that little spring clamp that holds the pushrod seal in place can be pretty pesky to squeeze the 2 ends together to slide on or off the seal. i use a pliers now that i ground some grooves in but still not 100 percent, not even 70. anyone use something where you tell yourself this works?
Small Continental Pushrod Spring Clamp Pliers
- Thread starter tempdoug
- Start date
mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
been years(decades?) since i used these last, but I bought 2 sizes of these 30+ years ago...
https://www.gibsonaviationok.com/tools
is that what you mean???
https://www.gibsonaviationok.com/tools
is that what you mean???
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-Radi...887627?hash=item2880d13b0b:g:fyUAAOSwazpdJXF6 a tool for squeezing these so when there squeezed they dont go flying off, the continental 1 1/2 inch clamps are pretty stoudt. learned the clamps are called Corbin clamps.
Last edited:
CubCruiser
SPONSOR
Ormond Beach, Florida
I'm assuming you mean the original pushrod rubbers on the small Continentals
I bought these Craftsman pliers new years ago and they work. I think they are now obsolete. The weak part is my grip and not the pliers. Sometimes I need to spray a little WD40 on the rubber to get the clamp to seat correctly. I also inherited an old worn pair. They are unusable when they get worn even a little and should be thrown away. I keep them just for the guy who is too cheap to buy his own tools and sells off good tools whenever he gets them in a trade so he always needs to borrow something.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-...130184?hash=item3d88ccd488:g:6m0AAOSw0w1ct9Os
K-D makes a pair like these. I have thought they might work well but never got around to buying a pair. I thought the groove was cut on both of the rotating jaws.
https://www.ebay.com/i/273745935893...MIo4aL46DG4wIVCdbACh0rBgIqEAQYASABEgJwyfD_BwE
I bought these Craftsman pliers new years ago and they work. I think they are now obsolete. The weak part is my grip and not the pliers. Sometimes I need to spray a little WD40 on the rubber to get the clamp to seat correctly. I also inherited an old worn pair. They are unusable when they get worn even a little and should be thrown away. I keep them just for the guy who is too cheap to buy his own tools and sells off good tools whenever he gets them in a trade so he always needs to borrow something.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-...130184?hash=item3d88ccd488:g:6m0AAOSw0w1ct9Os
K-D makes a pair like these. I have thought they might work well but never got around to buying a pair. I thought the groove was cut on both of the rotating jaws.
https://www.ebay.com/i/273745935893...MIo4aL46DG4wIVCdbACh0rBgIqEAQYASABEgJwyfD_BwE
mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
I have a pair of those KD ones in my tool box. Must be what I had them for. Haven’t used them in many decades....
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mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
Attachments
the problem with all the commercial ones, is they make the prongs come together on top of each other instead of side by side, so you always have to beware. if the prongs came together side by side it would also make the clamp open a little bigger. this is no big deal.always get it done. just thought someone had a improved or modified idea. going to make one so the prongs can be squeezed side by side. mike ive tried what you have, there about 75 percent efficient. got to add, for the continental application.
flyrite
Registered User
Lyons,GA
Doug, Below is the compresor tool for the new style pushrod tubes. Having had both , I can tell you I like the new style much better. Can pull the tubes without removing the cyl.
With nearly 300 hours on the overhaul they have been Maintenance free. also provides for one of the dryest engines I’ve ever had. My experence with the old style was it leaked oil from one or more constantly.
With nearly 300 hours on the overhaul they have been Maintenance free. also provides for one of the dryest engines I’ve ever had. My experence with the old style was it leaked oil from one or more constantly.
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mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
valve spring compressor for small engines...
bob turner
Registered User
Those are a better idea. My only experience was straightening out an installation done by another mechanic. The Tennessee STC holder was very helpful. As I recall, a collar was installed backwards.
The guy doing the original work - insisted that the lifters had to be collapsed and clearances measured because that has to be done each time a cylinder is removed. Not sure whether he did the AD. Same guy took the brand new greased Grove wheels off and re-greased them. I was horrified. He said wheels have to be greased at annual.
Better to put the collars in the right way. Opinion.
Mine is a J3. My only concession to originality is red ignition wires to match my stripe. I use two tiny worm-seal clamps on each pushrod rubber, and have no leaks. I do have the expander tool for the cylinder end, but rarely have to use it.
The guy doing the original work - insisted that the lifters had to be collapsed and clearances measured because that has to be done each time a cylinder is removed. Not sure whether he did the AD. Same guy took the brand new greased Grove wheels off and re-greased them. I was horrified. He said wheels have to be greased at annual.
Better to put the collars in the right way. Opinion.
Mine is a J3. My only concession to originality is red ignition wires to match my stripe. I use two tiny worm-seal clamps on each pushrod rubber, and have no leaks. I do have the expander tool for the cylinder end, but rarely have to use it.
