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The "BEST" tie downs

I’ve used that knot for decades to secure airplanes. Sometimes called an “Airman’s Hitch”, it works well. I like to lock the hitch with a half hitch with the free end.

And, yes, that knot can loosen a bit if the airplane rocks a lot in a very gusty condition. That said, this is why I like to “tend” my airplane in a big wind, frequently checking on taughtness of lines. I don’t want to think of the sleepless nights that resulted from that, but never had a plane damaged by wind yet.

MTV
 
That is the knot I use also, I was a sailor in a previous life so I knew how to tie knots and the first time I saw it I was skeptical but it does work great. On the ground end I use a bowline hitch. I try to clip to the ground wire/chain/eye with a large carabiner so the rope does not chafe.
DENNY
 
I've had the best luck with twisted rope and the airplane knot. That method likes friction and pressure to work well and the twisted line is rougher than smooth braided. But like Mike notes over time it gives some and needs attention.

Another advantage of the airplane knot is that in can be adjusted during a wind event. Grab the rope and push up on the knot from below. It'll loosen the knot(s) enough to be unwrapped and the rope pulled tighter then retied. Regular monkey fist jammed up knots don't like to come apart easily.

Bowline knots should be kept under tension or they can loosen especially in the wind. Any knot will benefit from a simple tight half hitch followed by a plain knot on the loose end. The half hitch limits movement of the loose end and the plain knot prevents the rope/line from pulling back through others.

Try to put a full circle wrap of rope around any solid attachment (not just one half turn). That spreads the rope's stress instead of being focused on half or less.

Gary
 
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https://youtu.be/f2_BSFcCxhM?t=60


I've been using this knot lately. It's a variation of the bowline that can be tied under tension. It takes some effort to get it snug, but it will not come loose. Tested during the Friday night/Saturday morning blows at Oshkosh this year.

For tiedown stakes, I made mine from 1.00 x .125 aluminum tube drilled for four 14 inch nails, 10mm static line for rope. If I'm worried about the weather, I drive an extra anchor at the tail and one under the gear cabane for a five point tiedown. They hold real well in anything that's not too soft.
 
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Homey likes it!I could never tie it the other way. Looked like a sex knot!

https://youtu.be/f2_BSFcCxhM?t=60


I've been using this knot lately. It's a variation of the bowline that can be tied under tension. It takes some effort to get it snug, but it will not come loose. Tested during the Friday night/Saturday morning blows at Oshkosh this year.

For tiedown stakes, I made mine from 1.00 x .125 aluminum tube drilled for four 14 inch nails, 10mm static line for rope. If I'm worried about the weather, I drive an extra anchor at the tail and one under the gear cabane for a five point tiedown. They hold real well in anything that's not too soft.
 
I use nylon strap bike binders. Got rid of the hooks at the ends & have loops sewn or tied into the strap.
Usually loop it to the ground anchor, and use a shackle or carabiner at the wing eye.
Easy & seems to work well, although I've never experienced a windstorm event with them.
 
Having rode out some horrible blows in Alaska over the years, ( mostly down on the peninsula). A few things come to mind. Old timers like Don Johnson , John Swiss, and that crowd of old Polar Bear guides had some interesting " cub survival" methods you dont see much anymore.
Many of the old tie downs were simply
"Gas cans full of rocks, buryed 3/4 ft down". It was a common practice to have ' 4 way' tiedowns with positioning say 4ft out past wing strut to get proper wing rope angles. It was common to dig out holes for tires,so the Cub could be pulled down into them ( prop level to the ground) to REMOVE all AOA of the wings. This in itself makes a HUGE difference in how much ' dancing n twisting' a Cub will do in winds over 40kts. They never tied the tail tight, allways leaving a foot or so of slack. Never just tied to the loop or rings at end of struts, ALWAYS went around tbe strut and just used the tie down loop to make sure ropes couldnt slip down struts, after being streached. Most all of them had installed Atlees " filler blocks" to the Uchanel pieces that hold the strut to the spar, that eliminates that known failure point.
His over the spar bands are even a better cure. 1/2" pure Nylon ropes of a 'dock line' style were prefered type.
And last but NOT least a V of rope was tied forward from each wing strut to that 4th tie down creating a "shock absorber" that would become the 'saving grace' in the over 60kt blows.
Some guys claimed to simply tie from the back of the prop to the 4th tie down, and that would work too.
And the last resort was if you got caught out in a big blow is to simply " drive her in to the alders" till the prop augers a hole in, till the wings are fully
into the alders. This barbaric method has saved many a Cub because the wind ( even 80kt winds) are so defused coming thru the tops of the alders it has no where near the same lifting component as if the wing was subjected to the undisturbed air. I had a Cub tied in a' 4 way tiedown' Marlin Grasser had, in Amber Bay at spring bear camp, in a 70kt blow.
A young petrified pilot got caught on the east side, he landed when he saw our weatherport, in close to 40kt winds and nearly rolled it up in a ball, we walked him over by the tents and it was obvious he was going to loose the plane, I was telling him to" drive it in" but he really didnt get it???? But after the prop started cutting the way and us pushing we got it into the brush and was able to tie into some of the largest alders and he rode it out same as I did,with Kennon mesh covers, and tied 4 ways with tires down in their holes, but out in the open........... None of this stuff is for the meek of heart. But all of it might save you if you get caught some day.
E

Ps. You will need to saw off alot of the Alders you bend over driving in. As if you try pulling it out some may bind and poke holes in your bottom fabric.
Doesnt seam to bother a prop as much as you might think. Sounds crazy but it could save your butt.

Sent from my LM-X210 using SuperCub.Org mobile app
 
Having rode out some horrible blows in Alaska over the years, ( mostly down on the peninsula). A few things come to mind. Old timers like Don Johnson , John Swiss, and that crowd of old Polar Bear guides had some interesting " cub survival" methods you dont see much anymore.
Many of the old tie downs were simply
"Gas cans full of rocks, buryed 3/4 ft down". It was a common practice to have ' 4 way' tiedowns with positioning say 4ft out past wing strut to get proper wing rope angles. It was common to dig out holes for tires,so the Cub could be pulled down into them ( prop level to the ground) to REMOVE all AOA of the wings. This in itself makes a HUGE difference in how much ' dancing n twisting' a Cub will do in winds over 40kts. They never tied the tail tight, allways leaving a foot or so of slack. Never just tied to the loop or rings at end of struts, ALWAYS went around tbe strut and just used the tie down loop to make sure ropes couldnt slip down struts, after being streached. Most all of them had installed Atlees " filler blocks" to the Uchanel pieces that hold the strut to the spar, that eliminates that known failure point.
His over the spar bands are even a better cure. 1/2" pure Nylon ropes of a 'dock line' style were prefered type.
And last but NOT least a V of rope was tied forward from each wing strut to that 4th tie down creating a "shock absorber" that would become the 'saving grace' in the over 60kt blows.
Some guys claimed to simply tie from the back of the prop to the 4th tie down, and that would work too.
And the last resort was if you got caught out in a big blow is to simply " drive her in to the alders" till the prop augers a hole in, till the wings are fully
into the alders. This barbaric method has saved many a Cub because the wind ( even 80kt winds) are so defused coming thru the tops of the alders it has no where near the same lifting component as if the wing was subjected to the undisturbed air. I had a Cub tied in a' 4 way tiedown' Marlin Grasser had, in Amber Bay at spring bear camp, in a 70kt blow.
A young petrified pilot got caught on the east side, he landed when he saw our weatherport, in close to 40kt winds and nearly rolled it up in a ball, we walked him over by the tents and it was obvious he was going to loose the plane, I was telling him to" drive it in" but he really didnt get it???? But after the prop started cutting the way and us pushing we got it into the brush and was able to tie into some of the largest alders and he rode it out same as I did,with Kennon mesh covers, and tied 4 ways with tires down in their holes, but out in the open........... None of this stuff is for the meek of heart. But all of it might save you if you get caught some day.
E

Ps. You will need to saw off alot of the Alders you bend over driving in. As if you try pulling it out some may bind and poke holes in your bottom fabric.
Doesnt seam to bother a prop as much as you might think. Sounds crazy but it could save your butt.

Sent from my LM-X210 using SuperCub.Org mobile app

Wonder how that fits in with the crank bolt AD? Guess it’s better than loosing the airplane!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yes, removing all the AOA makes a huge difference. Has anyone tried a piece of tubing that could be guyed 3ways to jack up the tail? A disc to keep it going too deep and some kind of fitting on top to clamp the tailspring.
 
I’ve used tail Stands on 2-33 gliders parked outside lots of times. Decrease AOA and lots less lift. Also do 4 point tie down, pretty easy when you have the release hook on the nose!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Different kinds of tiedowns work in different kinds of soils. For looser stuff, like sand beaches and open sandy or pumicey areas I like to use a simple buried deadhead. I engineered it myself. But I did not patent it, so you are free to make your own!

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Here's an article that I wrote for the EAA magazine a few years ago, which is a refreshed look at HG Frautchy's article that is linked of the AirVenture "tie down" page. I have used these for years. I made two sets, so I can always "double down" if the wind is going to be particularly strong.
 

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