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79 PA-18 wing repair

Gnarly

Registered User
Hi everyone. I just bought a cub, which is great. The ferry pilot ground looped it, which is not so great. The right wing got bent. It needs fairly extensive repairs. I'd love to hear any and all recommendations including repair facility in the pacific northwest that might work on it. No one in my area is doing fabric work anymore.
 
Cubcrafters. Check for bent items on fuse and wing attach points. Sorry about the tough luck.

Kurt
 
Dakota Cub makes wings. They quoted three months, so we just bought spars and some ribs. Their parts are superb - not 100% sure they interchange with Piper. One phone call will probably say "yes, they do."

If you don't "do it yourself" you may be looking at $20 grand. Things are not cheap any more.
 
Just rear spar bent?? You can replace it without recovering. Ask if you want details. Takes a day or so.


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org
 
Some VERY IMPORTANT STEPS. ASK. But here’s pictures of how you do it. Wing is placed upside down on MANY saw horses and maybe a long 2x4”. You ONLY OPEN BOTTOM fabric. You cut bent spar in pieces and remove(2 or 3 cuts at bent area only, use cutoff wheel on die grinder, don’t MELT FABRIC WITH SPARKS/hot aluminum). Then slide new spar in from wing root. You MUST cut rib stitches AT BOTTOM OF RIB, right between rib and fabric, so you can tie them back to top of rib(tape rib with antichafe tape). You ignore bottom fabric wing stitch wise. So all in you need a spar ($400??) and a day or so. Hide the fabric repair in aileron and flap cove. Make sure to use a tube to keep fabric/paint from cracking where you have it folded back (plastic sewer pipe works great). Done many. The fabric work will take longer than replacing the spar. If you even bother painting the repair since it’s mostly out of sight if you do it right. Keep track of how many turns you loosen brace wires. Easiest to pick a number like 3 turns each. Then return them to that setting after spar is replaced...

all simple work, you should be able to do most of it yourself, with supervision of your mechanic to sign it off.... longest part of project is getting the screws out of the rib/spars


https://photos.app.goo.gl/yA2WPUqryeXmozU86
https://photos.app.goo.gl/u4YmDfVKQo3N6mcN6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/e2chC2nvUVkhJDae6


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app
 
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Wow! I would never have thought of that. Not sure I would have that kind of courage. If you do that, pre-tap the rib holes. An 18" Snap-On screwdriver is not enough.

I am impressed! Very innovative! I had to do both spars and four ribs - the rear spar was well under $400, but shipping will double the cost.

Couldn't pull up your photos, but I believe you. Covering is time consuming - I have six hours in, and only the bottom is covered (all the reinforcements are glued, but no rib stitch marks yet).
 
Can be done without a lot of trouble, If riveted fabric pull the tape but takes a bit of sanding.
 
2nd try posting pictures, this time as screenshots
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you will also need to remove and reinstall bushing at wing attach/spar doubler as normal

not a method I came up with... common repair procedure..
 

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Hi everyone. I just bought a cub, which is great. The ferry pilot ground looped it, which is not so great. The right wing got bent. It needs fairly extensive repairs. I'd love to hear any and all recommendations including repair facility in the pacific northwest that might work on it. No one in my area is doing fabric work anymore.

Where in the Pacific Northwest are you?
 
The Port Townsend Aero Museum does great work.
They're pretty busy but they might be able to slot you in.
Better / quicker if you just bring the wing in.
PTAM 360-379-5244
Where are you located?
Or beytter yet, where's the airplane?
Hope your "ferry pilot" at least had the courtesy to ground loop it at the final destination.
 
I could do it but it would be sometime 2021 before I could get it in... have 3 other projects scheduled..

Rag wood Refactory in Creswell OR would be a good shop.. Kyle does great work..

Brian


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thank you to all who have responded and sent messages. For those of you who are curious the tail number is N82253 and is now unfortunately part of the "database" haha. After my friend had his little wild ride I arranged to fly up to Anchorage where I rented a 26 foot uhaul, drove to Tok, and then with the help of some local heroes we took her apart and I drove the Alcan back to Montana where I live. Chris, Paul and Ron saved my bacon. Without their help she'd still be in AK. She made the trip mostly unscathed. Aside from the wing and gear damage it has a few more cosmetic flaws after the trip and will need some gear work. There's no evidence of prop strike, but we'll tear it down anyway. I'm very excited to put it back together and learn as much as I can while doing so. Any and all advice is greatly appreciated. IMG_2542.JPGIMG_2751.jpgIMG_2747[1].jpg
 

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Thank you to all who have responded and sent messages. For those of you who are curious the tail number is N82253 and is now unfortunately part of the "database" haha. After my friend had his little wild ride I arranged to fly up to Anchorage where I rented a 26 foot uhaul, drove to Tok, and then with the help of some local heroes we took her apart and I drove the Alcan back to Montana where I live. Chris, Paul and Ron saved my bacon. Without their help she'd still be in AK. She made the trip mostly unscathed. Aside from the wing and gear damage it has a few more cosmetic flaws after the trip and will need some gear work. There's no evidence of prop strike, but we'll tear it down anyway. I'm very excited to put it back together and learn as much as I can while doing so. Any and all advice is greatly appreciated. View attachment 45110View attachment 45111View attachment 45112

ouch!! never mind sliding in a spar... you definitely need a wing rebuild...

dakota cub has some good info on building wings... http://dakotacub.com/support.html might be more somewhere else on their site, seem to recall a wing building manual...

you might check the jackscrew for being bent, since elevator hit ground...
 
I'm not sure what happened, other than loss of directional control lol. My buddy that was flying and the A&P who was with him describe him making a near stalled three point landing in a heavy direct crosswind. The guys who helped get it off the runway and who subsequently helped me take the wings off said that the normal procedure is to land on the gravel next to the runway (TOK airfield) because the runway is heavily slopped from center line to the edges of the runway, and that the tires probably greatly contributed as they are grooved and new. The right gear collapsed. After taking it apart the hydrosorb broke at the upper fitting (upper bungee fitting snapped off). The bungees are still good. The hydrosorb cover is easily repairable. The hydrosorb that is now on the airplane is a loaner from Paul at Tok and I'll send it back as soon as I weld the old one back together (to use as a place holder, not for flying, until I decide if I want to stay stock with the shocks). I just started this process and I still have the bubble wrap marks on my forehead so if I say wonky things please bear with me, and again thank you to everyone who has sent messages.

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I'm very sorry for the temporary loss and hope it gets back to normal soon. Mike's on to something and have a look at the gear for internal corrosion. I like wheel landings but eventually the tail's got to come down.

I lived there in 1974 and flew before the runway was paved and raised. The Tok River drainage can blow North or South at times, and if from the South we'd land on the gravel parking ramp midway down the runway and cross the runway if not stopped. Or, go to the older Tok (Lodge) strip south of town that's better oriented and where I parked. Even Tanacross airport west if it's still functional. I see that paving crown in pics of the airport and wondered why it ended up like that.

You've got our best wishes for support and a recovery.

Gary
 
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That looks just like the damage I am repairing. Pilot bounced, the aircraft lurched left. He went immediately to full power and full aft stick, and it snapped.

Rib stitching tomorrow. Dakota Cub is your friend. If you can weld, you can easily fix and cover. Does not require more than medium talent.
 
I wouldn't bother doing engine unless there is visible prop damage.... waste of time & money(even if there is visible prop damage... it's a useless AD...)

I did manage to zoom into that picture...shock strut didn't fail... gear leg just folded up... looks like legs have the beef ups at axel.... original light gear modified? or heavy duty gear?

the gear is what cost the wing..(well... not going strait started it ...)
 
I won't be back home for another 10 days but I'll post a pick when I'm home. From what I remember in addition to the hydrosorb breaking at the upper bungee fitting, the main gear support tube mental bent 90 degrees with the tire rotating up (the pic shows that a little). From an engineering perspective the down force generated in the turn snapped the hydrosorb, which then could not provide any hold back force allowing the wheel assembly to act as a lever on the upper gear supports, which then bent the upper arm 90 degrees up. At some point I'll learn the names of these parts which will help haha.
 
Ok, that's good to know. I can weld, but I'm definitely not better than medium talent at anything other than beer drinking.
 
Gnarly, your airplane has the look about it of original 1979 fabric. Just a little curious is it?
Thanks,Mark
 
The airplane is almost 100% 1979 original and I want to keep it that way but not if safety dictates changes. I think some of the skin is newer because some of the inspection holes weren't cut yet.
 
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