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Thread: Final touch descions on my new FUSE from Airframes Alaska

  1. #1

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    Final touch descions on my new FUSE from Airframes Alaska

    I am trying to keep my cub under 1100 lbs on 31s with Univar ribs and the Keller flaps in now. I also don't have a starter. These are small items that don't weigh much but every mod adds weight and cost. So these items I have in question: Headset hooks, Cargo loops, Floor tie dns, Extended forward baggage angle, Mounting angle bracket, X brace arch above the lift handles, Extra brake booster tabs. Any opinions? I need to decide like soon.
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  2. #2

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    Form should follow function. We all would like a lite cub but it usually comes at a price of function. Are you going to be hauling two people and a lot of gear stacked to the roof? That is when you will want the cargo hooks/floor tie downs and a net (actually any time you haul anything it should be strapped down). Big baggage door is great if you are loading/unloading a lot. I know guys that don't have a baggage door, they just crawl into the back it reach stuff in the extended baggage or tie a rope to it. Crash had a trap door in the upper baggage to push stuff forward. Just depends on how much hassle you want to deal with. Lots of stuff is hard to add latter so now is the time to do it right. Put you tabs on now and add nut plates to them and you can make changes latter if needed. Are you going to get a belly pod? You may want tabs. Aluminum or wood stringers for the top deck. I don't think the X brace arch does much. Are you going to go with Attlee dodge extended baggage or build your own? Do you plan to ever sleep in the plane? I strap my helmet to the V brace and set passenger's on back of my seat. I run my brakes lines out the side of the fuselage. Full access to all the fittings, a lot easier to work on/inspect. Most of the stuff I would recommend will add weight but make it a lot more easier if you fly heavy.
    DENNY
    Last edited by DENNY; 04-24-2019 at 01:41 AM.

  3. #3

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    No on headset hooks. hang headset on throttle or on seat or whatever.
    I had six floor tie downs on the floor. Never used them. Removed at rebuild. Don’t miss them and I haul a lot of Stuff.
    I have huge extended baggage and love it. But belly pod probably makes big extended baggage obsolete.
    I have never had a shelf between upper and lower baggage. I think shelf adds unneeded weight. There is enough tubing in there to keep stuff up top as needed. Plus excellent access to lower extended baggage.
    Last edited by jrb; 04-24-2019 at 01:09 AM.
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  4. #4
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    I may be wrong but I think the reason for the X brace arch above the lift handles was......damage from ski flying when there was only one lift handle. I believe the SC had only one lift handle from the factory. So what happened was, if you needed to turn the plane away from the lift handle side, is you lifted then put your shoulder against the side of the fuselage and "pushed". This caused the stringer to crush inward. With the advent of the second lift handle on the other side we can now lift and "pull" so you are less likely to use your shoulder to push against the fuselage. So I guess if you have two lift handles you probably don't need the arch support. If you go with just one lift handle, get the arch support. Probably don't need both.

    No headset hooks



    JMHO and all that

    Bill
    Very Blessed.
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  5. #5

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    https://www.niteize.com/collection/Gear-Tie.asp

    Best headset holders made. Fasten to the x brace above your head

  6. #6
    behindpropellers's Avatar
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    I have a friend who would likely be able to walk normal if the tube from the lower engine mount up to the door was installed. Once we put the pod on our cub we never needee the extended baggage & I like keeping the weight under the CG.

    Tim
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  7. #7

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    I do fly floats too, and have no starter, and when I cut that throttle I am making a mad dash to get rid of the headset and out that door onto the floats. There really is nowhere to put your headset, right now, so I thought the hooks might be the "spot". Same with a helmet. Where do you put it when you gotta move, now! If I don't like them I can take a hack saw and cut them off I guess.
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  8. #8
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Kid View Post
    I do fly floats too, and have no starter, and when I cut that throttle I am making a mad dash to get rid of the headset and out that door onto the floats. There really is nowhere to put your headset, right now, so I thought the hooks might be the "spot". Same with a helmet. Where do you put it when you gotta move, now! If I don't like them I can take a hack saw and cut them off I guess.
    the head set hooks weigh next to nothing... add them

    that tail arch thing doesn't need to be an X, just from one side diagonal is fine and all i add on every rebuild

    cargo tie downs are a MUST, I had to get planes off sides of mountains minus landing gear because cargo load (moose) slid BACKWARDS after takeoff to end of extended baggage after takeoff from top of mountain ridge....

    none of that stuff seems to weigh enough to be worth worrying about... go pee and poo before you go fly, to save that weight...

  9. #9
    aktango58's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Rusk View Post
    I may be wrong but I think the reason for the X brace arch above the lift handles was......damage from ski flying when there was only one lift handle. I believe the SC had only one lift handle from the factory. So what happened was, if you needed to turn the plane away from the lift handle side, is you lifted then put your shoulder against the side of the fuselage and "pushed". This caused the stringer to crush inward. With the advent of the second lift handle on the other side we can now lift and "pull" so you are less likely to use your shoulder to push against the fuselage. So I guess if you have two lift handles you probably don't need the arch support. If you go with just one lift handle, get the arch support. Probably don't need both.

    No headset hooks



    JMHO and all that

    Bill
    The rear x brace is to keep the tail from twisting when you side load the tailwheel. PUT IT IN!

    I hang my helmet on the chin strap to the V brace. I take off headset/helmet long before I get to the dock. Also take seat belt off and open the door- slows the dashing need.

    Carbon Concepts Carbon Fiber baggage, floor and anything else you can. That will give you enough savings to put all the extra safety tubes in to keep you alive when she balls up in the trees.

    Best to have and not need it.

    Bearhawk Bob is in the hospital right now- frame prevented it being a funeral.
    I don't know where you've been me lad, but I see you won first Prize!
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  10. #10
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aktango58 View Post
    The rear x brace is to keep the tail from twisting when you side load the tailwheel. PUT IT IN!

    I hang my helmet on the chin strap to the V brace. I take off headset/helmet long before I get to the dock. Also take seat belt off and open the door- slows the dashing need.

    Carbon Concepts Carbon Fiber baggage, floor and anything else you can. That will give you enough savings to put all the extra safety tubes in to keep you alive when she balls up in the trees.

    Best to have and not need it.

    Bearhawk Bob is in the hospital right now- frame prevented it being a funeral.
    ah, yes... i was thinking the one i add to the upper gingerbread above the upper longerons.... for shoulder leaning...

    but ABSOLUTELY do the brace in the tail from lower longerons to diagonals... but i do a box like atlee's... no brainer

  11. #11
    TurboBeaver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aktango58 View Post
    The rear x brace is to keep the tail from twisting when you side load the tailwheel. PUT IT IN!

    I hang my helmet on the chin strap to the V brace. I take off headset/helmet long before I get to the dock. Also take seat belt off and open the door- slows the dashing need.

    Carbon Concepts Carbon Fiber baggage, floor and anything else you can. That will give you enough savings to put all the extra safety tubes in to keep you alive when she balls up in the trees.

    Best to have and not need it.

    Bearhawk Bob is in the hospital right now- frame prevented it being a funeral.
    AKT58,
    Can you share any details on what happened with Bob? First I heard of it.
    E

    Sent from my LM-X210 using SuperCub.Org mobile app

  12. #12
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Lest there be more confusion, there is a difference between the tail X brace and the turtleneck/gingerbread brace. He did not ask about the tail X brace, that is a given. The tail X brace is included on just about all new fuselages unless you specifically opt out. I agree that that brace is certainly worth the weight. The brace for the stringers is less critical and perhaps more difficult to choose.

    Bill
    Very Blessed.
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  13. #13

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    I don't understand the diff. between floor tie dns, and wouldn't the seat belt fittings in the baggage compartment suffice, and the cargo loops. And why should I go to the weight expense of an extended baggage and canvanaugh door at 10 lbs or so when a pod will carry way more and be under the center of gravity at 15 lbs or so when I need it?

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Kid View Post
    I don't understand the diff. between floor tie dns, and wouldn't the seat belt fittings in the baggage compartment suffice, and the cargo loops. And why should I go to the weight expense of an extended baggage and canvanaugh door at 10 lbs or so when a pod will carry way more and be under the center of gravity at 15 lbs or so when I need it?
    Well that depends on just how much (volume) you want to be able to haul. I occasionally fill all available spaces and typically use the pod for heavy or stuff I just don't want inside. One of the only two regrets of my rebuild was not adding welded tabs for the Pod mounting which would have made it a bit easier to put on and off.
    Last edited by OLDCROWE; 04-25-2019 at 09:25 AM.
    Remember, These are the Good old Days!
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  15. #15

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    A buddy built an EXP Cub and put a big, long extended baggage in "just to haul light stuff". He later added a cargo pod and didn't use the big, long extended baggage.
    If you need it, add it. But, if you don't add it you never have to fix it.
    Feel free to quote me. (insert smiley face here)

  16. #16

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    Soooo back to what I posted earlier, what is the mission for the plane? If you are willing to put up with the hassle of trying to get stuff out of the back without a baggage door it will save weight. I have seen a lot of posts with people wanting to put one on a covered plane, never seen a post on how to take one out!! Just saying. If you have the 3rd seat mod you can use the tabs to clip in carabiners, same with the back seat depending on seatbelt. I have swaged cable loops (very light) in my overhead for top attachments. Depending on how the rear seat cover sets you can also clip into the crossbar in the front. I usually run out of cubic space before weight really becomes an issue with my cub, that is with extended baggage and a belly pod, winter flying is worse. For light extended baggage Carbon Concepts makes a very slick slide in one, check the pictures on the web page.

    Everyone wants a lite cub!! But, once you add full fuel, gear and pilot they are no longer light. Once you hit 1700-1800 lbs do you really notice 20 lbs one way or the other? If you want performance at any weight add a big wing.
    DENNY
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  17. #17
    TurboBeaver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DENNY View Post
    Soooo back to what I posted earlier, what is the mission for the plane? If you are willing to put up with the hassle of trying to get stuff out of the back without a baggage door it will save weight. I have seen a lot of posts with people wanting to put one on a covered plane, never seen a post on how to take one out!! Just saying. If you have the 3rd seat mod you can use the tabs to clip in carabiners, same with the back seat depending on seatbelt. I have swaged cable loops (very light) in my overhead for top attachments. Depending on how the rear seat cover sets you can also clip into the crossbar in the front. I usually run out of cubic space before weight really becomes an issue with my cub, that is with extended baggage and a belly pod, winter flying is worse. For light extended baggage Carbon Concepts makes a very slick slide in one, check the pictures on the web page.

    Everyone wants a lite cub!! But, once you add full fuel, gear and pilot they are no longer light. Once you hit 1700-1800 lbs do you really notice 20 lbs one way or the other? If you want performance at any weight add a big wing.
    DENNY
    I would certainly add the tabs to the bottom longerons to have a metal bottom as far as lift handles. (To access yoke n jackscrew)I would definately add tabs to fit the Atlee D lumber rack for both utility and resale.
    Extended baggages with external access doors,are mandatory! Double lift handles. Mounting plate ontop of rudder to accept Led flasher, strobe.
    H brace or X to box rear in. Elevated tabs with nutplates for master clyinders are a godsent ! Weld on float fittings. This does weigh jack but really makes a Cub ALOT nicer in all
    ways. Good luck with the project.
    E

    Sent from my LM-X210 using SuperCub.Org mobile app

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