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35” wheel options - experimental

vj88

Registered User
Anchorage, AK
Hello,

I am finalizing a spec sheet for a 4 place cub build with toe brakes. I have been reviewing wheels and brakes and am interested in others reviews or options. I want to go with the beringer setup primarily because of the weight savings being that I’m buying new and not having to monitor fluid levels in the factory brakes. It sounds like i should save atleast 8 pounds which is a significant way to cut weight. Those with their 10” wheel and brake how do you like them? Who did you buy your beringer parts through? I do have concerns with getting parts and timeliness of orders and responses. My other option is to go with the abw wheel and i could get matco cylinders and grove or abw brake kit but again i really don’t want to deal with adding fluid to brakes with a 2020 build.
 
You already add gas and oil, whats the big deal with a little squirt of brake fluid once a month?

Glenn
 
It's your airplane and your money, but using the excuse of adding or not adding brake fluid to justify buying an expensive foreign made landing gear is just an excuse. Many brake systems never need to have brake fluid added.
 
All the master cylinders I have seen for toe brakes are vented, no issue with adding fluid like stock heel brakes.

Beringer should be available from Airframes, are they stocking them along with spare parts? 8 lbs is the difference in the wheels and brake discs? That is a lot. Curious to see how the sliding disc holds up in the sand and grit. There is a reason we don't see any Goodyear wheels and brakes anymore except the wheels holding the old Bushwheels on my gate. Beringer folks seem pretty smart so they have probably modernized the design.
 
I agree with the question regarding 8 pounds. I’ve weighed a lot of wheels, brakes etc. 8 pounds sounds pretty optimistic.
if weight is an issue (and it always is) the 35’s Vs 31’s is huge. If you really need 35’s ok, but that is close to 40 pounds heavier than 31’s.

JMHO

Bill
 
If you go with Beringer I would get them from Airframes, they are here and stand behind everything they sell!! If you get some on line stuff you get to play the phone/UPS/need to see failed part game. Talk to Gabe at Reeves he should have all the weights. Whatever you use I would make sure you have brakes on both sides up front.
DENNY
 
I am using airframes 3"extended gear. Airframes no longer carries Beringer however Aircraft Spruce does as well as a few lower 48 reps.

Unfortunately I do not have any parts to weigh so referenced Airframes and Beringers sites.
The ABW 10" wheel/disc weigh 13 pounds each (Airframes site). Does anyone have a Cleveland or ABW single Caliper weight?
The Beringer 10" Wheel disc and caliper combo weigh 11.54 pounds (Beringer catalog).

Until I can find an ABW/Cleveland Caliper weight lets call it 1.5 pounds. So 14.5 pounds per wheel total for the ABW at 29 pounds for both sides.
Beringer at 11.54 pounds per side is 23.08 pounds. That's a 5.92 pound savings.
 
2.45 lbs for magnesium caliper, torque plate, brake pads w/backing plates pistons and bolts. Looks like Beringers will save you 7.8 lbs total on you airplane on 35s.
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I know weight reduction is serious business in airplanes, but don't discount reliability when you are on your quest to save weight.

Tim
 
Why ABWs? Parts availability literally across the runway. Standard brake parts available everywhere. Ease of switching back and forth to 6" wheels. My Cub uses Grove brakes with ABW or Grove wheels depending on the tires. Interchangeable with Cleveland wheels. I like the universal approach.

To the weight of 35s? Worth every pound on my plane. I suppose the same might be said for amphib floats for others. They aren't light but they have their place, right?
 
Downfall of berringer is if your swapping wheels that would get expensive, and you can go from 10” to 6” without changing the calipers. Sucks if you go from 35’s to 8.50’s for wheel skis. One thing I’ve noticed is the “buy my product and save x amount of weight” is usually grossly exaggerated.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If you do a search I think Grove made some 10 inch rims for the 35inch Bushwheel. That would give you the bigger disk. Are you going to run skis?
DENNY
 
I love em. Have at least a few hundred hours on them now. The brakes are noticeably stronger as one would expect going from 6” to 10”. It’s also nice to have modern brake pads that actually come with backing plates like cars have for decades now. It was recommended (but not required) when I installed them that I use their master cylinders as well which I did. Weight of these and the Matco’s were essentially identical. I took the opportunity to install their parking brake valve which I hadn’t had before.

No idea what was meant about brake line install issues or fittings or whatever, I certainly had no problem installing anything, the kit was complete. I did decided to replace all the brake lines (again not required) and I choose to use the next size smaller line.

Love the sealed bearings, no cleaning/greasing required and no adjustment needed, just tighten em down.

Any idea that the spoke wheels or larger discs will somehow get dirtier is just not true. These are 35’s. If you bury 35’s deep enough to get dirt or mud on the rotors or the inside of the wheel because of the spokes, you’ve got bigger problems- you either need to dig your plane out (don’t ask how I know) or flip it over and back on its wheels.

And I have taken off and landed in snow as well, again no issues with either the brakes or wheels.

But....if you don’t want or need to save the weight, and don’t want or need to stop significantly shorter...there would be no reason to change over from an existing brake system. Building a new plane, well I for one like to use technology that post dates the ‘57 Chevy.

As far as wheel skis go, yes, you’d have to change the wheel assembly, calipers and all. And as I’ve already shown you can use an inline brake fitting that keeps you from loosing brake fluid or needing to bleed the brakes. I do that not for wheel skis but for board skis with the Grizzly Claw brakes. Pretty easy.
 
Oh, and I ordered a spare set of brake pads to have on hand, but have yet to need them. No maintenance issues or parts failures. Excellent product.
 
Ok, so seems they are lighter, give better braking and no maintenance issues, do I have to ask what the set up costs?
 
Feb 18, $4,139.24 and that was everything from the brake master cylinders to the axle caps, including the parking brake. Brake fluid was not included.
 
I have the Beringer wheels, master cyls, and brakes with the parking brake option on my Northstar. Previously had Cleveland’s and they wouldn’t hold the plane for a run up. The Beringer stuff works wonderfully. I have no regrets and also found no issues using their brake hoses and fittings. Would do it again in a heartbeat as I now have a great brake system that works.


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org
 
This is my quote frome Beringer 1-17-2019. Suppose to be installing this on a Carbon Cub FX3 shortly and will report back.
AV-CUB-321(A) 10'' Wheels and brakes kit - axle 1.25'' 1,00 $3,990.00
RF-024(C) 10" wheel assembly 2,00
EA-010.1N(B) Brake Assembly 2,00
BGE-036(A) Caliper spacer axle 1.25 2,00
BGE-017.3(A) Brake bushing 4,00
BGE-037(A) Bearing spacer, axis 1.25 4,00
ECR-006.1(A) Threated cap 2,00
AN4-11A Screw 8,00
NAS1149F0416P Washer 8,00
MS21042-4 Nut 8,00
MS24665-362 Cotter pin 2,00
ZPA03 Safety wire for one 10" wheel-130MM 2,00
MP-002.7N(A) Master Cylinder Assembly 2,00 $257.00
MP-002.1N(A) Master Cylinder Assembly 1,00
MP-002N(A) Master cylinder 1,00
ZM-001 Rod end for MP-002 1,00
CHP-006(A) Clevis 1,00


RV-001N(A) Brake fluid reservoir 2,00 $67.00


HYD-002OP Banjo fitting 20° 4,00 $12.37


HYD-003P Banjo bolt 6,00 $4.22


HYD-005B Copper seal 30,00 $0.55


HYD-032A Stainless steel brake hose diam. 1/4'' (per ft) 24,00 $6.14
 
82561790_10221019680703194_569338670029471744_n.jpg
 
Introductory price $2980
Feb 2019 price $3990
Todays price. $5679.88

It don’t pay to linger so guess it’s Jenny Craig for me.
 
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