowing and cracking it is still in place.

Looking at Mcmaster Carr it looks like "Surface Protection Tape" might be right.
https://www.mcmaster.com/fastening-...rotection/heavy-duty-surface-protection-tape/

I expect many options are out there.

Click to expand...

CharlieN/all,


While on the topic of tapes and protections.. Is the black tape at the mcmaster link above the typical stuff folks use on leading edge of wing struts and leading edge of tail feathers? If not what do you all use, something better out there? I've been meaning to cover my struts to protect from rocks as I see more chips adding up.

Thanks!
Jeff

Tgskillskill, good question. I'm curious to see what others do to protect these parts.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/cata...l5_j3rUVqmRjSNvQ80GRJj6H6IBVorjQaAomNEALw_wcB

What about this stuff.....I used it on a previous plane and liked it. The tape goes on clear and was pretty thick stuff.

Tailpilot, Did the tape turn yellowish after a while??

Carpeting

Nothing fancy here but just something to protect the floorboards.


I'll be using the floorboards as templates in order to cut the openings. So with some masking tape, I made sure that I would have a very close fit.


Bought it from Home depot. Not expensive and apparently very durable...Yet to be verified!


All openings were made using a soldering iron which cuts ans seals at the same time.


Makes perfect holes


Close fit with all openings.


Done!:lol:

Next I will install the pedals

Dan

Buzzcola777 said:

Tailpilot, Did the tape turn yellowish after a while??

Click to expand...

Unfortunately I don't remember that well. the spots that I had it on were blue, so it was hard to tell. I would think that on a white plane it would give off a yellowish tint over time.

Tailpilot said:

Unfortunately I don't remember that well. the spots that I had it on were blue, so it was hard to tell. I would think that on a white plane it would give off a yellowish tint over time.

Click to expand...

Well, if you don't like the tint, you can still remove the old tape and stick a new one...

Rudder Pedals Installation

Time to work on the rudder pedals. First, I cut a bunch of steel plates (.062'')


Then I took a 5/8'' round bar and formed the clamps for the pedals


Clamps done!


Now making aluminum spacers (1/8'') so that the rudder springs won't rub against the metal plates (tabs) that are welded to the fuselage.


Bolted them together and sanded them to the right size.


There is a steel plate (link) on the other side to prevent the bolts to dig in the floorboards.


Now the spacers


...And the clamps with spring and rudder pedal. I used ''Lubricate 630-AA'' to grease the pedals.


Front pedals installed as well as the brake pedals.


Voilà! I've tried as well the brake kit bought from Larry Bauer...Fits nicely.

More to follow!
Dan

Fuel System - Gascolator Bracket

I bought the ACS Homebuilder Gascolator and decided to fabricate the bracket in order to make it a little more sturdy than the one sold by ACS (.016'' SS). Here we go..


draw it first...


...Then stick it to your preferred piece of metal


I used the circular hole cutter...Cheap & good tool to have.


Trial fit the bowl


Folded it as per plan


Gascolator in its bracket.


Use bracket as template and cut a hole for the fuel line.


Verified the AN fuel line fitting for connection.


Made a bracket that would be installed on the back of the firewall with anchor nuts to support the gascolator.


Installation completed!

More to follow!
Dan Poirier

Very nice work!



But: How Dare You to post a picture of a ACS Gascolator on SuperCub.org....!!!!






I'll post a better pic, just to make things right...

mike mcs repair said:

Not a CHANCE IN FUCKING HELL I WILL USE ANY GASCOLATOR OTHER THAN A STEVE’s GASCOLATOR... that ancient one you posted is safely hazard!!! Buy Brian’s steve’s gascolator!!!


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Click to expand...

You're among friends Mike. Relax and tell us how you really feel about gascolators.

Web

wireweinie said:

You're among friends Mike. Relax and tell us how you really feel about gascolators.

Web

Click to expand...

I apologize if I was wishy washy in my post....


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So......After all this commotion about the ACS Gascolator....Please explain the problem with it?

You look at the bail and they start leaking


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Buzzcola777 said:

So......After all this commotion about the ACS Gascolator....Please explain the problem with it?

Click to expand...

That design of the ACS style was an improvement over the older, glass, gascolators. They use a pressed, sheet metal bowl, held in place by a wire bail and sealed with a cork or fiber gasket. Compare that to the Steve's gascolator with a turned, aluminum bowl that physically locks into the mounting head and is sealed with a trapped o ring.

And if you think we're a little over the top in our opinions on gascolators, I'm sure almost everyone on this forum has had or knows 'a guy' that has had problems with the bail type gascolators, up to and including aircraft and human damage.

Web

wireweinie said:

That design of the ACS style was an improvement over the older, glass, gascolators. They use a pressed, sheet metal bowl, held in place by a wire bail and sealed with a cork or fiber gasket. Compare that to the Steve's gascolator with a turned, aluminum bowl that physically locks into the mounting head and is sealed with a trapped o ring.

And if you think we're a little over the top in our opinions on gascolators, I'm sure almost everyone on this forum has had or knows 'a guy' that has had problems with the bail type gascolators, up to and including aircraft and human damage.

Web

Click to expand...

Thank you kindly for the explanation!!! So, Steve's gascolator it is. I will have a 0-360 installed on my Cub, what model do you suggest and is there a specific drain plug for this gascolator?

Look at their website. It's probably either the SA3-00 or the SA3-00-A. It would be best to call them and explain your exact setup with fuel lines, primer system, etc., and get their recommendation.

Web

Yeap! All do that right away!

mike mcs repair said:

Not a CHANCE IN FUCKING HELL I WILL USE ANY GASCOLATOR OTHER THAN A STEVE’s GASCOLATOR... that ancient one you posted is safely hazard!!! Buy Brian’s steve’s gascolator!!!


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Click to expand...

EMERGENCY SECURED MIKE!!! I just ordered a SA3-00 from Steve's gascolator...

Buzzcola777 said:

Thank you kindly for the explanation!!! So, Steve's gascolator it is. I will have a 0-360 installed on my Cub, what model do you suggest and is there a specific drain plug for this gascolator?

Click to expand...

Model is determined by the number of gallons in tanks. And line size


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I called Steve's shop and was told to buy the SA3-00 with the Curtis 1550 with 48 gallons of fuel. Fuel line 3/8''.
Dan

Buzz,
Once you get the new gascolator in hand, you'll understand the strong emotions. Considering the quality of work we can see going in to your plane, it's the right one to use. You'll really like it.
Jim

55-PA18A said:

Buzz,
Once you get the new gascolator in hand, you'll understand the strong emotions. Considering the quality of work we can see going in to your plane, it's the right one to use. You'll really like it.
Jim

Click to expand...

Jim,
I just can't wait to get this new gascolator in order to compare it to the ACS one. Furthermore, I believe that the strong emotion will come from the fact that because of you guys , I am eliminating a fire hasard and that's serious business!

Fuel System - Fuel Lines - Part 1

I'll be very honest with you Gents, this section will be very boring for those having experience in building aircrafts...But for a beginner like me, it is always a little bit frightening but very stimulating to learn the do's and don'ts of cutting / bending / flaring / fitting fuel lines and eventually testing for leakage of your own fuel system. Hey, it's all about learning and sharpening skill set that we build those magnificent flying machine...Right? So, here we go!


Here is what I think should be needed to build this Fuel System. I'll use 3/8'' fuel lines for the entire installation.


To start with, I bought the Weatherhead Fuel shut-off valve (P/N:6749). I figured that if it is good for the Backcountry Cub it is good enough for me.


Next, I followed the instruction from the Backcountry builder's manual in order to modify the fuel selector from 3 to 4 ports creating a ''BOTH TANK fuel feed selection'' ( See: Fuel Valve Modification - Page #62)


Here is the support plate for the fuel selector that came with the fuselage. Just not long enough to install the fuel selector correctly in place.


I made an extension so that now I have a little more room to position the fuel selector correctly.


See what I mean...without this extension it would have been very difficult to connect the fuel lines to the selector.


Now the fuel lines, for a beginner, the first cut is always the worse one! You just hope that your measurements after all the bendings to come will be OK!!!


I've used a countersink cutter #30 to deburr the line.




Next insert the Nut coupling and the sleeve and flare it. I bought the Rolo-Flair - Flaring Tool 37 degrees (don't buy the automotive one ...It is 45 dregrees!!). The Rolo-Flair is a great piece of kit! You can see how the Tee fitting fits with the flared line.


Now the tubending tool. I suggest that you waste a couple feet of tubing to practice with it. Read the instruction carefully in order to get the radius that you need at the right place...It is well worth it!


Started with the lines going to the front of the Main tanks.

More to follow!
Dan