Bleed Cub Crafters Brakes

H

Hendoii

FRIEND

• Nov 24, 2019

• #1

All,
I'm tired of blowing 5606 all over the floor of my cub when I bleed the brakes and want to buy a bleeder screw for the vents on the reservoirs so I can start to use a hose and a bottle. I've looked at the STC paperwork, but can't determine what size the "Vent Screw" is. Does anybody know the size and thread type? Do any of the options from Aircraft spruce fit?


Also, for those of you that use them, do you just leave the new assembly in all the time or do you remove them after bleeding and replace the cap?


Thanks in advance!

 

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wireweinie

FOUNDER

Palmer, AK

• Nov 24, 2019

• #2

Look up the thread size of the AN plug or the brass adapter.

Web

 

mike mcs repair

Registered User

chugiak AK

• Nov 24, 2019

• #3

Pretty sure it’s 1/8 pipe into top of resivor. Sky wagon 8a would know since he designed it


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mike mcs repair

Registered User

chugiak AK

• Nov 24, 2019

• #4

So the left one in your picture


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B

bob turner

Registered User

• Nov 24, 2019

• #5

I use Grove masters. They really need a bleeder screw in my opinion. I drill and tap 1/8 NPT as far forward on top as I can get. I can use a clear piece of model airplane fuel hose into a jar for filling, but best of all, after they sit for a while, I can pressurize the brake, crack the bleeder, and watch the air sputter out. Yeah, I put rags on the floor to do that.

Some Grove masters have bleeder screws already - just not the 95-1/2, which are complete new assemblies, pedal and all.

 

skywagon8a

MEMBER

SE Mass MA6

• Nov 25, 2019

• #6

1/8" pipe. The brass adapter is only there so that the original plug can be used.

Some of the original master cylinders used a 1/8" pipe plug as a filler cap, thus the brass adapter to accommodate both types of caps.

 

Last edited: Nov 25, 2019

Steve Pierce

BENEFACTOR

Graham, TX

• Nov 25, 2019

• #7

The plug is a straight thread sealed with a gasket. I cut off a bolt and drilled the center. Pictures of my bleeding rig here. https://www.supercub.org/forum/showthread.php?42607-Brake-bleeding

 

Steve Pierce

BENEFACTOR

Graham, TX

• Nov 25, 2019

• #8

The thread of the plug is 3/8 fine thread. I drilled and tapped a bolt and installed a bleeder barb to attach a hose to that I screw into the top of the master cylinder when bleeding from below.

 

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H

Hendoii

FRIEND

• Nov 25, 2019

• #9

That is exactly what I needed to know Steve! Thanks for the details. It appears you should patent and sell that set up! I'm definitely going to build one. On another note, have you had any issues with keeping the cubcrafters brakes free of bubbles? My old cub had stock brakes and they never softened. It seems like I have to bleed these out every few months to keep them solid. I'm not seeing any visible leaks in the system anywhere and they have awesome power when bled, but they seem to soften up over time. Hope all is well in West-Texas

Thanks!

 

H

Hendoii

FRIEND

• Nov 25, 2019

• #10

skywagon8a said:

1/8" pipe. The brass adapter is only there so that the original plug can be used.

Some of the original master cylinders used a 1/8" pipe plug as a filler cap, thus the brass adapter to accommodate both types of caps.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the insight Skywagon8a. Nice to have a first-hand account!

 

Steve Pierce

BENEFACTOR

Graham, TX

• Nov 25, 2019

• #11

The brakes constantly need servicing. Just add fluid, no need to bleed. Pull the cap, fill to the top, reinstall the cap, push the pedal several times and repeat till firm. This is a closed system and temperature and pressure effect them. Steve's brakes and Dakota cub brakes are vented and eliminate this issue.