It is pretty easy to start with the stock ones and use the aluminized tape to adjust/test than make changes after a year or two of test flying. Everything effects the temps, carb, exhaust, timing, prop, altitude, speed, ambient temps, ect. I tried to roll the top edge of the ramp so it would encourage air to follow down between the front fins. Stock baffle had just a simple vertical bend.
DENNY
This can be attributed to the angle of the butterfly valve in the carburetor and the swirling action of the fuel/air mixture downstream in Lycoming engines. With partial throttle there is uneven F/A distribution to the cylinders. With full throttle the F/A mixture is more evenly distributed among all the cylinders. Thus you will see the temperature differences between #1 & #2 vary when compared to #3 & #4 between partial throttle positions and wide open.In full throttle climb #2 and #1 CHT's climb while sometimes #3 and 4 will even drop. You really need to see all 4 to know what is going on.
DENNY
Late to the party, as usual.
Original O-235 baffles, exhaust and muffler/heat box pics
View attachment 46967 View attachment 46968 View attachment 46969 View attachment 46970 View attachment 46971 View attachment 46972View attachment 46973
On picture 1, the long scat tube goes to the muffler, left intake on the top for the carb heat. The scat tube shown attached to the muffler pic goes to the airbox for heated carb air.
On picture 3, the large scat tube goes to the intake on the heat box for fresh cabin air, the small scat tube is blast air for the generator.
There is another air intake that attaches to the heat muff just above the exhaust tube in the last picture.
Wayne
Also notice on the front bottom cylinders in post 42 how they have metal coming down around the barrel with a rod that ties into lower baffling. On a cub that ties into the rear baffle. Not sure how all of your is set up. Like I said seems like every plane is different.
DENNY
I don't have any pictures but my cub is not set up like the one above.
DENNY
WOW!!!! THANK YOU for these Steve!!! These are pretty much exactly the clean, fresh and well-ordered look I'll aiming at!!! I'm loving the pic of the straight fitting HT leads being routed via the Rocker cover bolt clips, that's answered Question #3 PERFECTLY!!!
I can see the heater box is mounted pretty much the same place on the firewall as mine/the standard one(?) but what is on the other side of the firewall? Just a single hole that the hot air blasts through? or some kind of tubing setup to distribute the heat?
The baffles look fantastic, what kind of material is the non metal stuff?
Thanks again
You could “glue” scat into other. I did a test with silicone mold making rubber(2 part). There’s probably some glue out there? Anyone got a link. I see spruce sells something for gluing baffles.
And if you just need standard baffling http://www.airforms.biz
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I like the gluing/welding idea! Does anyone have any photos/examples of this in action?
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Philly,
Usually the brush cover plate on a generator has a short tube built into it for venting purposes. This cover plate is rotated to align the tube with an opening in the cooling baffle just above the generator. Then the ram air entering the right nose cowl opening blasts directly into the generator. There is no added tubing required. This opening is located in the lower inboard aft corner of the baffle next to the crankcase.
Do you have a generator or alternator?
Late to the party, as usual.
Original O-235 baffles, exhaust and muffler/heat box pics
View attachment 46967 View attachment 46968 View attachment 46969 View attachment 46970 View attachment 46971 View attachment 46972View attachment 46973
On picture 1, the long scat tube goes to the muffler, left intake on the top for the carb heat. The scat tube shown attached to the muffler pic goes to the airbox for heated carb air.
On picture 3, the large scat tube goes to the intake on the heat box for fresh cabin air, the small scat tube is blast air for the generator.
There is another air intake that attaches to the heat muff just above the exhaust tube in the last picture.
Wayne
BRILLIANT!!!! Thank you Wayne!! I KNEW I'd seen a photo somewhere of a smaller Scat tube teeing off the air intake on the Starboard Cowling baffle but COULD NOT remember where it was and HERE it is!!!!! Picture 3 is EXACTLY what I'm doing, but the teeing is slightly downstream of the Scat, but doing EXACTLY the same thing!!!! I'll post a pic when it's done. Thanks again