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Thread: Javron Cub

  1. #1
    Cubus Maximus's Avatar
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    Javron Cub

    Several of us stopped by JL's place on Saturday to look at the Javron Cub he's building. His workmanship is fantastic!

    L-21
    4 Inch Wider Fuse
    Squared Wings
    PS Flaps
    Easier Angle Door etc etc





























    Last edited by Cubus Maximus; 09-29-2019 at 03:21 PM.
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  2. #2
    mvivion's Avatar
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    Good to see Jay has adopted the late model Husky Lower door shape. Makes entry/exit a LOT easier for us less flexible types.

    Nice workmanship on that project.

    MTV
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  3. #3
    WWhunter's Avatar
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    Very nice! I also like his fuselage rotator!!!
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  4. #4
    Jlee's Avatar
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    Thanks for stopping in Brad! Nice to have visitors drop in to the farm strip, will have the coffee pot on in hangar as soon as hunting season is over and it's time start scratching my head and working on the cub again.


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  5. #5

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    Great to see guys love the pics. I have a Kit being built at Jays love the info and ideas.
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  6. #6
    Flying Miss Daisy's Avatar
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    Are the floor panels Carbon fiber insulated? I like the L21 glass but I always enjoyed the look of my cub with the rear side glass being slanted back not square.
    NICE WORK
    John
    Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention to arrive safely in a well preserved body but rather to slide in sideways, well used up proclaiming "WOW What a Ride"

  7. #7
    Jlee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flying Miss Daisy View Post
    Are the floor panels Carbon fiber insulated? I like the L21 glass but I always enjoyed the look of my cub with the rear side glass being slanted back not square.
    NICE WORK
    John
    Baggage compartment bottom and floor boards are carbon fiber, they were part of the kit I purchased from Jay.

    For those who may question my ELT antenna installation that is shown in the pictures, this may or may not show what I will end up with. I visited with WEB and am exploring some other options before a final installation decision is made. I know this is a polarizing and much debated topic...For those specifically who have built or are building a JAVRON kit, I am interested in seeing how you addressed the ELT Antenna. Where, why and how? Inside fuselage, outside fuselage, vertical, angled, ground plane etc- Pictures would be much appreciated, either post here or if more comfortable send to me offline.
    Thanks!
    Jon Lee
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  8. #8

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    Here’s one set-up for a Javron ELT.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jlee View Post
    Thanks for stopping in Brad! Nice to have visitors drop in to the farm strip, will have the coffee pot on in hangar as soon as hunting season is over and it's time start scratching my head and working on the cub again.


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    Your panels look great. Did you powder coat your black throttle cover?

  10. #10
    Jlee's Avatar
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    Sam, I did powder coat all interior panels. I am happy with the results. Thanks for posting the ELT Antenna example, I saw this same one at Jays. Will be curious how you do yours... I live about 15 minutes from Jays, feel free to stop in and look at my project anytime.
    Thanks
    Jon
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  11. #11

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    Thanks Jon. My ELT set-up may look a lot like yours and Jays!

  12. #12

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    Even the planter is clean! I can’t tell you the last 4 row planter I’ve seen. I only dream my shop that clean, every time it gets clean someone drags something dirty or muddy in.
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  13. #13
    Jlee's Avatar
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    Javron Cub

    If I spent less time cleaning my hangar and more time working on the cub, maybe I would be further along.
    Last edited by Jlee; 10-04-2019 at 10:02 PM.
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  14. #14
    RVBottomly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jlee View Post
    If I spent less time cleaning my hangar and more time working on the cub, maybe I would be further along.
    I clean my shop every 6 months whether it needs it or not. I'm always amazed at what I find.

    But yours is very nice. It looks comfortable to work in. Clutter causes confusion, at least for me, and I think time spent tidying up might more than balance the time spent looking for the tool you just put down....
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  15. #15
    Jlee's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Question for you Javron builders.. When the time comes for me to fasten the upper baggage door hinge to the door frame, what is the preferred method being the fuselage tube is directly below it?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I need to put a bend in the large baggage door approx where the line is marked, any advice on how to do this and make it look good? It needs to be a variable bend.

    Thanks
    Jlee

  16. #16

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    Riveting the frames on the baggage doors as well as half the hinges was one of the things I did in my week in Brainerd. I can’t remember if the bend was already there as part of the kit or if we put it in but it’s there now.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I’m also curious about the hinge connection to frame.
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  17. #17

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    If possible I would not drill into any fuselage tube to attach a hinge. You are begging for a water leak/rust/freeze crack if you do (especially in that location!!!!!). It looks like you have a angle/tabs welded in to support the floor of the upper baggage. Suck it up and drill out what you have. Recut upper baggage floor to extend under the hinge/get wider hinge and attach inboard of the tube.
    DENNY

  18. #18
    Jlee's Avatar
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    Denny, If I do what you are suggesting I would also need to modify/remove the Standing lip on lower portion of the frame.. having that lip there helps keep the water out of the baggage area..really curious how others have addressed this.
    Thanks
    Jlee


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  19. #19

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    Are your pop rivets set into the frame you are talking about? If so that is where the screws for the door hinge should go. Do you have pics without the extended baggage floor installed? My post is directed to the upper baggage door.
    DENNY

  20. #20

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    The frame for the upper baggage door does not appear to rest directly on the frame tube. As such, there may be some room to pop rivet the hinge in. For Denny and others, here is what the open frame looks like (2nd and 3rd pics are from inside looking out).
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I measured the tube itself at .757” (3/4” plus powder coat) and the window frame lip to bottom of tube at .878”

  21. #21
    Jlee's Avatar
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    Sam,
    Thanks for posting these pictures, I will do a little more investigating to see if there is room to sneak some rivets in off center to try and miss the fuselage tube. If I get a chance to visit with Jay soon, I will find out what he recommends.
    Jlee

  22. #22

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    How is the frame attached to the top longeron? Maybe some kind of double side tape or high tech bonding agent for attaching the hinge.
    DENNY

  23. #23

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    The frame is tack welded to the front of the longeron. Hopefully you can see it in this picture:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    So the flat part part of the frame that would receive the hinge is floating above the longeron. Here’s a side photo:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    That gap, at the apex of the tube (I.e. the narrowest point) is about .06 inches.

    Jon - it looks like there is more space closer to the front of the frame than the rear.
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  24. #24

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    How about putting the hinge on the front upright part of the frame? Instead of opening with the door dropping down it will open to the front. What was the plan for securing the door in place once closed?
    DENNY
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  25. #25
    Jlee's Avatar
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    Denny, the upper and lower baggage doors come with a keyed latch on the upper edge of the doors.
    Jlee


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  26. #26
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Jay copied this baggage mod from Butch Cavenagh is Alaska who sells it throu F. Atlee Dodge and Airframes Alaska. I have installed several of the STC'd versions. Not sure how close he copied it but I install nut plates on the bottom of the welded in channel to attach the baggage door hing to and it also makes it easily removable. If you install after the fact you can drill the holes and then pull a nut plate up into the hole with a piece of safety wire.

    Maybe Jay should participate here on SuperCub.org and help spread the word to his customers. One post here helps many people rather than taking phone calls that helps one.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers
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  27. #27
    Jlee's Avatar
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    Steve,
    Thanks for the information. I would love to be able to get nut plates underneath, just don’t see how to do it. Going to spend some time this evening looking into it a little deeper and considering my options. I know Jay is really busy with builders assist but I am hoping to get a few minutes of his time this weekend. Stay tuned.
    Jon

  28. #28
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    I went back and read again and see you are dealing with an upper baggage door not the lower. I have installed nut plates in the lower door tubing by drilling holes and pulling the nut plates into position with safety wire. If you have an opening big enough somewhere this might be an option.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers
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  29. #29

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    Had some time to think about it. Bonding the hinge is probably a bad ideal because the fabric will be covering the frame before the hinge is placed on. As much as I hate pop rivets do you have enough room for small/short ones outboard of the tube? If you go back to Bill's build he has good advice on how to place the hinge.
    https://www.supercub.org/forum/showt...l=1#post611597

    DENNY
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  30. #30
    Jlee's Avatar
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    Thanks Denny,
    Based on the different ideas that have been thrown out so far, I will be looking into following Bill's example. My concern is it appears like I may not have as much space between the fuselage tube and bottom flange of the door frame as Sam D has shown in the sample photos of his project. My door frame appears to sit lower or tighter to the longeron. I realize this hinge will not be attached until much later in the process (After fabric, paint etc) but I want to figure out how it will done at this point so I am not working myself into the proverbial "Corner". For a first time builder, the whole sequencing of tasks and avoiding the oops shouldn't have done that yet is a challenge. I am a machinist/Toolmaker by trade and by nature like to have things planned out several steps ahead with not a lot of back tracking.. wish me luck
    Thanks for all of the input, I appreciate all of it even if I may not follow some of it.
    Jon
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  31. #31

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    It is always better to have every part on the plane at least once before fabric goes on so you are on the right path. You could always just grind off the spot welds put in nut plats and reweld, how hard could that be
    DENNY
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