Turn Barrell size?

SJ said:

Hey folks, I have received quite a number of interesting emails about this thread I think it's time to move on as I believe we understand everyone's perspective.

Thanks.

sj

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Thank You

Assume a cable terminated with thimble and nicopress sleeve. If the sleeve compression is tested satisfactorily with a go / no-go gage, what is the likelihood of the sleeve slipping? Honest question - - -

Gordon Misch said:

Assume a cable terminated with thimble and nicopress sleeve. If the sleeve compression is tested satisfactorily with a go / no-go gage, what is the likelihood of the sleeve slipping? Honest question - - -

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It was always "a known"?? that a properly swaged sleeve is stronger than the cable is. Is that in writing anywhere? Years ago Bill Freeman at Freeman's Aviation in Griffin, GA would let you make your own cables and test them on his equipment if you bought the materials from him. I still make my own but use the gages and check for correct measurements

I had my J-5 professionally rebuilt with all new cables by certified mechanics - unfortunately two different companies because the first one went bust before the aircraft was finished. I collected the aircraft after a four year wait, did a conversion with the local instructor and was taxiing out to depart when I needed to brake, quite hard. The next thing, the aircraft was on its nose and my nice new prop had marked the tarmac! I called myself a lot of unprintable names as I had flown a few hundred hours in my J-3 and PA-18 without coming close to nosing over, ever. Then I saw the rudder cable. It had pulled right out of the nicopress sleeve so my foot had shot forward taking the heel brake with it. I guess no-one had tested those cables to 1200 lbs! Sobering


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Gordon Misch said:

Assume a cable terminated with thimble and nicopress sleeve. If the sleeve compression is tested satisfactorily with a go / no-go gage, what is the likelihood of the sleeve slipping? Honest question - - -

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Swaging an in-line sleeve fitting on a cable end would be something I'd want to test but most of us use a nicopress and thimble to terminate the cables. That doesn't concern me at all.






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Not knowing what turn barrels were, I just skipped this thread. I just skimmed to get the flavor. I bought my 1946 Cub in 1962, and it came with rudder turnbuckles. No note in the extensive logs about them having been added - I have always assumed they were supposed to be there. The aircraft had been covered twice, but interior, including seats, was original.

Who knew? Not me . . .

"Swaging an in-line sleeve fitting on a cable end would be something I'd want to test but most of us use a nicopress and thimble to terminate the cables. That doesn't concern me at all. "

Ditto. Use go/no go gauge and go......

Jack

Why two sleeves in a row on your cables Stewart? Just curious.. no point trying to be made..
I have always trusted one sleeve squeezed in the sequence defined by 43.13 as being stronger than the cable but have never tested it.
How about Oliver with his big machines again? I sure liked his test of the Dyneema fiber!

I think if you have a recently installed cable pull loose from rudder pressure while taxiing, then it probably was never squeezed in the first place. I've seen some pretty gawd-awful swedges on water-rudder cables that held with all the pilot could push..

46 Cub said:

I think if you have a recently installed cable pull loose from rudder pressure while taxiing, then it probably was never squeezed in the first place. I've seen some pretty gawd-awful swedges on water-rudder cables that held with all the pilot could push..

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I am just grateful I had to brake - otherwise it would have failed at a critical stage of flight sometime! I have had the whole lot re-done...

46 Cub

Some folks double the sleeves to get rid if the exposed wires from the original swage. ................ some just to "be sure". BUT if this is not done absolutely in line with the original it can produce an ugly "curve" or bend between the two sleeves. I prefer heat shrink tubing to smooth them out............. some don't like that because of a corrosion chance............. depends on what the airplane is gonna be exposed to. I have even wound stitching cord around them and then sealed with fabric adhesive for the "antique" look. I have never seen a failed cable (sleeve) that was properly swaged. The ones I have seen fail broke at the top of the thimble or at an abraded area. You can test them yourself if you have a long enuf beam or structure to take the load. .......... make an arm to hang weight on to multiply the load. Don't know if that is adequate for "documentation" purposes................. With a 1/8" cable there isn't an ice cubes chance in hell you could ever put any where close to a 2000# load on a cable thru a rudder pedal with your foot. The only reason 1/8 is used is to take the "springiness" out of the system.