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Wheel Landing a 180

Slow it down (they skip like a rock if you try to drive them on fast), trim neutral all the way down final, approach sink rate about 500fpm with a bit of power in, gentle pull back on the yoke over the fence for a 3 count (to partially arrest the sink), yoke back where it was, touch down, and a prompt moderate push on the yoke will give you a tail low wheelie, now add a big smile while your feet do their thing, put the tail down easy and clean the airplane up
 
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I have been trying to landing it like a Cub. The springy gear is a bitch. I have 8.00 tires on now. Think it is time for the 29 ABWs that I have ready to go. Luckily I have 6300 ft of grass to play on.
 
SJ,
If you are going the be at Gaston's I would like to buy an hour or two of your famous instruction.
 
I find that it helps to have a little nose down trim so that you are holding back pressure on the yoke, slow it down and bring it in tail low (tailwheel just a few inches above the ground when the mains touch), with full flaps. When the mains make contact you release the back pressure and and roll up onto the mains. The key of course is to make contact with the ground with as little energy as possible.
 
I liked to secure my left arm from moving too much, either against my chest or nearby support. Same for throttle hand by grabbing the friction lock ring with finger tips and squeeze-unsqueeze to adjust the throttle. Any bounce can move the hands upsetting elevator and throttle adjustments. Forward CG makes it harder to control the tail. Add some temporary ballast aft. The rest is grease it on practice.

Edit: I liked flaps 20 to keep dirty air off the tail.

Gary
 
Bill White technique works best. I've used it for years, easy peezy, loaded or light.

[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif]https://bwifly.com/aircraft-insurance/wheel-landing-by-the-numbers/[/FONT]
 
Slow it down (they skip like a rock if you try to drive them on fast), trim neutral all the way down final, approach sink rate about 500fpm with a bit of power in, gentle pull back on the yoke over the fence for a 3 count (to partially arrest the sink), yoke back where it was, touch down, and a prompt moderate push on the yoke will give you a tail low wheelie, now add a big smile while your feet do their thing, put the tail down easy and clean the airplane up
That's it. Carrying that bit of power flattens things out and gives you a little more of a fightin' chance to grease it. The second you touch, stick it with a little forward yoke. If you come in cold turkey power off its a much greater challenge in energy management, a one-shot deal. If you blow the flare and bounce, DON'T try to stick it. Yoke it back and milk the wing dry (of lift). It might plop back down with another bounce, but it'll be done flying.
The ol' Cub hides a lot of sins and lets us get away with somewhat sloppy techniques, and will allow us to get a lot farther out of shape before it tries to bite. The Skywagon makes you get your sh** together.
 
Long approaches, short approaches, steep over obstacles in a raging crosswind..... always 40* flaps. Always the same speed. If you're bouncing landings you probably need to do more slow flight to learn to trust the airplane. Learn how to bring it in steep with power off and shallow with power on. And everything in between. The gear isn't responsible for bouncing.
 
Teaching them and doing them properly in the field might be separable, at least at first. When I teach wheel landings we start fast, with power, and go for slower and without power as the student gets better. It takes me an hour to get an experienced Cub pilot to be competent in 180 wheel landings. Not really good, but competent.

I am one of a very few 180 pilots who believes that 3-point takeoffs and landings are more efficient. Most 180 pilots pull two notches of flaps, raise thetail and accelerate to 60, then rotate and climb at 90 until a thousand feet. Makes my performance engineer brain dizzy.
 
Check the sink and roll it on like a B-727. Perfect the three point landings on 8:00-6s before you try the wheelies and move to big tires. You have a lot of learning to do before you go into the rough stuff where the big tires would be helpful. The 8:00s are adequate for most any "airport" turf runway.
 
Bill White technique works best. I've used it for years, easy peezy, loaded or light.
https://bwifly.com/aircraft-insurance/wheel-landing-by-the-numbers/

Bill White's article is not necessarily gospel but it is a helluva good place to start.
Practice it as described, then (if required) modify the technique to suit you.
Here's the crux of it:

Bill White on wheel landings.jpg
 

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Lots of good advice here. One thing I do initially is start them landing with 30 flaps as opposed to 40. That reduces the drag just enough that pitch doesn’t increase the drag as quickly. So work 3 points first with flaps 30. Once that’s done, start tail low wheel landings. I too suggest initially rolling in a bit of nose down trim. Now as you flare, the airplane settles, and at the touch, instead of having to initially push on the home to stick it, you just release that back pressure, and THEN push the yoke forward. That helps to catch the bounce a bit and speeds your response time about a half nano second.

Once you get a handle on things, you can stop with the nose down trim, and start playing with 40 flaps, and 20 flaps. Also, at some point, practice no flap landings, not because you’ll need them, but as a skill building excercise.

mostly have fun. Grass is good to start, but get onto pavement when you start getting the hang of it.

Its a great idea to get dual with an experienced instructor.

And finally, be prepared to be humbled a bit. FantAstic planes, but a lapse on your part can get your attention,

MTV
 
SJ,
If you are going the be at Gaston's I would like to buy an hour or two of your famous instruction.

Your mileage may vary... :smile:

Lots of good advice here, there is more than one way to skin this cat. Most of the time the springy problems come from trying to force a wheel landing, you still have to flare and arrest the descent rate. You don't need power to do that, but it takes work on your timing. Also, put one (front) wheel down first and it will take the spring out of the gear.

We do plan to be at Gaston's!

sj
 
Get it slowed up! When you think it might be a 3 point and you're within 2 ft of the ground. Just push yoke ahead to level attitude. That's all folks...
 
So the real question is why? I’ve never had the desire or need to do wheel landings beyond meeting the FAA requirements when training a new tailwheel pilot.


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Did eight wheel landings today with a 10 kt right cross. No bad ones and three greasers. It's coming. 10 hrs in the plane so far.

Slightly heavy yoke and relax back pressure when it touches.

Brakes are light years better than the Cub. New ABI units and overhauled masters.
 
I think it is a Chevy/Ford thing. I plan to be proficient at both.

So the real question is why? I’ve never had the desire or need to do wheel landings beyond meeting the FAA requirements when training a new tailwheel pilot.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I think being proficient at all flap settings and landing/takeoff modes is important. That said, I stress tail low takeoffs and full stall landings.

It takes finesse to get a good wheel landing in a spring steel gear airplane. Finesse is a good thing.

But when I discover that my Cub or Stearman students are doing 90% wheel landings, I insist that they return to 90% full stall. Well, maybe 80%.

I briefly encountered a Husky pilot who was taught 60 mph approaches and wheel landings. He enlisted my aid to figure out why a Husky needed 2000' to land! Easy fix.
 
Not a Chevy/Ford thing at all.

Wheel landings are an absolute necessary skill

Dga, I am surprised at you statement.


Three point full stall landing a Skywagon with a 15 knot crosswind on pavement with 29" tires and you will be lost!!
 
Not a Chevy/Ford thing at all.

Wheel landings are an absolute necessary skill

Dga, I am surprised at you statement.


Three point full stall landing a Skywagon with a 15 knot crosswind on pavement with 29" tires and you will be lost!!

Haven’t flown with 29” tires, 8.50x6 on 180s and 185s. 8.50x10s on the Howard. Something approaching 8-9000 glider tows with Super Cubs and Pawnees, 600 hours in the Howard in everything up to 28 kt crosswind at 90 degrees. Perhaps about 2000 hours towing signs in L-19s. Never had the need or desire to do wheel landings.

To each their own.


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I bet soft 29" tires will have you in the weeds with a 15 kt crosswind no matter what kind of landing you make.
Nah, in my experience at least, I much prefer big tires in crosswinds. Put upwind tire down, stick it and now use it as the fulcrum to do what you want with the plane.

MTV
 
I agree on the tail low takeoff. Picking the tail up is much harder verses the Cub. I have been letting it fly off when it is ready. The plane is light and leaps off with the 88 prop.

I am starting to develop a flow and feeling more comfortable. It is a great airplane but does not forgive mediocre pilot skills. It demands that you fly it with your best game.

I think being proficient at all flap settings and landing/takeoff modes is important. That said, I stress tail low takeoffs and full stall landings.

It takes finesse to get a good wheel landing in a spring steel gear airplane. Finesse is a good thing.

But when I discover that my Cub or Stearman students are doing 90% wheel landings, I insist that they return to 90% full stall. Well, maybe 80%.

I briefly encountered a Husky pilot who was taught 60 mph approaches and wheel landings. He enlisted my aid to figure out why a Husky needed 2000' to land! Easy fix.
 
You guys are ignoring basic physics. First recognize how easy it is to move a 180 on level pavement with 8:00s at 35 psi. Then try the same trick with any big tire at 8 psi. If you don't notice a vast difference you are delusional, and the rest of my argument will make no sense.

A crosswind does not affect you until the first wheel touches down. At that point, the wind wants to turn the aircraft - assuming you touched down going straight. Also the tire you touch down on wants to turn you in the same direction. Both of these forces are overcome by top rudder. A large soft tire will simply want to turn you with much more force. That limits your crosswind capability - at least until you get the other main on the ground and apply brakes on that side.

The 180 with hard 8:00s can handle 25 kts direct crosswind. That is practically full control authority. Add drag in the wrong direction and your crosswind capability decreases.

For once, not opinion.
 
My use of big tires is to reduce rolling resistance on soft and uneven terrain. You seem to believe everyone flies from and to pavement. You're mistaken.
 
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