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Thread: PA-12 (actually PA-18) Heat Shroud renovation

  1. #1

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    PA-12 (actually PA-18) Heat Shroud renovation

    For a change, I'm posting an answer to hopefully pre emptively help others and not a question

    In addition to fitting the new engine to my 12, I'm also tidying up what I can firewall forward and the very dirty and stained Heater Shroud was high on the list. I researched stainless steel clean up options and came up with recommendations for Autoglym Metai Polish. The transformation in the pics took around 90 minutes and was achieved with just the polish, a soft cloth to apply the polish and then plenty of elbow work to rub it into the stains until they broke up and came out and then a microfibre cloth to finish off.

    To say I'm pleased with the results is an understatement

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Every day's a school day
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    wireweinie's Avatar
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    Hate to install it now. Just going to get dirty again!

    Web
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    hotrod180's Avatar
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    For the first (or maybe only) step in cleaning a funky heat shroud,
    EasyOff oven cleaner works well.
    Heat up the muff in the oven, spray it on, hose it off.
    Cessna Skywagon-- accept no substitute!
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    Quote Originally Posted by hotrod180 View Post
    For the first (or maybe only) step in cleaning a funky heat shroud,
    EasyOff oven cleaner works well.
    Heat up the muff in the oven, spray it on, hose it off.
    sounds like an easier solution!! Does this leave the stainless steel undamaged? I’d seen a few videos on using toilet cleaner, but then fortunately a video on why NOT to use these cleaners!!!
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    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Philly5G View Post
    Does this leave the stainless steel undamaged? ..
    it's aluminum...

  6. #6
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    newer design, longer lasting, easy to inspect

    http://www.fadodge.com/muffler-shroud-2-piece-split/

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    Quote Originally Posted by mike mcs repair View Post
    it's aluminum...
    Wow!! Really?!!! It's extremely shiny and springy (it needs to be to get it over the exhaust!!) I didn't know aluminium behaved like that!! As per my signature: "Every day's a school day"
    Every day's a school day

  8. #8
    hotrod180's Avatar
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    Not sure aluminum or not, mine was like Philly's-- shiney & springy.
    Stainless wouldn't surprise me.
    The Easy-Off treatment didn't seem to hurt the one I cleaned that way,
    I owned the airplane for several more years & never saw any sign of corrosion or whatever.
    Cessna Skywagon-- accept no substitute!
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    Quote Originally Posted by wireweinie View Post
    Hate to install it now. Just going to get dirty again!

    Web
    Not if I don't take the protective plastic film off it

    Quick question Web, what gauge of wire do you normally use for the generator to voltage regulator connection?
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    wireweinie's Avatar
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    Original style generator?

    Web
    Life's tough . . . wear a cup.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wireweinie View Post
    Original style generator?

    Web
    Yes original style one, it's currently got an ancient oily and sort of fluffy covered lead that I'll be changing and maybe also the other generator lead that goes through the master switch and then back to the VR, what gauge would you use for that?

    While we're on a wire themed roll, what length would you suggest to make the P Leads please? They're going from the ignition switch bottom right of panel behind the park brake, to Slick 4370/71 on an O235, I'll be using 16 gauge cable for them and external shielding. The current (Bendix) P leads were WAY too long and just got coiled up and in the way, but as I'm not allowed to go out to the airfield for at least 3 weeks, I can't measure the distances myself
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  12. #12
    wireweinie's Avatar
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    They are pretty much all the same circuit so use 12 gauge wire for all of it. Just double check that the generator is the 12 amp model and using a 15 amp breaker. If you measure all of that wire out and it comes to 12 feet or less, you can drop down to 14 gauge wire.

    Fabricate your P-leads from 20 gauge, single conductor, shielded wire. There is almost no measurable current flow on this wire and the only reason I recommend 20 gauge instead of smaller, is to withstand the engine vibration better. As for length, I shouldn't even guess. The most accurate check would be to unroll the existing wires and pull them up to the switch, note the excess and measure the remaining. My GUESS would be 48" or maybe 54". Remember that P-leads need to be routed away from all other wires so allow for that.

    Does someone have a PA 12 handy that could give us a more accurate measurement?

    Web
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    Quote Originally Posted by wireweinie View Post
    They are pretty much all the same circuit so use 12 gauge wire for all of it. Just double check that the generator is the 12 amp model and using a 15 amp breaker. If you measure all of that wire out and it comes to 12 feet or less, you can drop down to 14 gauge wire.

    Fabricate your P-leads from 20 gauge, single conductor, shielded wire. There is almost no measurable current flow on this wire and the only reason I recommend 20 gauge instead of smaller, is to withstand the engine vibration better. As for length, I shouldn't even guess. The most accurate check would be to unroll the existing wires and pull them up to the switch, note the excess and measure the remaining. My GUESS would be 48" or maybe 54". Remember that P-leads need to be routed away from all other wires so allow for that.

    Does someone have a PA 12 handy that could give us a more accurate measurement?

    Web
    Brilliant!! Thanks Web! I need to use 16 gauge for the P leads, as I've only been able to source some 16 gauge shielding Is the routing away from other wires because of interference etc?

    I'll need to double check on the generator specs, but I as I can't get out to the plane for at least 3 weeks, I may as well do the measuring at the same time, unless someone can measure their PA-12 as you suggest
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    wireweinie's Avatar
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    Yep. Route the P-leads away from all other wires as the are electrically noisey.

    Web
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    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Philly, be careful of using someone else's measurements for your lengths. The relationship of your switch to the routing, to the hole in the firewall, to the mags can be rather circuitous. It would not take much difference to render your new wire bundle just a little bit too short. It is far better to need to make a loop than to be 1/2" too short.
    N1PA
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    Quote Originally Posted by skywagon8a View Post
    Philly, be careful of using someone else's measurements for your lengths. The relationship of your switch to the routing, to the hole in the firewall, to the mags can be rather circuitous. It would not take much difference to render your new wire bundle just a little bit too short. It is far better to need to make a loop than to be 1/2" too short.
    Great advice and I've just added more routing detail to the original post "What length of P Lead should I make for the Slick Mags, with the ignition switch on the bottom right of the panel, going vertically upwards in front of the cross member in front of and above the park brake and then pretty much straight forwards through the grommet to the left of the upper starboard engine mount firewall mounting bolt?" and added a pic of the firewall view too, which will hopefully help on the length guessing!! Original post is https://www.supercub.org/forum/showt...-P-Lead-length
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