wdoubleday
Registered User
Hi Folks,
just finishing my engine installation and the last task is to paint my cowling doors. I’ve been using the Stewarts system on my project. The main color is sport yellow. The picture below is the first time this has happened to me, but have read previous accounts of a similar situation where all looks good, you’ve achieved the gloss wet look on your final spray, but after an overnight cure, the surface looks like 50 grit sandpaper. I have been using their Ekocrylic on all composite and metal parts, as directed. No issues to date as I’ve been sticking to their parameters for shooting their paint.
Just wanted to pass along what I probably did wrong. In shooting my last part, this cowling door, I let my shop get a little too warm up to 85 F. I also shot too much paint on this part. The top coat started to set before the underlying paint was still off-gassing water vapor which caused the surface to form these microbubbles. This is the one downside of waterbourne paints where the flashpoint of water is higher than lower boiling point solvents that evaporate more quickly. Need to allow sufficient time between coats, and minimize the amount of paint you spray. The other issue is selecting yellow which is the toughest color to get color saturation on your parts. Small part is easy to remedy but always extra work - sand down to primer and reshoot. When properly applied, the Stewarts paint seems to work well, but time will tell.
cheers,
Wendel
just finishing my engine installation and the last task is to paint my cowling doors. I’ve been using the Stewarts system on my project. The main color is sport yellow. The picture below is the first time this has happened to me, but have read previous accounts of a similar situation where all looks good, you’ve achieved the gloss wet look on your final spray, but after an overnight cure, the surface looks like 50 grit sandpaper. I have been using their Ekocrylic on all composite and metal parts, as directed. No issues to date as I’ve been sticking to their parameters for shooting their paint.
Just wanted to pass along what I probably did wrong. In shooting my last part, this cowling door, I let my shop get a little too warm up to 85 F. I also shot too much paint on this part. The top coat started to set before the underlying paint was still off-gassing water vapor which caused the surface to form these microbubbles. This is the one downside of waterbourne paints where the flashpoint of water is higher than lower boiling point solvents that evaporate more quickly. Need to allow sufficient time between coats, and minimize the amount of paint you spray. The other issue is selecting yellow which is the toughest color to get color saturation on your parts. Small part is easy to remedy but always extra work - sand down to primer and reshoot. When properly applied, the Stewarts paint seems to work well, but time will tell.
cheers,
Wendel