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35s

The Kid

FOUNDER
Thompson Falls
Is there any disadvantage to 35s over 31s, except for cost and weight? What are the advantages? I have 31s but have never even flown 35s and with my new Airframes fuse, they'll send me new 31s, or for a few more bucks, 35s.
 
Don't fly them or you won't want to go back to 31s. 31s have a stiffer sidewall so the tire doesn't contact the brake caliper. Not a problem on 35s because the 10" wheel with 6" brakes. All depends on your budget and mission.
 
They use different wheels. 6 inch for 31s. 10 inch for 35s for the reason Steve mentioned.

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The few more bucks will multiply with the cost of the wheels. Definitely heavier. Like 32-33# heavier for the pair. They increase AOA in 3 point and roll over soft and irregular terrain better. I don't notice anymore sidewall flex. You'll need some of Spinner's steps to get on top of them. :)
 
I went back to 31's from years of 35's just because I was crawling up rather than stepping up to put gas in. Now that I am a few more years down the road, might be time for 29's :roll:

I did NOT see a huge increase in airspeed from the switch.

sj
 
Depends on the mission, some things to think about. Taller tire so harder to get in the plane for old/heavy passengers or pilot. More weight. Need bigger rim. More rolling resistance on the ground. Mass and slower spin up, some say that may help get you on your nose if not ready for it. Appears almost impossible to get the grin off your face. I think I have only seen one pilot go back to 31s, that was because he's son took the 35s for his cub. If you are going to spend any time on tar I would get the extra tread option for a round 200 bucks a tire with either size. No right or wrong just stuff to think about.
DENNY
 
I wanted to keep a set of 6" wheels with 8.50's mounted for skis, and the cost of 10" wheels and 35's wasn't much more than 31's and another set of wheels. Got a set of blemished 35's at a pretty good discount. Oh and the shipping is amazing from airframes, the tires were here in less than 24 hrs. for free! Can't beat that.


Tom
 
30#s more per set, over my 31s, would be unacceptable to me. But don't they make a lighter set of wheels called Beringer that makes the whole set up a lot lighter but those wheels are big bucks too I think.
 
The tire difference alone is 12 lbs pre tire. So I don't think the Beringer rim/brake will make it a "lot lighter". You can call bushwheels they should have the weight of the Beringer rim/brake vs bush will assembly. Stewartb may have the numbers.
DENNY
 
Does Beringer make 10x6.5 wheels?

I never weighed my 31s but they're supposed to be 1 1/2 to 2# heavier than 29s. Mounted 29s incl rotors are 40# each. Mounted 35s are 58.4# each.
 
You will get less climb performance, and less speed.

Longer step to get into the plane.

Need bigger wheels, and the package weighs more...

Now, on the other side:
AMAZING what you can roll over and not even notice. What used to be a mandatory gear attach inspection hole now does not spill coffee.

I have both 35's and 31's on rims. I have not bothered to switch back to the 31's because of how nice the 35's roll over crap. I am based on dirt, but go to pavement about 1/5 of the time
 
I wanted to keep a set of 6" wheels with 8.50's mounted for skis, and the cost of 10" wheels and 35's wasn't much more than 31's and another set of wheels. Got a set of blemished 35's at a pretty good discount. Oh and the shipping is amazing from airframes, the tires were here in less than 24 hrs. for free! Can't beat that.


Tom
That’s because they use FedEx.
Lou
 
The tire difference alone is 12 lbs pre tire. So I don't think the Beringer rim/brake will make it a "lot lighter". You can call bushwheels they should have the weight of the Beringer rim/brake vs bush will assembly. Stewartb may have the numbers.
DENNY

8 lbs is what I have in my notes but for some reason I don't have the wheels.
 
When I get my strip going it will be about a 10% grade, maybe 12% and not very long. Turning back down hill, to taxi back to the bottom where I might put a hanger, bothers me from the standpoint that the tail is "up", via the hill, and at a 10% grade if you hit the brakes, and you have to, the nose over tendency is high but I thought the 2" higher, via the 35s, would shift my CG rearward thusly making it more unlikely that I would nose over. But I am not an aeronautical engineer so I don't really know.
 
Does Beringer make 10x6.5 wheels?

I never weighed my 31s but they're supposed to be 1 1/2 to 2# heavier than 29s. Mounted 29s incl rotors are 40# each. Mounted 35s are 58.4# each.
Yep. Don’t have a very good overall pic, but here’s a couple...
 

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Downfall of the beringer 10" wheel, is if your swapping wheels for wheel skis or anything you can't just pull the 10" off and swap the 6". You'd have to swap calipers, un mount the torque plate and all that fun stuff.
The 6" beringer saves .5lbs total over grove carbon cub wheels
 
Does Beringer make 10x6.5 wheels?

I never weighed my 31s but they're supposed to be 1 1/2 to 2# heavier than 29s. Mounted 29s incl rotors are 40# each. Mounted 35s are 58.4# each.

Just helped a friend swap. This is what we got. New 31" w/extra rubber on Clevelands (6 bolt) w/ brake disc = 47.0 and 46.8
Goodyear 26 on Cleveland w/ brake disc = 30.15 and 32.3 (weighed a couple of times, pretty big split???)


These are both 6.00x6 wheels. The Aluminum weighs - 87.61oz The Magnesium unit weighs - 68.63oz. Over 1 pound per side. Thats pretty cool.
The rotor on the right is a Grove unit that undrilled weighs 45.05oz but I had drilled out and it came in at 41.0oz.
The unit on the left is the Grove drilled unit and it weighs in at 34.2oz. That is a solid 10oz lighter than his standard unit. And boy is the workmanship beautiful.

So....what does all this mean. By switching to the Grove Magnesium wheels and Grove drilled rotors, I was able to upgrade to double puck brakes and still saved 48.76oz or 3 pounds.
This is from a previous post on wheels, more data here....http://www.supercub.org/forum/showt...g-a-Javron-Cub&p=623484&viewfull=1#post623484


Hope this helps

Bill
 
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When I get my strip going it will be about a 10% grade, maybe 12% and not very long. Turning back down hill, to taxi back to the bottom where I might put a hanger, bothers me from the standpoint that the tail is "up", via the hill, and at a 10% grade if you hit the brakes, and you have to, the nose over tendency is high but I thought the 2" higher, via the 35s, would shift my CG rearward thusly making it more unlikely that I would nose over. But I am not an aeronautical engineer so I don't really know.

Seems counter productive but you can keep the tail down with prop blast.

Glenn
 
Seems counter productive but you can keep the tail down with prop blast.

Glenn

What I was thinking, stick back, 1,200 rpm and ride the brakes.

The other way, one I might seriously consider, is a positive attach tow bar. Park where you stop, walk to the tug and tow it down the hill. Please note that I said a positive attach- not a drop through the hole, but one the that locks on the tow rig and the plane.
 
In general when going downhill or trying to stop fast, using only one brake at a time will go a long way in preventing going on your nose. If the wings have the room drive it like a old War bird and slalom down the hill, just let it ground loop if it gets too fast. The big question is making it work with skis. I would avoid any use that combined tires, snow, and steep down grade.
DENNY
 
Doesn’t sound like your strip is/will be very long. When landing uphill your roll out is short. Given the strip width is adequate, why not let it back down hill if nosing over is a concern? I bet you don’t have any problems either way.
 
One thing I don't love about 35s is the lack of space between the tire and the strut. I often feel like I'm crawling around the tire with my back to the strut.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using SuperCub.Org mobile app
 
Alaska Airframes says that to go to 35s I would need to change out my master cyl and brake lines or maybe I misunderstood what needed to be changed to go with the 35s? Also they said the Beringer wheels are about 4 lbs lighter, per side, than the stock 10" wheels. I need new master cylinders anyway and would Beringer's work on my 31s I wonder? If they did then I could go 35s at any time. There is quite a weight penalty however (36 lbs more or so than my 31s). It would be nice to fly a set into a rough strip and feel and experience the difference over the 31s. I remember someone saying that going 35s over the 31s was like going from 850s to 31s. I don't know if that is true or not.
 
I'd go with 31s, as soon as you buy 35s the will come out with 42s. Weight make a great plane fly like crap as it adds up

Glenn
 
I am bias so be forewarned. Go look at the 5 or 6 cubs setting at Ultima Thule Lodge at an given time. They are all on 35's, they all regularly haul 2 passengers and gear.
They have 160hp cubs and 180hp cubs but they don't use 31" tires for a reason. It use to be a 31 weighed 30-31 pounds and a 35 weighed 39-40 pounds. I think they have gotten heavier (both) so it is probably still similar difference in weight between them. Weight is everything but getting in and out without breaking your airplane is higher on my list. You will never catch me on a 31, in fact I have a brand new set of the 31" radials from when they weighed 31 pounds if anyone is interested.
 
What are you running for gear? ASOS on a certified cub is a real game changer for both 31 and 35 in wheels, no more bounce.
DENNY
 
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