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Super Cub Plans?

Cashcrazy

Registered User
I have been lurking for several months while researching a scratch build. I can usually have my questions answered by searching, but have not found what I am looking for. There are tons of threads from people wanting plans for a scratch build and usually are encouraged to purchase the North Land plans. I have not purchased these plans because what I have read is that they contain original factory PA18 plans. Someone please correct me if this is not correct. I would like to find plans that include basic “Alaskan mods”. I would greatly appreciate any info that would steer me in the right direction in my search.
 
Cashcrazy

To the best of my knowledge there are no plans that include the "Alaska Mods".

There is a list of most mods and a little info about them. Starting here....https://www.supercub.org/forum/show...g-a-Javron-Cub&p=525332&viewfull=1#post525332

If you are serious about building I recommend you get a notebook and take notes of all the stuff you want to do, ideas you see, things to buy, etc. It will really help you to keep it all in one place.

Hope this helps

Bill
 
Bill thank you for sharing the link. I will read through it. Is the Northland disc/usb drive still the best resource for plans? It looks like I still have a lot of planning ahead for the fuselage, but there are plenty of small parts to start fabricating while I research. Thanks again
 
Yes, Northstar is still your best bet. Although you can access most of the drawings off of Christian Sturm‘s website as well. You are correct, lots of little things to fabricate. I would also suggest, or consider, using Javron, Wag Aero, Univar, etc. for some of the more difficult to fabricate parts. Unless you just have a particular burning desire to fabricate each and every part yourself, sometimes it can be helpful to have (and save a lot of time) some professional help along the way.


Hope this helps

Bill
 
The Cub Club has prints for some of the other models, like PA-12 and J3 but they are not complete sets and frequently lack dimensions or detail.
Wag Aero has plans for the 2+2 and others, but their implementation is quite different from Piper.

Wayne
 
Thanks for the replies.

Bill - I will certainly be using some professional help along the way when needed. No burning desire to do it all myself.

flybynite - I’ll check out Cub Club. I originally was considering a J3 project, but kept returning to the SC.
 
Thanks for the replies.

Bill - I will certainly be using some professional help along the way when needed. No burning desire to do it all myself.

flybynite - I’ll check out Cub Club. I originally was considering a J3 project, but kept returning to the SC.

If you are in the US, be sure to use the FAA checklist when buying prefabricated parts or using professional help. That’s how your DAR will determine if your aircraft is eligible for Amateur Built.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
If you are in the US, be sure to use the FAA checklist when buying prefabricated parts or using professional help. That’s how your DAR will determine if your aircraft is eligible for Amateur Built.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thank you! Will do
 
Most of the drawings on the Northland CD have been redrawn. The most important "Alaskan" mods I know of are pretty simple, we did most of them today on an L21. X brace the top deck, X in the tail and seat belts to the floor along with a bushing in the tail spring attach fitting. If you read the previous threads and look at posted pictures it is pretty cut and dry. If you are commited enough to build from scratch I would join SuperCub.org, Buy the Northland CD, download drawings from Christian's website and read lots of posts. Also define the mission for your airplane and get some stick time in a Super Cub to help better define the mods you would like to do.
 
One thing to consider is your mission. Most all of the mods add weight. Some of the mods are for safety, others strengthen areas that have bending/cracking issues, and others are to increase ease of loading, load capacity/fuel or cargo. Just because a mod is available does not mean it is without issues also. Large upper and lower baggage doors are great but can leak is not sealed properly, Flat floor mod can have issues with control cable contamination, sleeping in the plane. If you are going to haul large propane cylinders flipping the dogleg base to the right side lets it slide in the front door easier. Extended gear with large tires make it hard to get in an out of and fueling the plane for some. A belly pod is simple bolt on that provides great storage, however you may have wanted long range fuel so it is a fuel pod or 60 gal tanks. Borer props are the standard because they pull hard out of the hole and can cut a lot of brush without too much damage but they are heavy. Full metal interior is very nice if you are throwing gear in and out all day long. As is a rear stick cover. How are you doing rear seat/defroster heat for - 30 temps. Shooter window/full front slider on left side? All of this has to be considered when you build the fuselage so tabs can be placed in advance. Lots of time will be spend assembling and disassembling to get it all right. Most cubs with all the Alaska Mods run in the 1200 lb range even with carbon fiber floor. Just thing to ponder.
DENNY
 
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