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Making doors for A PA-12

algonquin

MEMBER
Seldovia,Ak
Just wondering if anybody has blind riveted Lexan, onto frames for a sea plane door set up. Would like suggestions which rivets you used. Thank you in advance.
 
B7F06D1B-7F64-4881-85FE-BACA3460A6AB.jpgKind of like this I assume you want. I don’t have a picture of the front side. I think I used countersunk washers and #8 machine screws into keyed rivnuts.
 

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That’s what I have, the Doors are made and just need to fasten the Lexan on. Did you use a gasket around the frame? Wondering if the rim of the rivnuts held the Lexan off the frame to leak air?
 
I’ve done plexiglass. You only pull rivets partially tight then cut off stems. You’d probably cause cracking down the line later if pulled tight (don’t ask how many have cracked days or weeks after install)


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Some people use CherryMax rivets for fiberglass because you can choose the final length so you don’t over compress the material.
 
I was just looking at Hanson Rivet company, they have soft set rivets made with 1100 aluminum. They say they are for plastic type materials. Any thoughts on drilling a little larger and putting a nylon washer in as a spacer. Just a thought
 
I used AN525 washer head #8 screws with rivnuts. Single piece of Lexan bent in a brake. Used some foam padding between the frame and Lexan and where the Lexan overlaps the fuselage. Also a strip of aluminum at the front edge. If I did it again I would probably do aluminum trim all the way around the perimeter painted to match the fuselage.

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Here’s a better picture. Keyed rivnuts so they don’t turn and stainless recessed washers and #8 machine screws. 79BBF2DF-A0DF-4416-B0D5-AFD10B2C6322.jpeg
 

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IMG_0312.jpgIMG_0313.jpgThat all sounds too complicated for me! I used a piece of Polycarbonate .093 that cost $30. and a bunch of black aluminum pip rivets from Home Depot. I cut the glass oversized and added some stick-on weather striping (Home Depot) around the frame. Works beautifully! I did use a plexiglass drill bit (aircraft spruce) to drill the holes in the glass.
 

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LOL, Must keep telling myself this is a PA-12 not the space shuttle. That looks great, did you do the mid door bend in a brake or just rivet it on?
 
Nobody ever told me I could use a brake! I tried heating it with a heat gun (it didn't work) and just riveted it on there. Easy Peasy! They don't leak either.
 
Yes. Sheet metal brake for where it bends. I used rubber bulb seal between the door and the lexan. You might consider plexiglass because the lexan scratches easily. I would space the fasteners closer than 4 inches.
 
I used AN525 washer head #8 screws with rivnuts. Single piece of Lexan bent in a brake. Used some foam padding between the frame and Lexan and where the Lexan overlaps the fuselage. Also a strip of aluminum at the front edge. If I did it again I would probably do aluminum trim all the way around the perimeter painted to match the fuselage.

View attachment 48182

It looks hinged on the front? I've pondering doing that instead of on top. Still not sure which I want. How do you like it?
 
Many years ago I built a CompAir 7, but never finished it. My wife and I decided there were too many problems with them, IE. The doors were tearing off. Granted the airplane was much faster and a lot of people were putting the Walter 600hp turbine on them. No the less I have received some great information from you guys that weren’t part of the last build 20 years ago. Thanks again for your help,Tom
 
What ever you do. Do not use lock tite to try and keep the screws lose. The lock tite will crack the glass. And continue to crack even when you walk away.


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Lots of good advice on how to attach the glass here, so just an after thought...... One of the nicest options you can do to the Seaplane door while your building it (IMHO)
Is to simply make the top half open out the same as a Cub. Very cool option ?
Like this.View attachment 48206IMG_20200413_155801400.jpeg

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The door on my -12 is a stock door with lexan on the bottom part and double sliding lexan windows above. Also double sliding windows on the left side. Makes it nice to have four openings to adjust ventilation in the heat of summer.
IMG_8840.JPG
 

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I learned this the expensive way. Thanks for confirmation of why... seemed like a great idea at the time .....


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I learned this on my Avid as well. Lexan and lock tite even the tiniest drop, do not play well together and will crack out almost instantly. Plexi is much more forgiving. The hard coated lexan is supposed to be a bit friendlier with petroleum products.
 
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