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Recovering my cub

Am I correct that's a 1951 airframe? 69 years is a long time - personally I'd rather assume this recover will be good for 25 years (maybe less in AK) and put my money into a new airframe.

I just sleep better knowing I have better steel, better welds, lower TT and way less corrosion. The money you put into stripping, inspecting, patching and powder coating could go part way to a new frame with all the options.

Just my 2 cents though. I like that panel layout as the blue areas look easy to scan.

Piper had excellent welds. Seen more issues with new fuselages and weld issues than ever seen on a Piper frame. I know the early fuselages have some mild steel in them but have yet to see any major issues with that. Corrosion is an issue with them all but knowing where to look and blasting I have not had any issues down the road. Worst fuselages I have done were wrecks had $7K into them vs $14-15K for a new one.

I see you are from Hood River. I take it you know Hayden Newhouse?
 
I agree strongly with what Low Lead said. Piece of mind. It sure would be a shame to put a lot into a nice re do only to have rust or corrosion to show up a few years down the road. You may think everything was checked out but something that old still could have some surprises. When you are done if you go new you will have a more valuable airplane that would be easier to sell if the need ever came up. You can decide what upgrades you want to incorporate into the new build, money well spent in my opinion. Dont throw good money after bad.

Kurt
That is why you buy a new Husky, right? ;)
 
Herc, if I were in your shoes, here's what I'd do... Take the 70k that you said you have to spend, and put it towards building an experimental. Continue flying your cub as you build. Take your time and build the experimental exactly as you want. If it takes 2 or 3 years to build it, so what, you'll have a new plane, and when it's done, sell your old cub. It seems like a ratty old cub needing a rebuild still sells for 35-40k. All said and done, I think you'd be money ahead to go this route.
 
I see you are from Hood River. I take it you know Hayden Newhouse?

Hi Steve - I know Hayden. He's an impressive A&P with a long career ahead of him. I won't say too many good things about him here as it's a public forum and it may put his humility at risk. I've heard he was born with a tailwheel attached but it could be a rumor.

I've talked old airframes with him and he's cut into a few of them. I'm not sure when Piper phased out mild steel. I once worked at a little commercial aircraft company in the Seattle area and probably have an irrational fear of metal fatigue and welds I can't NDT.
 
What year cub and who did the last overhaul on the fuselage? Big difference in going through a fifties cub and a seventies model. How much time on the airframe?

3105 aircraft total time
Fuselage / wings overhaul and recovered with
ceconite
in 1985 2638TT

Edited to correct aftt
 
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I like the others think you are being very optimistic in your cost estimates for that airplane. From your picture that airplane has been used hard in the years before you bought it. Sure it has a few different shades of paint, that's only cosmetic. The beat up boot cowl proves that the previous owner rode it hard and put it up wet. Now with a serial number of 823, is it eligible for the 160 hp engine without extensive mods? Has anyone gone over the lower longerons with an ice pick? What evidences of the landing gear having been forcibly removed and repaired are there. Is the rear doorpost rusted out?

Does it still have the 0-235 engine? You will also need a propeller. Granted I'm a long way from Big Lake but if your picture is accurate, I'd be inclined to listen to Mike mcs repair. I suggest that you spend a few $$ and have mike look it over. Even if he doesn't do any work, you will learn whether or not your $32k estimate is close.

New extended gear was installed in 2014. I have replaced all gear bolts each year when I swap back to wheels. They each go in "easy" but I replace them one at a time.

The boot cowl has a couple punctures up top and some holes drilled to stop cracks but other than that its in decent shape. Just figured why not replace it when I'm doing the recover.

I've had a couple people look at the lower longerons and no damage was noted, but who knows what will be found once the fabric is off

It currently has an O-290-D2 in it and is eligible for the 160 without extensive mods

good idea having Mike take a look at it, I had not considered him because in past recovering posts I looked at I believe he said he is usually booked up pretty far out.

It has a low time borer prop already so I'll just hang onto that for the time being with the hope that CATTO gets certified.
 
There was a SuperCub in NC that was for sale then sold a year or two ago. I traveled to look at it, when they moved it to SC. A Local pencil whipper put a fresh Annual on it, you could stick a screwdriver through the lower longerons, wing damage from hitting a tree, bunch of other issues, flight controls and fabric just nasty. I walked away in disgust. It was sold to some guy in Alaska sight unseen. It wasn’t you was it?

Definitly not that bird
 
You have a lot of real estate on that panel. A little planning and you can shrink it considerably. A CGR-30P (no -30C) will put all engine instruments in one 3 1/8" hole. Winters makes 2 1/4" altimeter and airspeed instruments. Keep the vertical card compass and move the ELT switch to the left overhead panel so that either pilot or backseat can reach it. Change the breakers to Klixon style (smaller). Can't see what com you have but consider a Becker or Trig and a stand alone intercom. Don't install ADS-B unless you NEED it (not WANT it). Move the battery under the pilots seat. B&C or plane power alternator on engine accessory drive. All lights changed to LED's.

What you must install, make as light and small as possible. Move needed items as close to the CG area as reasonable. And don't install anything that isn't absolutely needed.

Web

No plans to install ADS-B.

Good idea with the ELT relocation

Transceiver/intercom is an Xcom and I'm happy with it. Small and lightweight. No transponder

All lights are LEDs

Has lightweight battery installed under front seat and alternator on the accessory drive

I'll look into those breakers
 
Buying a new fuselage has several advantages. If you do I would not have it painted or power coated until you fit the interior and rig the tail and wings. I don't think I have ever seen a new fuselage that did not need several tabs, fittings, welding done to it. Bunch of guys at Skwentna that will help you spend your money.:wink:
DENNY

Sadly I wont be able to attend now. Flying back to work on Saturday instead of the following Monday. So far I've missed it every year since I've bought the cub
 
I've attached a few pictures from the initial appraisal I had done when I bought it back in 2017. 20200529_223036.jpeg20200529_222944.jpeg20200529_222917.jpeg20200529_222824.jpeg

Sent from my SM-N975U using SuperCub.Org mobile app
 

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Am I correct that's a 1951 airframe? 69 years is a long time - personally I'd rather assume this recover will be good for 25 years (maybe less in AK) and put my money into a new airframe.

I just sleep better knowing I have better steel, better welds, lower TT and way less corrosion. The money you put into stripping, inspecting, patching and powder coating could go part way to a new frame with all the options.

Just my 2 cents though. I like that panel layout as the blue areas look easy to scan.

Got to discussing this with my welder buddy this morning. He has been with Air Tractor as a welder 30 plus years. He and I have never seen an issue with a Piper weld. All failures from wrecks have been outside the heat effected zone. Also, the 4130 in Piper frames is virgin material and welds much nicer than modern day 4130 that has all kinds of recycled metals in it. The welders at Air Tractor started complaining about how some of the new tubing welded and even smelled. They tested some of it and found it didn't meet the speck. They have had several issues like that in recent years.
 
OK here’s my 2C, sell it and buy somebody else’s dream airplane. The seventy and the value of your cub would put you into one already done. Saves you years of flying time and the resale will be the same. One year down turns into two-three on and on at a blink of an eye.Husky’s can be purchased in the low 100’s and they are fairly new and usually have lots of good stuff in them. I’ve got a Husky that was to be a one year fix and three years now, should fly this summer. Had a PA-12 for at least 6 years( total wreck ) and no est. when it will fly again. Good luck hard decision.
 
Having recently gone through this I agree with the above. My airplane was part of the family and a 6 month fuselage only rebuild turned into 2.5 years and it was still just a fuselage only rebuild. It was the right thing for the airplane, but a poor financial decision and missed flying opportunities. The second time I bought another cub during the interim. Poor financial decision but no missed flying opportunities.
In the end I think ignore all the feelings and just make good financial decisions.
 
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