• If You Are Having Trouble Logging In with Your Old Username and Password, Please use this Forgot Your Password link to get re-established.
  • Hey! Be sure to login or register!

Suggestions on hangar size

Dan, Im curious, how much do you figure you saved on your concrete work by doing it yourself?

Kurt

Actually I just looked at the quotes I had received and they were for a 4 inch slab with 8 inch thickened edge...I made mine 6 inch slab with 12 inch around perimeter....that $3,600 more in just concrete...estimates from the more reputable were about $16,000 fo the 4”....I’ll have about $11,500 in mine.....so if the contractor did it like I did I would suppose it would be closer to $20k. Add a whole bunch if you put tubes in because you have to insulate the whole thing then too. I’m just fine with a propane Modine type unit. Each to his own though. I will tell you this....the dirt work and concrete forming work was a hell of a lot of work! And I used vacation days to do it. I probably would rethink some of this, but the concrete guys were booked all summer by April so if I wanted to get going, I had to get going. lol
 
Dissenting opinion: OK I can’t really argue with the bigger is better, or the theorem that you will always have 10% more stuff than shed. However here is another thought. Cold/hot aircraft storage here in East Texas is affordable $100-$150 for a tee-hangar. Now that is not on my field so there is some inconvenience involved. What is a premium is heated or more important and even more rare cooled hangar space. I have a single plane hangar that I was all set to knock down and rebuild X3 but then got to thinking about heating and cooling it so instead I rebuilt it as is, put in a powerlift door and a wall AC unit along with an old furnace blower and electric heat elements. So while I can only get one airplane in it at a time I can work in comfort.
 
I think a good plan is to decide what you need for open floor space. My hangar has warehouse racking on two
walks and a lounge and file cabinets, coat rack, etc on another wall. All the storage is great but it consumes floor space. Decide what you require for floor space and add for racks and work benches.
 
Ok, I've decided on a 60x60 with a 52x14 door. Next decision construction type: stick frame, steel prefab or foam panel. It will be insulated one way or the other. Opinions?
Try MQS buildings.. www.mqsbarn.com
We just had them do a barn for us (40x80) and a few others up here have had them do hangars. Very quality work, and they beat everyone's prices by a good margin!! We've all been amazed at the squareness and detail of the building.
John
 
Ok, I've decided on a 60x60 with a 52x14 door. Next decision construction type: stick frame, steel prefab or foam panel. It will be insulated one way or the other. Opinions?

Wood frame! Warmer. Quieter! The difference between metal and wood framed buildings is hard to miss.
 
Last edited:
Dissenting opinion: OK I can’t really argue with the bigger is better, or the theorem that you will always have 10% more stuff than shed. However here is another thought. Cold/hot aircraft storage here in East Texas is affordable $100-$150 for a tee-hangar. Now that is not on my field so there is some inconvenience involved. What is a premium is heated or more important and even more rare cooled hangar space. I have a single plane hangar that I was all set to knock down and rebuild X3 but then got to thinking about heating and cooling it so instead I rebuilt it as is, put in a powerlift door and a wall AC unit along with an old furnace blower and electric heat elements. So while I can only get one airplane in it at a time I can work in comfort.
My work hanger is 65'x80' with office, paint booth and shop taking up 20;x80'. Have been seriously thinking of building a heated and air conditioned hanger just big enough for a Cub to do maintenance in. The older I get the more I dislike the summer heat.
 
My work hanger is 65'x80' with office, paint booth and shop taking up 20;x80'. Have been seriously thinking of building a heated and air conditioned hanger just big enough for a Cub to do maintenance in. The older I get the more I dislike the summer heat.


But but its a dry heat!
 
Same at my TX shop. Big fans help until you figure out you're standing in a convection oven. We put in overhead doors at both ends. Changing the air rather than moving the air seems to help.
 
Last edited:
I’ll be able to wedge 3 Cubs in my 50’x50’ hangar if need be....if nothing much else is in there��*♂️
C76A5F6F-1C32-46D9-BE08-7C846ADFFD38.jpg
 

Attachments

  • C76A5F6F-1C32-46D9-BE08-7C846ADFFD38.jpg
    C76A5F6F-1C32-46D9-BE08-7C846ADFFD38.jpg
    41.7 KB · Views: 257
I’ll be able to wedge 3 Cubs in my 50’x50’ hangar if need be....if nothing much else is in there��*♂️
View attachment 43450

I don't know Dan, looks like in the drawing the door goes from edge to edge of the side walls. Thats not good for strength. You want at least a couple feet of wall on each end of the door side. With the door 44 feet or so it may be a bit more challenging to slide the airplanes in. The GoJack wheel dolly's are a must from Northern Tool.

Kurt
 
If you look closer you will see 4’ of wall on each side....door is 42’ that’s what the truss was designed for...42’ door
 
Dan I sent you a PM the other day.


Sent from my iPad using SuperCub.Org
 
I started building my new hangar....I took a week off to form and pour concrete....something I’m inexperienced at, but thought I’d give it a go. I’m building a 50’x50’ stick built building on an engineered slab....estimates for the concrete were $15k to $18k so I decided to pour it myself and hire an experienced finisher that I know to trowel it after....I poured half today...I’ll pour the other half in a few days.

View attachment 43403View attachment 43404
I bought an Ultimate Door Kit for the door and it will be stick built 24” center with walls and roof fully sheeted then metal over that. I used Gator Bar fiber rebar ....about a quarter the weight of steel bar and is supposed be stronger.

Where is it located Dan? Congrats on the new hangar.

Jeff


Sent from my iPad using SuperCub.Org mobile app
 
after thought

Ok, I've decided on a 60x60 with a 52x14 door. Next decision construction type: stick frame, steel prefab or foam panel. It will be insulated one way or the other. Opinions?

Mine is 60 wide X 50 deep wood frame 16" ceiling. 3 planes fit nicely but hard to get around.
In hind sight, just 2 feet wider I could easily jockey the planes around without sweating the wings touching. My planes are 33.5 wide and it always seems like I need the one in the back out. I even thought about notching the wall or selling and build again. I'd go 62 or 64 wide next time.

I chose wood frame for many reasons. DIY labor, less concrete needed to support weight, easy to insulate.

I chose Schneider 42' X 14' Bi-fold. $9000 delivered to Alaska. I wish it was a little wide though. Easy to hang and easy to seal. Great people to deal with.
 
I have the roof on and the door almost ready to be sheeted...I better hurry...I can feel fall in the air.
A1CCDF83-3DB4-4372-927E-8D1594625EB2.jpg
The Ultimate door is nice, it’s a lot of work to build it and rig it so it works good....I have about $2900 into it and about 3 days of labor. I’ll have another 2 full days into it before it’s complete. Next is tyvek wrap, man door, siding...then I better get the apron poured. Whew, lotsa work for one guy to build a hangar alone for the most part.
 

Attachments

  • A1CCDF83-3DB4-4372-927E-8D1594625EB2.jpg
    A1CCDF83-3DB4-4372-927E-8D1594625EB2.jpg
    63 KB · Views: 473
I have the roof on and the door almost ready to be sheeted...I better hurry...I can feel fall in the air.
View attachment 44362
The Ultimate door is nice, it’s a lot of work to build it and rig it so it works good....I have about $2900 into it and about 3 days of labor. I’ll have another 2 full days into it before it’s complete. Next is tyvek wrap, man door, siding...then I better get the apron poured. Whew, lotsa work for one guy to build a hangar alone for the most part.

Did you put an electric motor on the door?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
AE7B6D3B-381D-4DFA-BDEE-C6029F32F1B5.jpg
This is a kit I bought from Wisconsin...The Ultimate door co.
 

Attachments

  • AE7B6D3B-381D-4DFA-BDEE-C6029F32F1B5.jpg
    AE7B6D3B-381D-4DFA-BDEE-C6029F32F1B5.jpg
    108.1 KB · Views: 280
Well, I paid all my bills for material which is on site and all I have left is to wrap the building, put the siding on and install my man door. I have all my electrical supplies and will wire it soon...power company is installing new pad mount transformer and meter base in two weeks....grand total $38,200. Lots of of my time though. I spent most of my summer spare time doing something hangar related. How’d I do price wise?
FBCC83F4-BA19-48D0-A2D7-FB5AFFC89DF4.jpg
38B0D862-B485-40A4-AF84-74A2D2470D3E.jpg
A7A10FF6-200F-4513-95E5-93B8E53AD291.jpg
 

Attachments

  • FBCC83F4-BA19-48D0-A2D7-FB5AFFC89DF4.jpg
    FBCC83F4-BA19-48D0-A2D7-FB5AFFC89DF4.jpg
    118.6 KB · Views: 267
  • 38B0D862-B485-40A4-AF84-74A2D2470D3E.jpg
    38B0D862-B485-40A4-AF84-74A2D2470D3E.jpg
    78.9 KB · Views: 351
  • A7A10FF6-200F-4513-95E5-93B8E53AD291.jpg
    A7A10FF6-200F-4513-95E5-93B8E53AD291.jpg
    71.4 KB · Views: 256
Well, I paid all my bills for material which is on site and all I have left is to wrap the building, put the siding on and install my man door. I have all my electrical supplies and will wire it soon...power company is installing new pad mount transformer and meter base in two weeks....grand total $38,200. Lots of of my time though. I spent most of my summer spare time doing something hangar related. How’d I do price wise?
View attachment 44388
View attachment 44389
View attachment 44390
Well I’ve built 6 farm shops and two hangars and I’m damn impressed! That’s a well built hangar. I’m looking up that door on internet now, it’s really different than I’m used to.
 
I will put an electric motor on eventually. I put a cheap $30 boat winch for now until I get the power run to the building
 
Looks beautiful!

One suggestion - before you cover up your trusses see what it would take to beef one (or more) up for lifting. I requested the truss company to provide a 2000 lb lifting capacity from the bottom chord of one strategically located truss so that I could hang a chain fall and lift the plane (or other stuff).
 
Nice job!!!
Your hard work paid off.
You can fully plywood both sides of any one of those trusses & achieve a 2k live load lifting point. Your lifting point should come from the “top” of the truss (peak of roof), not just off the bottom chord. A 5/16” thick x 3” wide flat bar thru bolted vertically from peak to below bottom chord of truss with a 1” lifting hole will serve you well. Install an outlet near lifting point. Then keep your eyes open for a nice electric hoist.


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org
 
Last edited:
Back
Top