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Thread: Aerothane question

  1. #1

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    Aerothane question

    Whatever else can be said about the “Ellis” Cubs, their fabric was beautiful - a work of art. I am tasked with supervising a repair - I will be trying to match 2003 Aerothane Cub Yellow.

    My question: I need to put a sandable coat of white on top of the Poly Spray prior to shooting the catalyzed yellow. Any thoughts or advice? I am a dope or dope and acrylic enamel kind of guy, and have never attempted any urethanes. I will have a spray gun expert shoot the last coat.

  2. #2
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    White Polytone. That is what I use over Polyspray (silver) prior to red, yellow etc. You should get a Polyfiber manual and read it. Lots of good information that you will probably enjoy reading.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
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    I read my first one in 1969. Bought stuff from Ray Stitts himself. My airplane is approved for Stitts through silver, then anything. Later manuals are less forgiving.

    My problem with Poly Tone is that it sands like rubber. This finish, to match, has to be dead smooth.

  4. #4

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    Ellis Clark J3?
    Not Aerothane, high solids automotive paint.
    He does do beautiful fabric work though.

  5. #5
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Never had an issue with it being rough or sanding.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers
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    No kidding? It is clear he used Stitts fabric and Poly Brush.

    Tell me more. Logbook says Aerothane Cub yellow. His IA approved several major alterations. I converted them to field approvals. I am skeptical when it comes to log entries on this one.

    The fabric is quite flexible, and dead-smooth. You can barely see the pinked edges.

    Steve - one of our Cubs is Poly Tone Cub Yellow. It is pretty rough, and I have tried sanding and machine buffing. It really needs Aerothane. I have been using your trick with Poly Brush to keep the non-pinked tapes in place. It will never be smooth - I do not possess that kind of patience.

  7. #7
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob turner View Post
    Whatever else can be said about the “Ellis” Cubs,
    which Ellis?

  8. #8
    algonquin's Avatar
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    Have you looked at Stewart System, there top coats shoot easy and smooth. They are very good to work with.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bob turner View Post
    No kidding? It is clear he used Stitts fabric and Poly Brush.

    Tell me more. Logbook says Aerothane Cub yellow. His IA approved several major alterations. I converted them to field approvals. I am skeptical when it comes to log entries on this one.

    The fabric is quite flexible, and dead-smooth. You can barely see the pinked edges.

    Steve - one of our Cubs is Poly Tone Cub Yellow. It is pretty rough, and I have tried sanding and machine buffing. It really needs Aerothane. I have been using your trick with Poly Brush to keep the non-pinked tapes in place. It will never be smooth - I do not possess that kind of patience.
    PM sent

  10. #10
    n40ff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    Never had an issue with it being rough or sanding.

    Ditto. Poly Brush is somewhat rubber like but IMO the rest of the process thru Poly Tone sands as well as dope. Most mistakes can be fixed with MEK.(not too much though)

    Later manuals are indeed "less forgiving" but many top coats applied like straight enamel and/or automotive finishes w/o flex agents didn't last and gave the process a bad name

    Jack

  11. #11

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    Yep. Talked to the original restorer. Poly Tone white under the yellow. I should be able to match the original - and the Wag wing rotator arrived today. Thanks for the hints. You guys steered me in the right direction.
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